5ktq inner CV joints were secured in place with 10mm triple square bolts when they left the factory. Anything different is an after-the-fact hack. 8mm TS and 10mm TS bolts have different diameters on the bolt shank. An 8mm TS will slip in and out of 10mm TS hole without threading.
And the end cutter tech-tip went out on the list a long while back. There isn't a big concern with cutting through the CV clamps with an end cutter until you've squeezed it together so much that the opposites sides are now touching, and kept squeezing really hard. None the less, I took a file to my set, as they were destined for special duty for the rest of their service life. No problem with nicking the clamps at all.
If anyone wants me to repost the write-up I did on rebooting CV joints, let me know. I know I forwarded it on to Huw, so it might be on his website...
HTH,
-Stott
-----Original Message-----
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk [SMTP:quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk]
Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 1998 3:27 PM
To: Mark.POLLAN@mci.com
Cc: quattro@coimbra.ans.net
Subject: Re: RF CV Boot job questions (5ktq)
In message <19980902172013.JIAB618@localHost> Mark Pollan writes:
>> 1. Must the entire axle be removed or is it possible to "weasle off" the outer
>> joint with the inner joint attached to the trans? (Seems to me I read a post
>> to that effect.) I have circlip pliers, how bad is it to get the joint off the
>> axle?
> You _can_ get the outer CVJs off but it is a bugger. The inner circlip
> is all greassy and quite strong so holding it apart while jockeying
> the half-shaft while trying to get the CVJ off (I used a big f#@*ing
> hammer and had a friend helping) while lying on your back.
> My recommendation - take the whole shaft off and and work leisurely at a bench.
I unhestitatingly agree with Mark. Take the half-shaft off, and you
can get a _much_ better swing with the incremental adjustment device.
> >2. If the inner joint does need to be removed, what is the size of the tool I
> >need? 12mm "triple square? Where best to obtain said socket?
>
> I believe it is a 10mm but can't swear to it. I bought them at a local
> foreign car parts place on a "card". Had 6mm, 8mm, 10mm and 12mm for
> $20. The manufacturer was CalVan Tools.
It's 8mm triple square. For some utterly bizarre reason, tool
manufacturers don't acknowledge that Audis use 8mm and 12mm triple
squares, and always label the packaging for "VW". Don't be put off by
this - VW prices are lower.
>> 3. Besides the "boot kit" what all other parts do I need to order? Axle nut?
>> (Does anyone besides Phil really replace these every time???) Inner CV Flange
>> seal? What else?
> If you take off the whole half-shaft the I would recommend replacing
> the gasket/seal. When you write flange, I read the metal flange that
> the inner CVJ bolts to. This you need not replace. The "boot kit"
> should have a new axle nut but the gasket/seal is separate.
I just picked up a wheel bearing for Roger Galvin's ur-quattro. It's
made by SKF - a Swedish company - and not by Audi. The packaging says
"Wheel bearing for Audi quattro". The box contains a wheel bearing
and an _Audi_ axle nut. Does that answer the question?
> >4. I have read several posts which state that end cutters will work to both
> >crimp the clamps and cut the excess...I assume this is so?
>
> I did not use end cutters to crimp the clamp back on. I was afraid
> of cutting it. I used ceramic tile nippers which look just like end
> cutters but are nowhere near as sharp. At least mine wre pretty dull
> perhaps from tile work but you get the meaning.
Bastard. I spent $$$ on "real" crimpers and I've just compared them
with my tile nippers, which cost ccc at a local DIY store. DAMN!
--
Phil Payne
Phone: 0385 302803 Fax: 01536 723021
(The contents of this post will _NOT_ appear in the UK Newsletter.)