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Fender rolling method?



Snip>>>>>
i know this was covered in a very good post about a year ago, but i just

searched through the archives, and i really cant find it.

I am debating on whether to get 15x8 ronal R8's or 15x7 Fuchs and if i
go
with the ronals, i need to roll the rear fenders.  The thing is that: 1.

im scared to mess up the outside of the fender, 2. i dont have much
money
to have someone else to do it, 3. i dont want to mess up the outside of
the fender.....

So, does anyone have on file that old post about rolling the fender, and

also, anyone with experience, how easy is it to mess this up and ruin
the
fender itself?

And also, if i have a bodyshop do it, how much would i expect it to
cost?
Snip>>>>>>>>

Michael,

I did a lot of research into this subject two years ago when I had my
UrQ stripped to bare metal and repainted. The conclusion was that it is
not worth it unless you get it done from Max at AVS who has a very
expensive "official" tool to do the rolling. He wants a lot of money for
the operation. There are listers that have dented their fenders using
the baseball bat method. My body shop told me they wouldn't do it, there
was too likely a chance of ruining the sheet metal. That fender lip is a
very thick serious component of the body integrity. I didn't want to
have to place a lot of bondo to revive the panels. If you want fat tires
on your UrQ go with a 7.5 inch or 8 inch wheel with a 35mm offset. I'm
going with Compomotives. I have a survey of listers' tire and wheel
combos and when I finally get back to my office from my field assignment
I will repost it to the list. My advise, stay away from fender rolling.
The factory appears to have rolled the lips before welding, not
afterwards. Also, it is my opinion that although the Fuchs look great,
they don't do any more than the 6" Ronals to fill the wheel wells. HTH.

Andrew Finney
1983 UrQ.