Re: What car is the best buy?

["Fred Munro" <munrof@isys.ca>]

Jeff;

    I have developed a rust repair techique over the years which gives good
results.
    Sandblast the rusted area to bare metal and sandblast back to the
unrusted metal at the circumference of the spot. Feather-edge the paint
around the sandblasted area with 400 grit wet paper.
    Treat the bare metal with a phosphoric acid-based metal prep solution (I
use Dupont M3 Metalprep).
    Prime with an epoxy primer (I use Dupont Corlar)
    Prime again with a two part urethane filling primer ( I use Dupont
1044R).
    If you are using bodyfiller (heaven forbid!), apply it after the priming
is done. Bondo and it's ilk is not known for rust-resisting properties.
    Sand smooth with 400 grit wet paper (followed by 600 grit wet paper if
applying a clearcoat finish).
    Topcoat with matching colour. The new basecoat-clearcoat systems are
easy to use and to blend with the existing paint.
    I use wet-on-wet application techniques. You don't have to sand between
coats and you get a chemical bond (the paint systems have to be compatible).
    The success of the repair is in the primer system; the topcoat just
makes it look pretty.
    The galvanizing applied to this type of repair is a spray cold
galvanizing. It is basically a zinc-rich paint. It does not perform as well
as the hot galvanizing applied at the factory (a layer of molten zinc metal
applied to the surface of the steel). I personnaly do not use the zinc
spray, but it is recommended in the Audi procedure. IMHO it would only be
useful if the repair failed, and then you'd have to redo it anyway.
    Repairing the rust on the rear wheel wells takes special care. If it
shows up on the outside, it has usually progressed under the liner to the
bodymetal joint. If the rust gets a good footing in this joint, it is
extremely difficult to do a lasting repair. You have to remove the plastic
wheel well liner and sandblast the rusted area to bare metal. Prime as
described, and fill the joint with a sealing compound ( I use 3M Dripchek).
This type of rust failure is common to cars repaired in a bodyshop - if they
take the time to do it right, they won't make any money or would be deafened
by the screams of anguish when the customers saw the bill.
    I don't know of any qlisters in Winnepeg. You might try a general query
to the list to see if you get any replies.

HTH

Fred Munro
'91 200q  257k km

-----Original Message-----
From: Ron Mruss <rmruss@pangea.ca>
To: 'Fred Munro' <munrof@isys.ca>
Date: Saturday, September 12, 1998 1:11 PM
Subject: RE: What car is the best buy?


Fred,

Thanks for your e-mail.  Do you have any suggestions for repairing rust.
All I have is a few very small spots near the wheel wells.  At this point I
don't have the $$$ to have it done professionally (the car was repainted a
few years ago after an accident, although obviously not re-galvanized where
bodywork was done.  Do you know of any shops that can re-galvanize where
bodywork has taken place.

WRT later type 44 Audis, I have been telling my father that they are
supposed to be a lot more reliable and that he should consider buying one as
they are dirt cheap (considering what you're buying) and he needs another
car now that I have taken over his car.  He has gone from an unequivical
"Never" to a "maybe".  I think if I can continue working on him he may
consider it.  Unfortunately, all used Audis for sale around here seem to
have auto trans., but since my mother won't drive a standard this might
actually be a blessing.  She's never understood my father's love for his car
(until he got sick of repairing it that is) but I think if she could drive
one she might understand.

I guess I shouldn't complain that much about reliability problems either.
After all, I got my Audi dirt cheap as well and it's easily the nicest car
I've ever driven, although I did drive a Plymouth Turismo at one point, so I
don't suppose it's much of a comparison.

Thanks again,


Jeff Mruss

BTW do you know if there are any other Q-listers here in Winnipeg?