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Audi A6
Sorry guys, I'm new in this thing , where do I post my e-mail ?
I live in Greece and have just bought an A6 Quattro. Are there no A6s in
the States ?
I haven't seen anyone talking about that.
Regards
Thanos
-----Original Message-----
From: quattro-digest [SMTP:owner-quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net]
Sent: Friday, November 13, 1998 4:02 AM
To: quattro-digest@coimbra.ans.net
Subject: quattro-digest V4 #3070
quattro-digest Thursday, November 12 1998 Volume 04 : Number 3070
*
* Welcome to the digest version of the quattro list.
* See the end of the digest for unsubscribe info.
* In this issue:
Re: Tires for the A8
Ideas for industrious children....
Re: Wated: Quad Euro lights
ur-q parts needed - good place to find them?
RE: CQ PN# Requests?
Black or Platinum interior
RE: Ideas for industrious children....
Re: decals
FS: 89 200T, to good home.
Tires [S8 and other questions]
Re: Euro lights/springs
Re: '84 5kCD repair costs
Re: 4kq Gauge
Re: G60 Caliper Piston Removal
Coupe GT R.I.P.
QRe: FS: 89 200T, to good home.
RE:Away for the winter
Re:
Delta radio for 89 200TQ
Re: Tires [S8 and other questions]
Re: Brake pads for G60 Calipers
Re: Parts Microfiche
Where is T1 connector on 4kq?
New 2.5" Dynomax on 4kq!
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 18:25:23 EST
From: Thespian88@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tires for the A8
I've heard that Michelin MXV4s are good replacements.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 15:25:49 +0100
From: Sargent Schutt <sargent@novagate.com>
Subject: Ideas for industrious children....
A police officer had a perfect hiding place for watching for speeding Audi
drivers (Mandatory Audi Content).
But one day, everyone was under the speed limit, until the officer found
the
problem: a 10 year old boy was standing on the side of the road with a huge
hand painted sign which said "RADAR TRAP AHEAD."
A little more investigative work led the officer to the boy's accomplice,
another boy about 100 yards beyond the radar trap with a sign reading
"TIPS"
and a bucket at his feet, full of change.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 23:24:03 GMT
From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)
Subject: Re: Wated: Quad Euro lights
In message <19981112221954.22259.qmail@hotmail.com> "Mike Del Tergo"
writes:
> I've gone 80/100 H4 & 100W H1. Got my relAys&harness from Competition
> Limited for about $60. Both advertise in the US based car mags. Can
> find the #'s if not. You can also bridge the lights so on high beam,
> both H4 filiments and H1's light up. In my case 560W. I have no
> illumination probs!
Or you can just use 100/170 H4s to start with, and get 540 watts that's
even better focussed.
- --
Phil Payne
Phone: 0385 302803 Fax: 01536 723021
(The contents of this post will _NOT_ appear in the UK Newsletter.)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 15:33:57 -0800 (PST)
From: c a l i b a n <caliban@sharon.net>
Subject: ur-q parts needed - good place to find them?
i need the lifters for the trunk lid - otherwise
i'll keep getting my head whacked as it falls on
me! used ones would be fine (someone with a wrecked
coupe? ;) though new would be ok. is this the kind
of thing the parts connection would be good for?
also, i am going to start running better wires for
running lights, etc. what should i use - i'd like
to go with *overkill* rather than adequate. it's
an erk, after all.
- --
rocky mullin
http://caliban.sf.ca.us/
'83 ur-q - yamaha rz350 - suzuki ts250 - chaotic good
this message was composed using the vi editor.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 15:38:48 -0800
From: "Daily,DerekSJMCG" <DDaily@sjmcb.mitsui.com>
Subject: RE: CQ PN# Requests?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk
[SMTP:quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk]
>
> Any arythm means they're not _all_ clacking.
>
[Daily,DerekSJMCG] If all 20 were clacking, would I know? Seems the
engine
would simply be smoothly "loud" in that case. Could I actually discern
whether or not they were clacking? Cynical of course, but is it possible
for ALL to clack?
> The official procedure is to run the engine until the radiator fan
> has run twice. Remove the cam cover, turn each cylinder in turn to
> TDC (firing) when the lobes are uppermost. Press on the lifter with
> something made of WOOD or PLASTIC - more than 0.1mm movement before the
> valve starts to open is a failure.
[Daily,DerekSJMCG] This was certainly not possible. First, because I
would
guess the motor had not been running for at least 2 weeks. Second, part of
the restoration involved replacing the rad fan motor. Not likely to turn
on
if it's not there (or non-functioning). (I've since considered the
screwdriver HANDLE was likely used to depress the lifter).
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 15:51:51 -0800
From: "Lewis, Gary M" <Gary.Lewis@West.Boeing.com>
Subject: Black or Platinum interior
Hi Audifans,
I need a black or platinum leather interior for an 88 5000 turbo/or TQ.
What I need is:
Dash,
Center console
Door Panels
Back seat
All the pillar trim
What I don't need;
Carpet,
Front seats,
Headliner.
I'm not sure what years would fit the 1988, i.e., 86 - 88, or would an 84
or
85 fit?
I can probably get the interior on my own here in Los Angeles, but was
wondering if anyone had this stuff laying around and wanted to get rid of
it
cheap. What I will most likely do is find a $500 5000t w/blown tranny and
do the swap, sell the stuff I don't want, and maybe break even. So if you
have a nice interior cheap I'd rather buy it straight out than go thru the
hassle of a part out job.
thanks,
Gary Lewis
88 5kcstq 0.0 bar 108km Pearl w/Fuchs
86 5Kcst 5sp 1.8 Bar 200km Sapphire
TransGlobal Financial (818) 384-7600
Mergers, Acquisitions, Public Offerings
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 16:14:19 -0800
From: "Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>
Subject: RE: Ideas for industrious children....
> But one day, everyone was under the speed limit, until the officer found
> the
> problem: a 10 year old boy was standing on the side of the road with a
> huge
> hand painted sign which said "RADAR TRAP AHEAD."
>
> A little more investigative work led the officer to the boy's accomplice,
> another boy about 100 yards beyond the radar trap with a sign reading
> "TIPS"
> and a bucket at his feet, full of change.
>
I've been tempted to do this myself on occasion when I find the REOs out in
force ... if and when I do so I will offer my services for free ... :-)
It seems to me I recall reading in the paper where some like-minded person
himself was hassled by the REOs once they found that he was hurting
business
... probably got him for loitering or some such.
... sure let's you know what their real motivation is, doesn't it ... they
always state that they do it for safety reasons. If that were the case,
the
guy with the sign should do a better job in slowing folks down in general
...
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 16:15:21 -0800
From: tsal2@juno.com (Timothy C Salazar II)
Subject: Re: decals
If he doesn't want them, I sure do!!!
Love, Like, or Just Plain Tolerate,
Timothy
`86 CGT
`82 Coupe (R.I.P.)
On Thu, 12 Nov 1998 14:23:48 PST "Mike Del Tergo" <mdeltergo@hotmail.com>
writes:
>Dan,
>Dealer list for the UrQ rings is $90 @ side. About $15 @ for the
>trunk
>decals. I have a set of the silver rings (vs dark for light cars) for
>
>dark colored cars. If those are the ones you want let me know.
>Mike
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 16:16:02 -0800
From: "Scott Spangenberg" <scotts@utm.net>
Subject: FS: 89 200T, to good home.
Divorce forces the sale of my Audi
89 200T fwd
188k
Auto, full leather interior, sport seats, sun roof, ABS, airbag, trip
computer, phone, radar detector, etc.
This car sold for $35K when new. (I have the window sticker, Audi color
brochures etc.)
Platinum color
8/10 exterior
9/10 interior
2nd owner since new
Located in San Diego, CA
Recent work:
New tires
New plugs, rotor, cap, wires
New heater core & blower motor, vent. flap spring
a/c compressor replaced
New timing belt
New water pump
....I have a complete service/parts log (.xls) that I can email to you.
Every service record since car was new.
I was planning on keeping this car for several more years and have
consistently invested in its upkeep and maintenance.
$4400/offer
email privately to:
scotts@utm.net
Scott Spangenberg
89 200T, going
85 5ks, gone
79 5ks, gone
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 19:12:16 -0500
From: "Bruce Aukerman" <Bruce@mannlawfirm.com>
Subject: Tires [S8 and other questions]
The Cooper brand is inexpensive and will last
for a long time, too long imho:)
On the tires for the S8 question? Just my view, but why not put some =
really nice rubber on that car? You worked hard for the money to buy the =
car, enjoy it the way it should drive, not the way it does drive.
"All-season" is really a catchy misnomer thought up by marketing. Really,
=
it should be "no-season". I have driven on many "all-season" tires and, =
frankly, I understand the purchase only due to cost and maybe for your =
mom's dodge.
With what you paid for the S8 [sweet ride], tire cost should not be a =
concern. Use your rims for summer tires of the SP 8000 variety, buy =
steel rims with a good winter tire, Hakka's, etc. The performance of both
=
will shock you. Put you more in touch with the road, which, after all, is =
why you bought what you bought. Right? :)
Bruce
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 19:30:54 -0500
From: Todd Joseph <todd@ConnActivity.ConnActivity.com>
Subject: Re: Euro lights/springs
>As for Eibach/Boge TG, I don't think you or your wife will find the ride
>at all objectionable. I have H+R's, Boges, and 16" wheels, and live in
>the pothole belt with no problems.
I have a quote for Boge TG, parts and labor for $550, which near as I
can tell sounds reasonable. How much more for Eibach springs? This
is for my '89 200tq.
Todd
todd@connact.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 16:36:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Frog Foot <frogf00t@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: '84 5kCD repair costs
- ---Andrei Kogan <abk@phy.duke.edu> wrote:
>
> At 08:47 PM 11/12/98 GMT, you wrote:
> >I've found an advertisement for an '84 5kCD. (No, not diesel)
> >It was really cheap, although it needed some repairs.
> >I'll list them here, can you Audi-Gods out there tell me if it is
> >expensive? (Probably some strange words in my translation, I'm not so
> >good in english)
> >
> >* Worn out brake discs in front
>
> guessing $40-50 +labor (us prices) fairly easy to do yourself
Ok, I paid 54$ a peice and 35 dollars for the pads, I put these on my
self and found one of my bleeder valves to be clogged with crap, so I
called around and the lowest I could get for bleeder valves were $.49
cents (us dollars)
>
> >* Dangerous cracks in brake hoses
>
> about the same
no problems on mine. but I called on replacement costs and they were
58 bux per wheel. but I bet I can get cheaper if I look.
>
> >* Worn out (?) steering rack (Pretty common?)
>
> the biggest ticket item here
>
> >* Worn out CV joint (?) outer left front
>
> $100 + 2 hours labor, a bit of a PITA
PITA? .. I havent checked on this yet, but I have the same problem.
can someone explain how this problem comes about? and explain what's
involved a little in repair, cause I can do this my self if I can,
hence. what would i need to do to repair this..
or is it better off repaired at the shops?
>
> >* Worn out bushings in rear subframe
>
> dunno, guessing $200
>
> >* Exhaust leak
>
> Cracked EM? 2nd biggest tikcet item, otherwise no big deal
>
>
> >* Locks/door handles (Common..)
>
> roughly $50/door + labor
can I repair a broken door handle .. the symtom is :
if you push the handle in at the right angle it works properly.
otherwise your yankin for your life :) ..
I paid 50$ for a door handle for a 86 ford mustang, DEALER cost, with
a 10% discount and it's not nearly as complex as the audi door
handles. should I get a used door handle to repair this or am I better
off with new?
>
> >* Oil leaking from steering rack
> see above
> >In addition some minor stuff like rear power windows don't work,
light
> >bulbs etc.
I only have 1 windows that doesnt roll down, at least I'm not sure why
yet... the windows are all controled from the drivers side door. the
controls on the other doors simply don't work, but they still light up
which is nice :) .. can this be easly repaired?
the back window on the drivers side doesnt roll down, and I'm not sure
why yet.. I plan on redoing the electrical system sometime soon.
so I'm gonna check it out.
>
> maybe, another $200?
>
>
> >This car is very cheap, and I can (hopefully) afford to fix it up. Is
> >is cosmetically in great shape. I can fix the exhaust and other minor
> >things myself, but I'll leave steering and brakes to people who know
> >how to fix it.
actualy I would do the breaks on your own, it's not difficult at all,
just make sure you have something to squeeze the calipers one motion
at a time, it also has to be large enough to grip the outside and the
piston..
if you have NO idea what I'm talking about, I have a manual on how to
do it, that I can scan a graphic and draw in some call out's for ya..
trust me all you need is some minor socket wrench sizes. hell I wish I
wrote the sizes down, possibly a pair of plyers (to loosen the bleeder
valves enoung to remove them. (which can be done after you mount the
wheel back.. (tip there) ..
I did my pads/disk's in about 2 hours. and my girlfreind bitched at me
the whole time cause she had no faith in me.. now the car will sqeal
to a stop and scare the hell out of old ladies walking across streets.
best breaks I'v had in a while.. my subaru's breaks went out a month
after I drove it off the lot. audi breaks are well made.. and easy to
replace.
If you have an AUTOZONE or simular, they stock these parts sometimes.
other then that. it's fairly simple. .. there is electrical wires
involved with my breaks tho.. I guess a wear sensor that is embedded
into the pad and runs up to something or other, I didnt have time to
research this info. so I just cut it.. :) I don't need to know when my
breaks are worn out with a light bulb.
==
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------
Steve Berry
Located in wonderfull downtown Taylor, Michigan
(A)bort, (R)etry, R(i)nse, R(e)peat... [ ]
frogf00t@yahoo.com (remember f00t uses zeros!)
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 18:41:37 -0600
From: ejfluhr@austin.ibm.com (Fluhr)
Subject: Re: 4kq Gauge
>> that's a different story. I have a spare instrument cluster from a
>> 84 4KQ, but it's clock is dead too... :)
>What is with these clocks? I've owned several 4ks and none of their
>clocks worked. Okay, one did, but it was intermittent and really didn't
>keep time in the canonical sense :).
If you are referring to the analog clock at the bottom of the
tachometer, then you should check the power connection at the back
of the instrument cluster. The clock in my Coupe GT stopped working
and I traced it to a poor connection with the flexible circuit
boad. This connection is the "special" little screw on the backside
of the tachometer that goes through the circuit board. I cleaned this
connection up and added a washer to ensure that it makes contact and
I haven't had a problem since.
Later,
Eric
'85 CGT, '82 urq
- ---
Eric J. Fluhr Email: ejfluhr@austin.ibm.com
630FP Logic/Circuit Design Phone: (512) 838-7589
IBM Server Group Austin, TX
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 19:52:32 -0500
From: Bob <mx@snet.net>
Subject: Re: G60 Caliper Piston Removal
ANDREW FINNEY wrote:
> How does one remove the pistons from a G60 caliper, with compressed air?
> If only one comes out, how do you remove the second one? Any BTDTs on
> the list would be appreciated. Thanks.
Careful extraction by hand will eventually work, but its a little tough.
Compressed air will work, but BE CAREFUL!!!!! An easy way to break fingers,
even with low pressure/ low volume!
(almost BTDT!)
If one comes out, you can easily block the open port with your hand to get
the other one out.
Hth (but I doubt it!)
Bob
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 17:53:15 -0700 (MST)
From: Aaron Pratt <apratt@selway.umt.edu>
Subject: Coupe GT R.I.P.
Gentlemen:
The 1987.5 Coupe GT 2.3 that I have lovingly restored and maintained over
the past 2 1/2 years has perhaps seen it's last day. While driving back
to college from Helena to Missoula, Montana on Tuesday, a 16 year-old girl
ran a stop sign and I t-boned her going about 40 mph. The grill, right
headlight, hood, both front quarter panels, and the entire passengers side
are crumpled. My first estimate for repairs was $6500, and I am awaiting
my second estimate.
My fear is that the girl's insurance company is going to come
back with a low-ball offer of about $2K, which is probably the 'book
value' of the car. I paid $3800 for the car in 1996 with 76K miles. I
thought it was an absolute steal considering the pristine condition of the
body and interior. I have kept *every* receipt for maintenance and
improvements during the time I've owned it, and have all the receipts from
the original owner as well. By the time I tallied everything I've put
into the car, excluding regular maintenance, I'm in it over $7500. It was
truly the nicest GT I've ever seen.
The questions I put to all of you are these:
1. How do I convince her insurance company that this is indeed a rarer
version of the Coupe GT (which I took 6 months to find), and that it's
value is perhaps far higher that 'book' considering it's rarity, pristine
condition, and the improvements made to it. Any information you all have
concerning the difficulty in obtaining a 2.3 GT or it's relative rarity
would be helpful.
2. Do I repair the Coupe if they give me enough money, or do I go in
search of another GT as good of condition (a daunting task, indeed), or do
I look for another Audi and try to forget my beloved Coupe in which I have
invested so much time, money, and care. As it sits in the lot behind the
repair shop, it seems to be calling out to be made new again and not to be
given up on. My attachment to this car has surprised even me.
Any advice from you concerning how to proceed to maximize my chances of a
larger settlement for what I consider (perhaps biasedly) a rare gem of a
car or advice on whether to repair or abandon the Coupe would be greatly
appreciated.
Thank you all in advance.
Aaron L. Pratt
1987.5 Coupe GT 2.3 'Special Build'
Black over Mouse Fur with the Tokyo-by-Night dash.
apratt@selway.umt.edu
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 16:57:14 -0800
From: "Scott Spangenberg" <scotts@utm.net>
Subject: QRe: FS: 89 200T, to good home.
Thanks for the response, John.
I'm certainly willing to negotiate the price with anyone that is interested
in buying it. You're right about the miles being high, I think that the
service records I mentioned might reassure some Q-lister's of its
condition.
I was interested in V8's earlier this year for the very reason you
mentioned -- they're not holding their value. I learned from the list that
one reason is the very high cost of parts and labor to repair them.
Luckily
I didn't get one because I'd be trying to sell it instead of the 200T!
My thinking is that my 89 shares components and systems with the other 5
cylinder years, and they are less expensive to fix than the V8's.
The Qlist probably isn't the best venue to get the highest price for my
car,
because we're all looking for that one Quattro that's been forgotten in
someone's garage with only 12,000 miles on it!
However, it's in my best interest to get my message out to as many people
as possible, including the Qlist.
My belief is that if someone is looking for an exceptionally clean and well
maintained Audi, we can always agree on a price!!!
Regards,
Scott Spangenberg
scotts@utm.net
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Karasaki <johkar@teleport.com>
To: Scott Spangenberg <scotts@utm.net>
Date: Thursday, November 12, 1998 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: FS: 89 200T, to good home.
>Sorry to hear about the reason for the sale. I thought I would mention,
>however, that your price is a bit high for a non-quattro with that many
>miles regardless of condition.
>
>As a point of reference, I could have bought a 1990 V8 quattro last week
>with 180k miles and in excellent shape for $5100.
>
>If you are not familiar with the V8 quattro, it was Audi's flagship and
>cost over $50k when new. Much more car than the 200T.
>
>The point is, everyone but the most dedicated enthusiast is totally afraid
>of that kind of mileage. Heck, when we were trying to sell our '87 5000CS
>turbo fwd with <140k miles four years ago, people were scared of that
level
>of miles!
>
>I wish you luck. If you do sell it, please let the list know what it goes
>for. Maybe the market is getting better for these things...
>
>HTH.
>
>At 04:16 PM 11/12/98 -0800, you wrote:
>>Divorce forces the sale of my Audi
>>
>>
>>
>>89 200T fwd
>>188k
>>Auto, full leather interior, sport seats, sun roof, ABS, airbag, trip
>>computer, phone, radar detector, etc.
>>This car sold for $35K when new. (I have the window sticker, Audi color
>>brochures etc.)
>>Platinum color
>>8/10 exterior
>>9/10 interior
>>2nd owner since new
>>Located in San Diego, CA
>>
>>Recent work:
>>
>>New tires
>>New plugs, rotor, cap, wires
>>New heater core & blower motor, vent. flap spring
>>a/c compressor replaced
>>New timing belt
>>New water pump
>>....I have a complete service/parts log (.xls) that I can email to you.
>>
>>Every service record since car was new.
>>
>>I was planning on keeping this car for several more years and have
>>consistently invested in its upkeep and maintenance.
>>
>>$4400/offer
>>
>>email privately to:
>>
>>scotts@utm.net
>>
>>Scott Spangenberg
>>
>>89 200T, going
>>85 5ks, gone
>>79 5ks, gone
>>
>>
>>
>>
>Best Regards,
>
>John Karasaki
>Portland, OR
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 19:57:59 -0800
From: Timothy Penasack <TPenasack@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE:Away for the winter
Here is what I did with my GTI when I went to the Persian Gulf to play in
the sand for about 8 months. Drove into my parents driveway. Pulled the
car as far over to the left as possible. Turned the car off, locked the
car, left the keys with Dad as well as a check for the car cover once it
comes in and left. Came back 8 months later (Sept through March), started
it up and drove away. No battery drains problems, no flat spots, no
smells, no guests in the exhaust.
- -Gave the car to my brother in law 2 years later. It know has 270k miles
on
it and the engine is still running strong.
Tim
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 19:57:15 -0500
From: Bob <mx@snet.net>
Subject: Re:
Stuart Friedman wrote:
> Winter storage procedures I last used on my 2002;
>
> Try to run out as much of the fuel as possible,add some gas stabilizer
> (Stabil) to the tank, run it another minute or so, shut it down (Stabil
is
> available at any small engine shop).
oooohhhhh boy. I would fill the tank as much as possible and add Stabil.
This
prevents condensation and rust come springtime.
>
>
> Pull the plugs, squirt a tsp of motor oil into each cylinder, replace
plugs.
For winter storage it may not be worth it, but it certainly helps. If its
more
than 5 or 6 months go for it. Less than that, just start it once in a while
if
possible.
>
>
> Pull the battery, make sure you know the radio code if applicable
>
> Carefully elastic band some paper, not plastic over the tailpipe, keeps
the
> rodents out.
>
Good advice!
> Some advocate pulling the wheels/tires outting it on blocks. Never seemed
> to be worth the trouble to me.
>
Yeah, i used to do that, then I figured it wasnt really worth all the
hassle.
Only until my SP8000's did I never have a problem with that.
> Close the doors on the first catch, leaving the pressure off of the
rubber
> ( I am not convinced this matters, after all the doors would be closed
> 99.99% of the time if you were running it, but what the hell!)
>
Will rodents get in?(reminds me of a story in AutoWeek some time ago....
Lexus
was testing the air tightness of their new cars. They would put a cat in
the car
and if the cat was dead the next day, the car was airtight. Chrysler
following
suit put a cat in the car... the next day the cat was gone!!)
Bob
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 04:57:41 -0800
From: Western Data Com <tm2@earthlink.net>
Subject: Delta radio for 89 200TQ
My radio does not work in my 89 200TQ last month. If anyone has radio
reasonably priced) they would like to part with please E-mail me.
My radio is a Delta made by Blauunkt
Thanks
Pat Korach
Seattle, WA.
E-Mail: TM2@earthlink.net
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 17:26:29 -0800 (PST)
From: c a l i b a n <caliban@sharon.net>
Subject: Re: Tires [S8 and other questions]
On Thu, 12 Nov 1998, Bruce Aukerman wrote:
:|"All-season" is really a catchy misnomer thought up by marketing.
Really, it should be "no-season". I have driven on many "all-season"
tires and, frankly, I understand the purchase only due to cost and maybe
for your mom's dodge.
the real problem for many of us is dual-driving. i live
in the bay area but plan to be in tahoe every weekend.
i want something that will be better than a sport
tire int9e snow, but won't drive like mashed potatos in
the dry and rainy bay area, going to work, etc etc.
i want to be better than average in snow, and decent
on dry. anything more than that is bonus.
- --
rocky mullin
http://caliban.sf.ca.us/
'83 ur-q - yamaha rz350 - suzuki ts250 - chaotic good
this message was composed using the vi editor.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 20:31:04 EST
From: AZIZREGCC@aol.com
Subject: Re: Brake pads for G60 Calipers
Try 2Bennett. They have 3 options for conversions for the V8, 1) 12"
Brembo
rotor with custom hat and gerling calipers 2&3) 13" and 14" four piston
caliper options. They also have a web site.
Good luck.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 20:36:03 -0500
From: Richard Beels <beels@technologist.com>
Subject: Re: Parts Microfiche
Goto Carlsen Porsche+Audi (Palo Alto) and ask nicely at the parts desk.
At 07:06 PM 11/12/1998 , Harrison Blackwood was inspired to say:
>
> Does anyone know a resource where I could buy a personal copy of the
> parts microfiche for a 90 CQ. I believe there was a post a few months
> ago on this.
Cheers,
Richard
88 90Q "Hannu" - K+N, new vac hoses, still 0.0 bar....
88 Golf GTi - PRO Rally
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 17:45:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Todd Phenneger <phen9461@uidaho.edu>
Subject: Where is T1 connector on 4kq?
OK,
If you are reading this you may already know what I want. Car is
87' 4kcsq. Connector T1 is the Power Junction for the REar and Mirror
Defrosters. My switch is fine but now power to back and no defrost
anywhere. Fuse is fine. I am guessing this connector is loose. Bently
gives location as "Engine Compartment, Right" Oh, that helps a lot. How
bout saying the Needle is in the haystack on the left there! :)
ANyhow, if you know where this is "preferably exactly where" then
I would REALLY appriciate it. I have no defrost and would like to be able
to see out the back in the mornings. L8R
Todd Phenneger
1984 4000s quattro / modified/ awaiting Turbo Transplant.
1985 4000 quattro / Silver / Fixing it Up.
1987 4000cs quattro / Saphire Metallic Blue/ Girlfriend's
1996 A6q / Volcano / Dads Car
*****1985 5kt / PARTING OUT!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 17:53:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Todd Phenneger <phen9461@uidaho.edu>
Subject: New 2.5" Dynomax on 4kq!
Just did it yesterday.
Put a 2.5" Dynomax Super Turbo muffler on the 4kq. Front
resonator is currently gone but I may put one in there, or maybe a
resonated tip.
Sound is quiet at Freeway and other partial throttle speeds (At
least its quieter than the car!) and burbles nicely at idle. Gets loud
and cool when you get on it. However, it is a little raspier than the
2.5" Borla on my other 4kq. I like the Borla better better for sound
quality but for an everyday driver the Dynomax is better since it quiets
down at Highway speed and around town. Borla is louder on the Gas to.
I will soon have a BTDT for Dual Borla's if anyone is interested.
Friends Dad is going this route on his car. SHould sound nice.
Muffler cost me $30 from Super SHops. Hightly recomended place to
get stuff. This is the Exact same muffler most shops charge $79 or so
for. Supershops just buys them in lots of 1,000 units. (WOW) ANyhow,
their prices are great, $5 handling fee only (REad no shipping) for all
orders under a certain weight. Had a local Hi Performance Muffler shop,
(REad custom, this is the same place that did the system witht he Borla on
my other car and the same place that made a custom Exhast Manifold and
downpipe for my friends Rabbit GTI that now has a TURBO in it)... ANyhow,
they did it for $40 installed with 2.5" Aluminized piping going out the
back. Still have to do the rest of the system up front but not enough
money in the bank for now.
Just thought somebody might want this info. L8R
Todd Phenneger
1984 4000s quattro / modified/ awaiting Turbo Transplant.
1985 4000 quattro / Silver / Fixing it Up.
1987 4000cs quattro / Saphire Metallic Blue/ Girlfriend's
1996 A6q / Volcano / Dads Car
*****1985 5kt / PARTING OUT!
------------------------------
End of quattro-digest V4 #3070
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