Hitachi ECU problem: not starting engine...h2o

[gerard@dockside.co.za]

Hi!

I have a friend who is doing work on another sh*t condition
Audi 200 (1991) for another guy. This car has some burnt
out wiring, apparently (I haven't look, but he says it
has). The car came to him with the ECU disconnected and
it had been opened. Something was muttered to me about
water getting into the thing while in the car.

Anyway, to check to see if it was the wiring loom that
was faulty and not the ECU we put the ECU into my car
(a 1989/1990 200). Digital boost gauge readout on the
instrument cluster shows 1.0 bar at sea level when the
ignition is put on "2". Turning the key to start results
in the usual engine starting sound, but the thing just
doesn't catch and start. I didn't test for a spark.
Putting my ECU back in starts the thing up straight away.
Also, putting in my friend's ECU starts the car right
away ... with a very different sound (the box came from
a smashed 200 that had been dynotuned and reprogrammed,
the 2764 in the box has clearly been changed and hopefully
I will have this chip in my car within the next few weeks.
The original car apparently went like a bat outta hell,
people who did the tuning were Porsche enthusiasts and I'm
dying to get my hands into the thing. It all sounded alot
meaner than the stock number I have, and I assume boost
has been raised and timing advance with the assistance of
the dyno).

I'd just like some advice from anyone who has repaired a
MAC-11 type ECU. These cars use a MAC-13A, which is
similar to the MAC-11. What on the boards should be the
starting point for checking and what is the procedure?
I am having someone test the CPU tomorrow and see if he
can tell me if it is still working (I assume it is as the
car does try and start).

Thanks. :)

Regards,
Gerard.

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