Re: Cracks in firewall at clutch '85 4KQ

[Luis Marques <marques@rtis.ray.com>]

>         I have been going through the archives, found this post, and
> have a couple of questions if you have the time. Have you ever
> replaced the slave cylinder?
> How difficult is it? Does the transmission need to be removed? Any
> special tools needed? With this recent rain we have I hope it isn't
> that involved.

I'm afraid it isn't as simple as the master.  Although I haven't
personally changed the slave cylinder, I am familiar with the
procedure.  Basicaly, the slave cilinder is a round assembly thar goes
into a hole on top of the transmission ans is held in place by a hollow
pin that's about 1/4" in diameter.  There is a kind of L-shaped metal
pin/clip that goes into this pin and out to the back side of the tranny
that holds it in place.  You will have to first remove this L clip and
then push out the pin that holds the slave in place.  This may be easier
with some long extensions going thru the front fender.  

After this pin is out the slave should just pop out, but may need some
penetrating oil and some light taps to help it come out after rusting in
place for so many years.  Now is the perfect time to change the brake
hose that goes to the slave as well.  Put the new hose and slave in
place (with the piston compressed all the way in) , loosen the brake
fluid cap and make sure the reservoir is full. Open the bleed nipple
making sure it's facing up.  Let brake fluid come out while lightly
taping on the slave until there aren't any more bubbles and the fluid
coming out is clean and clear.  Close the nipple and reinsert into
tranny.  Reattach the pin and L clip, refill the brake fluid reservoir
and you are done.  You may need to pump the clutch a couple of times for
the slave to adjust its travel. If after this the clutch is still not
fully releasing, you will have to bleed the slave again. Good luck and
HTH.

Luis Marques
'87 4kcsq