Re: PS pump check valves removal problem

[Phil and Judy Rose <pjrose@servtech.com>]

Well, that's crossed my mind, but these valve threads have spent their
lives soaking in mineral oil. There's no corrosion showing externally, and
it's hard to imagine any being on the threads. But I might just give it a
try anyway since there's possibly corrosion just beneath the head of the
bolt. The real problem is that a 4mm Allen key is a pretty wimpy way to
apply torque.

Phil

>Doesn't anyone use the rust buster stuff that comes in the aerosal cans??
>These nuts/bolts can't be any worse than those on my boat trailer which is
>used in salt water! True- you have to start treating (wire brush& spray for a
>few days before you want to do the work, but it does make things a lot easier.
>Frank Santoro
>1990 V8(for sale)
>1998 A8
>
>I got the same advice (use impact wrench) from Igor, too. So I just went
>out and replaced the Allen socket and have managed to get the new one
>twisted pretty good after 4 or 5  whacks using the impact wrench and my
>BM(*) hammer (sledge). It seems the new socket will soon break by this
>method also, and the check valve shows no sign of moving.
>
>It's a Pep Boys Allen socket. Is that the problem? Do I need better
>quality? I suspect that the Allen key shafts are about 2x longer than
>necessary in these sockets. Maybe a shorter length would twist a bit less.
>Other suggestions?


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