Re: Powered mirrors

["Fred Munro" <munrof@isys.ca>]

Good post, Daniel. Glad you got your mirrors working! From what I recall
when I had mine apart, the newer power mirrors ('89 & up) use a different
drive system - two motors and no clutch.

Fred Munro
'91 200q  261k km
-----Original Message-----
From: Daniel Gervais <itpmtlplant@videotron.ca>
To: quattro@coimbra.ans.net <quattro@coimbra.ans.net>
Date: Wednesday, October 21, 1998 10:37 PM
Subject: Powered mirrors


>Last Weekend I finally got around to fixing my powered mirrors. I've had
>the car for about a year and a half now and lets say that other items were
>more pressing than mirrors (front suspension/sub frame bushings, front and
>back wheel bearings, rust and paint job, crankshaft/camshaft seal,timing
>belt and water pump)... hey now I know where I spend all my spare time. In
>any case if some of you are curious about the mirrors, here is some info.
>Once you get those darn mirrors off (thanks Fred ) you will see the mirror
>swivel mecanism. It is powered by four wires, two for the motor and two for
>the magnetic clutch wich decides wich of the planetary gears to engage. One
>set  for each type of movement. The motor is actually a mabuchy brand
>(sorry I cant spell) toy motor, in fact I repaired the motor brushes wich
>were corroded using a cheap motor lying around ( they were actually the
>same except for the shaft.  Of the four connectors on the backside of the
>unit , only the ones for the motor were corrode, they had in fact fallen
>off, and this for each mirrors.
>
>The heated mirrors are made with two aluminium plates wich overlap each
>other with a gap in between. This gap is filled with a block of resistive
>copper. A real simple neat way of doing things. The thing look out here is
>to have a good contact. By carefully lifting out the overlap portion
>slightly you can remove the copper block, clean it along with the internal
>sides of the gap. then to re-establish a good contact press down on the
>raised portion (you can try to raise it by inserting a small screwdriver in
>those two small holes while pressing down on the lip portion ) and then
>re-insert the  copper block. Audi put in this fiberbased tape , mine was
>not sticking anymore so I put in this hot melt glue to keep the block from
>ever falling out ( I guess ) .  Make sure you clean the aluminium tab
>connectors, aluminium corrodes in a white hard oxide while it may fool you
>in thinking its clean.
>
>Now the only thing that still doesn't work on the car are the heated seat,
>too bad winter is fast approching.
>
>Daniel Gervais
>86 Coupe
>Montreal Canada
>itpmtlplant@videotron.ca