Re: Public Thanks (Brake Rebuild 101)

[quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)]

In message <36469AF7.77DEFAA7@worldnet.att.net> ikessel@worldnet.att.net writes:

> BTW, Osman, I have a feeling that some of the steering wobble under
> braking on your car could have been attributed to the _horrendous_
> torque on the lug bolts and the distortion of the hub/brake disk.

I'd also suggest getting the wheels crack-tested.

> 1. Never ever use a 12-pointed sockets on something _this_ heavy duty,
> torqued to such a high torque. Use a 6-pointer _only_!

I wonder, quite seriously, if there's any point at all in owning
12-point sockets these days.  They were useful with old-style rachets
with 24 teeth but modern stuff is 72-tooth, usually engaging four teeth
at once.  My rachet now has better positioning resolution than a
12-point.

> > 4. Replace your stock rubber brake lines after 10 years. Just do it.
> > Mine were within 2 weeks of failure. Go SS, but make sure you buy the
> > proper lengths. Some of the kits may be too short.  Mine cost $88.00

If rubber lasts ten years, what's the advantage of SS?  I can't see that
it caused you, in particular, anything but grief.

> The rear e-brake levers _can_ be freed without the need to install the
> heavier duty Granada springs. In fact, my inability to get the said
> springs in the States turned out to be a blessing in disguise: I was
> forced to fix my own calipers. Whereas the springs with a higher module
> of torsional elasticity might overcome the friction of the rusted shafts
> in the e-brake levers, they would mask the problem rather than fix it.

I am doing a complete rebuild _and_ fitting the spring.

> The caliper is secured in a vise, the outer spring is removed, the 10mm
> turn-limiting bolt is removed and the frozen e-brake lever is lifted up
> by approx 10mm with a pry bar (it will not go higher).

A new turn-limiting bolt is shipped with the Granada springs.

> Spray the rusted shaft of the lever with a _very_ good rust
> loosener/lubricant ...

Any recommendations?

>> 3. New Boots for Guides all the way around.
>
> Half of all little rubber boots on the guide pins on Osman's car were
> torn. As a consequence, the respective guide pins (yokes) were
> completely dry and rusted solid. Since the yokes did not move the
> calipers stopped to float and as such had caused a very uneven wear on
> the brake pads. I freed the yokes, cleaned them out and lubricated,
> after which obtained a verbal commitment from Osman to replace them as
> soon as an opportunity presents itself.

I think this is a good idea anyway, every now and then - along with
re-greasing the pins.

With the pin boots in that state, I wonder that all the CV boots were
intact.

>> 4. New Bleeder Valves all the way around

This one ranks as a 120000 mile item, along with new adjuster screws
in the headlights.  New tip - when you get the new adjuster screws to
fit in the headlights, take one along to your tool merchant and get a
_perfectly_ fitting screwdriver.  Henceforth, dedicate this one tool to
this one job.

> > 10. Have a Quattro-repair buddy on speed dial for emergency advice.
>
> Osman, you were walking around with a camera documenting the procedure
> for a future web site - did you take a pic of me bleeding your brakes
> while wearing my hands-free head set with a 900Mhz clipped to the belt,
> with Mike Zamikhovsky on the phone instructing me to smack the hell out
> of your caliper with a hammer? With a bleeder in one hand and a hammer
> in the other, elbow-deep in brake fluid. :-)

What?  It wasn't _raining_?  You guys have it easy.

Actually, Roger Galvin is 25 minutes away by fast car, and 20 minutes
by quattro.  A 500 mile radius includes 98% of the UK's population
and some of France's, Belgium's and Holland's.

--
 Phil Payne
 Phone: 0385 302803   Fax: 01536 723021
 (The contents of this post will _NOT_ appear in the UK Newsletter.)