NE Tech day wrench notes/observations

[Peter Schulz <schulz@ed.ray.com>]

 I spent some time last weekend helping folks perform TB 
 jobs at Chris Miller's in NH. (Since I have had to take 
 my TQW TB of a total of three  times 1. loose oil pump 
 bolts, 2. broken idler bolt. 3. phantom oil leak-suspect 
 crank sea--I was one of the more err-experienced wrenches)
 ("don't do that, this will happen..."   ;-)
 
 Some quick Observations: TB belt/idler/H20 pump appears to 
 be alot  easier to do on a 200 20V, once you take the IC out.
 The tubular support above the IC allows plenty of Crank 
 Pulley access-more than on a 5kQ, and easier than a 4kQ.
 
 Removing the metal shield behind the TB to more easily
 access the the H2O pump w/o bending it (shield) is
 easily done by removing the upper TB cover stud on the
 5kQ/200.
 
 On the 4KQ, the cam gear needs to be removed before
 the crank pulley to do the same...
 Two jobs required some mechanic magic to do the same
 after the crank was removed (old timing belt and visegrips)
 
 The replacement crank seal appears to be sensitive to
 the crank key slot - 4 of the 5 TBs need to have the
 seal replaced twice.  Chris had purchased the 3203 seal
 remover from Zelenda, and we experimented with an installer
 that we created with a 1.5 inch of PVC pipe, first using
 a hammer, then using a large washer and crank bolt for
 more controlled installation. (since then I purchased a
 used 2080A installer for $8 from Zelenda)
 
 Finding the flywheel timing mark is easy, once you know
 where to look for the slot-But there is still room within
 the slot window for variation.
 
 The 200 20V distributor is an absolute $#@%$#%@! to install,
 however, removing it and observing that the rotor is pointed
 to #1 cylinder is a good verification of cam timing position.
 (Chris taught me a trick to install the lower rotor clip
 loop a piece of wire thru the clip, pull away using visegrips)
 
 I was able to loosen the crank pulley bolt on some of the
 Qs using only a 2.5 ft 1/2 craftsman breaker bar on a
 6pt 27mm socket.  It was a bit scary how undertorqued the crank
 bolts were - I've dealt with wheel bolts that were tighter.
 
 The amount of camaraderie last weekend was unbelievable.
 Everyone learned something, and although we "serious" ;-)
 wrenches didn't have too much time to socialize, it was
 still fun to talk "audi".
 
 Thanks again to those who attended, and our gracious hosts,
 the Millers...
 
-Peter Schulz
 1990 CQ
 1991 TQW
 schulz@res.ray.com