Re: WTB: 89 200 tqw owner's manual

[Ssgacc@aol.com]

In a message dated 99-03-07 09:36:27 EST, you write:

<< What did you use to clean the engine and its compartment?  I would 
 like to clean mine but have heard horror stories about electronics and 
 other things not working right after doing so.
  >>
I have heard this as well but I honestly have never had a problem except with
a 93 dodge Shadow that stalled at the carwash bay once.  Turns out the plug
wire wasn't seated all the way and water got in the dist. cap.  Little WD-40
under the cap and it was O.K.  I have done this 300+ times in the last 20
years and only that one time did a car stall.  Maybe five times they ran rough
for 5-10 minutes at and just off idle.  This was always because the secondary
ignition system was suspect.  Here's what I do.  Go to U-Wash-It bay with
WD-40 and Gunk Foamy Engine Degreaser.  Engine should be warm, not real hot.
I spray all electrical connector and plugs and wires with the WD-40.  I really
hose them down.  Then I spray all the grease, oil, and crud build-up with the
degreaser.  I usually let it work for about ten minutes.  Then I start the car
and use the high pressure wash and then rinse to wash the engine.  I try not
to spray directly on the plug wires, distributor, coil, etc.  At least not
until I KNOW they are good.   After washing I drive it around for a while
(10-15 mins.) until it's dried out.  When I get back to the shop I go through
the electrical connectors, plug wires, cap, etc.  Nothing should have much
water in it.  If it does, something is wrong so check the boot or connector
for damage.  Then I blow them out with compressed air and put a good dab of
the Permatex Silicone based Dielectric Grease right on the terminals and
reconnect.  After doing this procedure once or twice I can spray the high
pressure hose right on the connectors or distributor cap and I get NO water in
them, and no functional problems.  I've heard stabilant is great, but the cost
is quite high for me.  I think this siilicone is great, and only costs about
$2-3 for a small tube.  
All the manufacturers are using this on their connnectors now and I haven't
seen electrical problems much since the late 80's/early 90's.
Disclaimer:  These chemicals are FLAMMABLE!  You are at a water hose when you
use these so you shouldn't have a problem, but don't spray them directly onto
a hot exhaust manifold.

Jim Accordino
p.s.-you'll be amazed how much easier it is to troubleshoot when you can
actually see the components, connectors, hoses, etc. on the engine