Re: brakes and lonnnng downhills

[Dan Simoes <dans@ans.net>]

> >> Anyway, my question concerns braking during the return trip, which as some
> >> of you know, is a 7-mile long drop from 6000 feet--all done at about 20-25
> >> mph with brakes working nearly full time.
> >
> >That's a good way to get killed.  You're supposed to descend the
> >mountain in low gear, touching the brakes when needed...
> 
> _What's_ a "good way to get killed", Dan?

Chill, I'm not picking on you.

You say above:
*** with brakes working nearly full time ***

*That's* a good way to get killed.  I stand by my statement.

> Of course I was in low gear and
> using the brakes just when needed.

Then that's a different story, isn't it?

> Maybe you've not descended Mt. Washington in 2+ tons of Audi.

Yes, as a matter of fact, I have, in both my 4kq, my CQ, and on my
K75s motorcycle, all at a pretty good clip (ask Jim Griffin :) ).  
Two years ago I literally had to cut off a moron
in an Escort who was riding his brakes all the way down the hill, 
all 4 wheels smoking like hell, totally oblivious to what was 
happening.

> And I stated
> that the brakes never heated enough to cause significant fade.

Like I said, ride the brakes all the way down and you won't make it
there.  There's a good reason why the hillclimb is run UPHILL
and not downhill, namely, no brakes can hold up to that kind of
treatment.

> At 20 mph I'd have thought it's not likely that ducting can be doing very
> much, could it? 

I would think so.

> Is there any adjustment available in the
> proportioning valve for this car? 

Yes there is.  It's a common cause for UFO brake gripe.  My mechanic
Greg maintains that a properly setup UFO car will outbrake a regular
setup and last just as long.

| Dan |
-- 
Dan Simoes                                dans@ans.net
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