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[Fwd: Re: HELP! Window won't go up!]
Dan.....I had this happen to me several times, and I can suggest 4
approaches to fixing it.
(1)The "up" wire from switch to motor is broken at the door hinge, where it
flexes every time you open and close the door. Strip back the cable cover,
examine for break. Replace about 6 inches of broken wire so repair doesn't
go in same spot as original break.
(2)The "up" electric contacts of the switch aren't connecting. Pry up a
switch from a window that IS working, and substitute it for the troublesome
one.
(3)The "up" physical pressure tabs in the rocker of the bad switch aren't
pushing on the micro switch beneath them. Same effect as #2 above,
different cause. Same fix, swap in a working switch from a back window. But
you can also pry off the ROCKER and press on the micro switch (underneath
rocker) with a pencil eraser. The microswitch is covered by a thin clear
plastic covering at the front of the switch.I used this method, because my
elbow was always accidently lowering the rear window an this removal of the
rocker cap was better than amputating my left arm.
(4)Take off the door panel, trace the wiring to the motor, and use an
auxiliary battery to supply 12 volts to the "up" wire of the motor. A
battery charger would also be a source of the current. You are by-passing
both a broken wire in the door, and/or a faulty switch. And you are
proving that the motor works. This method is the FIRST thing a mechanic
will do, because it allows him to fix the real problem (which may be the
motor itself.)
There you have it. Easy answer that may work: Swap in a working switch. If
that doesn't raise the window, it is either a broken wire or a bad motor.
Doyt Echelberger
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
At 02:10 AM 5/2/1999 EDT, you wrote:
>
>
> Help! Tonight a friend of mine rolled down the window in my '89 200TQ
>and while it went down fine, it did not come back up. Switch is getting
power.
>We figure a bad window regulator or bad window motor. We pulled the door
panel
>off the car in a dark parking lot (blind luck as I'd never pulled it off this
>car before). We couldn't figure it out. It looks like the cable is in
place,
>and we can hear the motor making noise when you hit the down, but nothing
when
>you hit up. I'm thinking half (the one that does up) of the motor is
dead, or
>something to that effect. Only problem is....My window is still
down!!!!!!!!!
>
> Any way to just get the window back up? I don't have to be able to open
>it again, but I'd like it closed. I have a garbage bag over it now and that
>doesn't do much for security. I also park in a parking deck (I don't have a
>secure garage) so I need to do something ASAP! Please respond with any
>suggestions or quick fixes. I'm sure I will need to order a new window
>regulator or motor, but for now I just need the window shut!
>
> Later,
> Dan
>
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan Page <alanpage@connix.com>
To: Fred Munro <munrof@isys.ca>; qlist <quattro@audifans.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 8:47 PM
Subject: Re: '94 S4 rear brake pad replacement
> Fred,
>
> Thanks for the help! I actually ended up purchasing a 15mm wrench today
after my
> adjustable wouldn't fit in between the flared nut and the carrier.
>
> I got Audi pads from the dealer, but they didn't have the bolts with them.
> Should I ask for a kit next time?
>
Hi Alan;
The pads sometimes come with replacement bolts since the Bentley notes
the bolts should always be replaced. I have re-used the bolts in the past
after cleaning them and applying blue Loctite. The new bolts come with a
threadlocker already applied.
The bolts also come with the guide pin rebuild kit, which also includes
new rubber boots and a small tube of silicone lube.
HTH
Fred
Today was the first shakedown and test day for the new ex-factory A4 quattro
(WAUZZZ8DZSA000063) that is awaiting its maiden race under the banners of
Audi Sport Finland. LMS is servicing and running the car along with another
older ex-Audi A4 quattro and SMS's Audi 80 Competition powered by a
beautifully built MTM 1.8T engine. The weather was a balmy one degree above
freezing, and the occasional snoflakes greeted us along with a persistent
wind.
The driver, Mikko Lempinen, had his first laps ever in a saloon car as he
took to the track at Alastaro. The car ran well (as expected) considering
the tires were old test tyres from last year and the tires did not even get
up to 50 deg C temperature buildup. Mikko ran approximately 30 laps on four
different outings, and his times were consistently improving. The times
were still a bit off our target, but considering the conditions, the tires
and his first outing in the car, all were pleased.
On tuesday there will bwe more tests, this time a new set of Michelins are
going under the car, and hopefully the carbon fibre lids will be ready by
the tests around the end of the week. I took a few photos at the test
today, so once I get around to processing, if someone wants to post some
pics (mostly underhood/inside/trunk etc) lemme know.
The press day for all national championship series (track) is on Thursday,
and the first races are on the weekend of May 21-23.
Jouko Haapanen
Pori, Finland
-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Payne <quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk>
>White and smells acrid? Sign of burning coolant. Blue is usually valve
>guides or a turbo seal. Looking for a cause of both together? Something
>serious has happened to the head gasket between #4 and #5 or behind
>#5. On the MB, this doesn't always result in exhaust products in the
>coolant, which is the usual sign otherwise.
Hmm.. Head and gasket are about 20 months old but there could be a problem
there although the car isn't drinking coolant the way it did last time -
I'll check inside the cyclinders tomorrow,....BUT, I retrieved my lost 10mm
socket by removing the rh headlamp and hooking the socket out with a bent
coathanger and a thought struck me - when I'd described the clouds of smoke
to a friend earlier today I said it looked just like a blown turbo, so I
removed the turbo hoses to take a look. Very little oil in the front of the
turbo, less than I expected to see, but I got a surprize when I took hold of
the impellor shaft - it moved, there's so much play that not only can I feel
it and see it move - I can hear it rattle too.
>> Hmm.. Theres a white 88 for sale not to far from me - asking price is
>> less than GBP6k - a drastic solution but it would give me something
>> more powerful (and classy) than the Metro to drive until I get this
>> one fixed.
>
>If it's the one in Preston - contact Roger Galvin or Richard Simmonds.
Its in the Selby area, white, grey leather, 'maintained regardless', 'new
job forces sale', etc etc.... still, its nearly half the price of the one at
Kirk Lane Motors.
>> But can I really justify three of these cars?
>
>Galvin has three ur-quattro, a 200TQ and a Coupe quattro. I think (and
>I've told him) that he's an idiot. He also has two small children and
>(for the moment at least) a wife.
Ah, I waited _until_ my wife left - then I bought the first ur-quattro.
Jim Haseltine
Mark L. Chang wrote:
>
> 4kq typ 85? remove the rear seat back... may need two people - check the
> bentley. Hooks up in the trunk by the seat belt towers. Someone needs to
> push down on the seatback and someone else needs to pull on the hook.
> Then just lift out. (I've never had help doing this.. it actually works
> by yourself -- just push down on each corner of the seatback and shove
> toward the trunk...)
>
> Then, bend up the tab you will see in the middle of the rear decklid
> portion that was covered by the seatback. Unscrew/remove speakers if you
> have 'em. Slide the shelf out. Voila... strut nuts.
>
Yep, that's how it went. I'm working on the fronts right now.
Wolff
> Windows NT crashed. ICQ 9059481
> I am the Blue Screen of Death. For PGP public key:
> No one hears your screams. finger mchang@ece.nwu.edu
I am seriously looking at a 84 TQC at KAR of Minnesota.
Chet seems knowledgeable and friendly and has a sincere passion for the mark.
Feedback??
In message <000401be94df$971c8880$f208883e@default> "Jim Haseltine" writes:
> ... removed the turbo hoses to take a look. Very little oil in the front of the
> turbo, less than I expected to see, but I got a surprize when I took hold of
> the impellor shaft - it moved, there's so much play that not only can I feel
> it and see it move - I can hear it rattle too.
If the impellor's hitting the housing then it is, as we say down 'ere,
shagged.
I got one in the garage from MB001293, but I suspect that's shagged
too.
If the seals are gone, oil from the galleries will seep into the turbo
inlet housing overnight. If you spin the turbo, it spits this out of
the housing towards the intercooler. It's a good idea to clear this out
before you drop the turbo, if you're going to use the patent "from
below" turbo-only removal procedure. Otherwise a puddle of old oil runs
down your overall sleeves and ruins one of your best business shirts,
causing irritation on the distaff side.
--
Phil Payne
Phone: 0385 302803 Fax: 01536 723021
(The contents of this post will _NOT_ appear in the UK Newsletter.)
Hi Jon,
Please have a look at:
http://www.netbsd.org/Documentation/kernel/index.html
You should find there every information you need ;-))
have fun,
emanuel
-----Original Message-----
From: Jonathan R. Hinds <jon@luhsd.k12.ca.us>
To: port-vax@netbsd.org <port-vax@netbsd.org>
Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 4:18 PM
Subject: Building a Kernel
>I can build the entire world, no problem. All I want, however, is the
>kernel. Can someone clue me in as to how I would just build the kernel.
>Thanks.
>
>--jon
>
>
I wrote a message, but didn't think it went through--I'll repeat.
I had a broken distributor drive gear (plastic) on my 1990 90CQ, and after
replacing it with a bosch distributor with metal gear, I get a rattling
(between a rattling and a grinding) around 2000 rpms, it seems to be coming
from the distributor area.
I believe this to be a piece of plastic from the old drive gear caught
between some gear teeth? Otherwise I would have to think it may be a
problem with the cam shaft.
Any suggestions?
I wish I didn't have to claim this as urgent, but I have little other
choice--I'm nearing 3 weeks without my car, so any help would be greatly
appreciated.
Also, where's the best place to order a Bentley for my car (90CQ)? My
mechanic will sell me one at his cost ($90 or so?) -- still a little pricey,
but can you put a price on priceless knowledge?
Thanks!
Jason
90CQ
Huw-
Well welcome to the list! We are all one big happy family here and
if you have a q, you are really cool (at least cooler than me).
I have an 84 also but not a quattro... BTW, quattro should be spelled
with a small q. As a newbie that is something you should know. :0)
if you find that your new car is too much for you, I'll trade you for some
leather Coupe door panels....
Welcome to the list :0)
Ron
(Ha Ha Ha! Did the panels get there yet?)
Huw Powell choose to humor us with:
>Hi, I'm new to this list.
>
>I just bought a red 1984 Audi 4000 "Quattro" with 248,000 miles.
>
>Only one of the doors opens. The driver's side front window makes an
>awful racket while barely opening/closing. The power locks don't work.
>The rear springs seem to sag a bit.
>
>Would this be the place to find out how to fix these things, and is this
>car something I could work on myself?
>
>- --
>Huw Powell
Hello again. Ok, I know have a complete list of the bigger stuff which I'm
needing:
1. Headlight mounding brackets - both sides (don't need lenses)
2. Right side marker light (yellow, next to headlight)
3. Filler piece (steel, between grill and top of bumper)
4. Grill (doesn't have to be a q)
That's about it. Please reply directly if you have any or all (yeah,
right)... with price.
TIA!
jim slusser
'90 80q (with the cross-eyed lights)
Anybody have a recommendation for an alignment shop for my wife's '89 100Q
in the Hartford/Manchester Ct. area? East of the river preferred.
Thanks
Frank Stadmeyer
The brake pressure regulator on my '84 4000sq is leaking and needs to be
replaced.
Q1 - Is it possible to temporarily plug the lines as I remove them, or will
I get brake fluid all over the place and have to bleed the master cylinder
and clutch anyhow?
Q2 - How much more would be involved if I wanted to remove the master
cylinder so I could repaint the brake booster (lost some paint due to
leaking brake fluid.) Bentley manual seems to indicate that I would have
to remove the booster and master cylinder together anyhow?
Q3 - I do not have a pressure bleeding setup, Can the master cylinder be
pedal bled if it has run completely dry?
Thanks,
Chuck
Seattle, WA
My accelerator pedal got stuck a few minutes ago, as I was going to the
station to pick someone up. Luckily, no one was in front of me, and it
was a straight road, so I had time to stick my foot under the pedal and
push it up. After stopping, it does not appear that there are any
'sticky' spots in the pedal movement. Any idea what caused the pedal to
stick? What should I be lubricating?
This was scary! Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Samir.
In a message dated 5/2/99 1:55:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
human@nh.ultranet.com writes:
<< Any way to just get the window back up?
>>
Dan- Find the 2 wires which run down to the motor. On my car they appear to
be of a heavier guge. Use a 12 Volt source, and try (quickly) both polarities
to see which will raise the window. If this doesn't work, the motor will have
to be removed (MPIA) and repaired. If this works, you have either a switch
problem (try swaping) or a wiring problem. HTH
Frank Santoro
1990 V8
1998 A8
well, the sucker not only looks fast, it is fast. the times for the 1st le
mans pre-qualifying session are in, and the r8c was 3rd, behind the toyota
gt1 and the panoz lmp (!), but ahead of the m-b clr and the bmw lmr, the
nissan r391 and the ferrari 333sp.
early days yet, the full results will be known this evening...
btw, both a bmw and a mb clk were totalled during the session.
dave
'95 rs2
'90 ur-q
Check your cruise control linkage next to the intake/valve cover. Mine
jumped out of the bushing and got wedged at 3/4 throttle. Pulling up on
the pedal did nothing, turning key off and removing the linkage rod fixed.
The rod is still in the tool box btw, as I don't like being burned twice.
Dave
----------
> From: Samir Shah <gofast1@home.com>
> To: Quattro List <quattro@audifans.com>
> Subject: 200tqa: just had unintended acceleration
> Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 9:04 PM
>
> My accelerator pedal got stuck a few minutes ago, as I was going to the
> station to pick someone up. Luckily, no one was in front of me, and it
> was a straight road, so I had time to stick my foot under the pedal and
> push it up. After stopping, it does not appear that there are any
> 'sticky' spots in the pedal movement. Any idea what caused the pedal to
> stick? What should I be lubricating?
>
> This was scary! Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
>
> Samir.
>I'm thinking of going with a 17" wheel (ATP Spa or TSW VX-1)for my A4,
>but can't decide on a tire.
>I would need a 225/45. My concern is that I live on a dirt road in VT,
>but spend 90% of my time on pavement. Should I go with an Dunlop Sport
>9000, or Yokahama AVS Sport or stick with a lesser performance tire that
>would offer me a longer tread life and stand up to the dirt roads better?
As a person in a similar situation, I know (as do you) that you
WILL lose milage if you drive on dirt roads to get home. Even a 1 mile
driveway takes it toll real fast. Unless maybe you drive it at 10mph
which no one who lives on one does every day. :-)
YOu can still get a performance tire that will last though. While
they wont have the ultimate grip due to a harder Tread Compound they will
offer the steering input, feel, and precision of thier softer counterparts
but will last.
Pirelli P7000 Super Sport & Toyo FZ4 come to mine. I thi nk
both have tread wears in the 300 region. I would lean to the FZ4 as I
think its M&S Rated but also Z-rated. Looks to be good in the Rain, Dry,
and will get you through the occasional Mud.
There may be others though so keep an eye out. These should work
great on the street but on the Track they may not hold up well. Not sure
though.
>Any thoughts?
>I'm going to keep the 16" stock wheels for snows.
Good plan.
L8R
Todd Phenneger
1985 4000 quattro / silver / daily driver
1983 ur-q / black / fixing it up
1984 4000 quattro / modified/ awaiting Turbo Transplant.
1987 4000 quattro / Saphire Metallic Blue/ Girlfriend's
1996 A6q / Volcano / Dads Car
*****1985 5kt / PARTING OUT!
Got a chance to watch some of the practice at the PCA club race at Putnam
Park (Indiana) Saturday. According to a friend, our own Dave Ohlemacher
was in attendance with his 928(not racing btw). Sorry I missed meeting you
Dave. Loads of 911's including some GT3 cup cars which were screamingly
fast. Not to mention some verrry well prepped 944's which gave some of the
911's a lesson in handling. The highlight by far was a fellow who brought
what appeared to be two 916's(?). Single seat, enclosed, twin turbo, twin
intercoolers and an exhaust coming off the turbo that was all of 4" long
with an exhaust system for the wastgate as well. Needless to say the car
was "cat with its tail on fire fast"
Dave
well,
YOu could just Call Summit Racing at (800)230-3030 and order a
Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler. Will make the car a little louder but with
the Center Resonator in place its great. Without (Like my car) its a
little on the loud side when you get on it hard.
Anyhow, its only $29 for the muffler. 16" Offset inlet/outlet is
what you want. 2.25 or 2.5". I used 2.5" and then when my piping wears
out 2.5" piping up to the Cat is going in for better flow.
Then just have a good shop install it for you.
L8R
Todd
---------------------------------------
Well, I,ve called all the parts dealers around and none of them have an
original equipment rear muffler listed for an 87 4kcsq.
Has anyone used the Blaufergnugen,$159., 4kq exhaust? Midas has to
special order one at $215., but it is warranted for life.
Are there anymore sources out there besides an original Audi pipe?
Todd Phenneger
1985 4000 quattro / silver / daily driver
1983 ur-q / black / fixing it up
1984 4000 quattro / modified/ awaiting Turbo Transplant.
1987 4000 quattro / Saphire Metallic Blue/ Girlfriend's
1996 A6q / Volcano / Dads Car
*****1985 5kt / PARTING OUT!
Ok, I ordered my spanking new Dunlop SP8000 195-55-14's for my coupe.
Together with the new suspension, they should really make the car trick!
Mmmm...
June can't come soon enough (Koni externally adjustable's available then)
Later, I;ll let you guys know how I like the tires!
Carter J
Kwattro@aol.com
On May 1, Geo Mills wrote:
> Anyone have a ring gear for this? pn 811 035 509. I know
> it's a long shot. Dealer says "Nope. Have to buy the whole
> dang thing." Thanks.
> Geo
Dry your eyes compadre. You will not have to spend billions to fix the Fuba.
Antenna World, in Miami, FL rebuilds Fubas. Raul Pla is the president and
majority owner. He personally handles customer svc for Fubas. Straight
forward, approachable guy.
I'm assuming that your problem is a "grinding" one accompanied by the antenna
not fully extending or retracting. This was my problem with two fubas.
According to Raul, if your ring gear is worn, chances are there is excess
play in the shaft of the small drive gear. He can sell you a new ring gear;
or, if you send him your antenna core, he will check it and repair as
necessary. From what I remember, the ring gear is about $20US. A complete
rebuild is under $50US for new or rebuilt guts(with 1 yr warrantee).
You can contact Raul at Raul@antennaworld.com They also have a web site with
Audi Q&A for Fubas: www.antennaworld.com.
BTW, Raul buys Fuba cores and antenna shafts. If you or any others on the
list have extra Fubas(working or not), perhaps you can make a deal. The
shafts have to be in good working order. The cores do not, but must be
complete.
My personal interest? He has two of my antennas to fix. Tell him that I
referred you. I think that he will appreciate knowing that word-of-mouth
still works. Your mention of me isn't going to affect my arrangement with
him for my antenna repair.
Good luck. Pls let me know if I can help further.
Jan Pinkowish
'85 4ksq
My sister owns an '86 5000s Automatic. The car has a funny problem that
I have never heard of before. She was driving down the highway and
hadn't touched brake pedal for quite sometime, when she did go for the
brakes the pedal was rock solid giving only about an inch of travel then
going hard. After noticing this she released the pedal and began to
notice that the car began to slow on it's own. The car's brakes were
grabbing more and more by the second. She accelerated and the car still
became slower. The steering wheel began to shake, so she pulled off to
the side of the road. Slowly but surely the brakes let up and she was
on her way, although it took some time. This brake seizing had occurred
before in stop and go traffic. After a couple minutes of driving or
waiting will fix the problem. Any ideas guys? Maybe the accumulator?
Brake fluid is still amber, not dark. Has new bleeder nipples in the
rears, new flex hoses all around, and new rotors+pads in the front.
Thank you,
Alexander van Gerbig '88 80
The Audi 80 Pages
http://surf.to/the80pages.com
Family Audis
------------
'86 5000s
'88 80
'91 200q20v Avant
'91 90q20v
'92 100s
'96 100csq
'98 A4q1.8t
My '88 80 has done the same thing before, once in parking lot, eek.
Wonder what it is? Cruise control?
Thank you,
Alexander van Gerbig '88 80
The Audi 80 Pages
http://surf.to/the80pages.com
Family Audis
------------
'86 5000s
'88 80
'91 200q20v Avant
'91 90q20v
'92 100s
'96 100csq
'98 A4q1.8t
I have sent messages before about Waterfest '99. I would really like to
know if anyone is interested at all in showing or autocrossing an Audi
on July 25th. I am also now looking for some judges to judge show class
Audis. Anyone? It'll be fun...
Thank you,
Alexander van Gerbig '88 80
The Audi 80 Pages
http://surf.to/the80pages.com
Family Audis
------------
'86 5000s
'88 80
'91 200q20v Avant
'91 90q20v
'92 100s
'96 100csq
'98 A4q1.8t
Floor mats? (typical),
Avi
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-quattro@audifans.com [mailto:owner-quattro@audifans.com] On
Behalf Of Samir Shah
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 1999 6:05 PM
To: Quattro List
Subject: 200tqa: just had unintended acceleration
My accelerator pedal got stuck a few minutes ago, as I was going to the
station to pick someone up. Luckily, no one was in front of me, and it
was a straight road, so I had time to stick my foot under the pedal and
push it up. After stopping, it does not appear that there are any
'sticky' spots in the pedal movement. Any idea what caused the pedal to
stick? What should I be lubricating?
This was scary! Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Samir.
hey all, sorry that no one could make it, this weekend was a blast.
Yesterday was the 6 hour endurance race. tim valencia and rod cornell
were the drivers of the 4000 turbo quattro 20v race car. they had only
had it on the track one other time, and that was last week, for testing.
So basically, their goal was to simply finish the race. Well, they
definitely did that. they finished the race with NO mechanical problems
and cam in 4th intheir class out of 9, and 14th out of 40+ cars. 2 of
the cars ahead of them were Dinan prepped cars, so there are some BIG
bucks in those cars... We didnt expect to catch them at all, thats for
sure. There was more than one lap where we were able to pass one of the
Dinan cars and keep up with the E30 M3 car, but that was better than we
could have hoped. So, once they get a couple bugs out of the ECU and
get rid of those horrible Kumho tires, they will be SMOKING, seriosly....
Anyay, then came today, and i did my first official track school. It was
a NASA event, and on the recommendation of Tim, i ran in group 3. they
allow passing in any straight, and by the end of the day, any turn as
well. There are only 4 classes, and class 4 is basically a race without
a prize money or a winner.... 3 has no instructor in the car, etc etc...
I have only had one half of a track event, which was only the front half
of Thunderhill and was only one day long... Today, we ran the full 3
miles, and man it was fun. In the group there were more than a few
vipers, a 355, a few M3's, many 911's, a ton of gen 1 rx7 spec race
cars...etc...you get the pont. the first session, i was scared out of my
mind, there i am in a basically stock UrQ, with just some bigger wheels
and 205/55 tires, stock everything else sitting in between a ZR1 and a
Viper GTS SLR...talk about pressure... So, the first session, i went
really slow, remembering the front half and hacking my way through the
back. I think i got passed by 7-8 cars. then came the 2nd session. I
got tim to go out with me and he showed me some great tricks. but i was
nervous as hell because some POS capri (really fast actually) passed me
on a corner and that spooked me, i just wasnt ready for that. So after i
got done with that, i was second guessing my capability as a driver, and
whether i wanted to drive again, etc. Well, im glad i did. the 3rd
session was amazing. I just relaxed and drove. To say that my speed was
up would be an understatement. Not only did i only get passed by one or
two cars, but i held off alot more than that....namely the 355, an E36
M3, and a very trick RX7...the only ones that passed me were the viper (i
had him in the turns, but he wanted by, so i let him), and that trick
capri...(again). Session 4 was great after that...they allowed passing
anywhere, and i was really on my game. I had gotten myself to learn to
turn in alot sooner, and was smoother as well... I passed a few cars, and
almost had a 911S. i was pulling him on the straight (barely), and had
him easily in the turns, but none of the straits, before the end, were
long enough for me to get by. The M3 was really getting frustrated
though, he was right behind me. Going into turn 2, he would be right on
me, but by the end of that turn, he was a few carlengths back. Somehow,
my car was turning better than his...talk about crazy. Still held off
the 355 and a few other cars.
Man, i cant wait to get into the Pro 7 stuff and get into racing myself.
Well, 1 down, 3-5 more schools to go before i go for my license.
Woohoo!!!
later...
Michael Sheridan Williams
San Francisco, CA
ICQ# 11740998
1983 UrQuattro, MC--1.8 BAR, borla, 16x7.5 OZ Mito's w/ SP8000's, K&N
1985 4000S Quattro, Koni Yellows/Coilover (2B), strut brace, Sport 8000
Tires, K&N
http://members.aol.com/daserde2
Check out my web site at http://surf.to/the80pages.com and click on the
spinning Waterfest '99 logo for information.
Alexander van Gerbig '88 80
The Audi 80 Pages
http://surf.to/the80pages.com
Family Audis
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'86 5000s
'88 80
'91 200q20v Avant
'91 90q20v
'92 100s
'96 100csq
'98 A4q1.8t
On Sun, 2 May 1999, Huw Powell wrote:
]
use the switch from the drivers side, if there's a
plug on it. worked great for my urq, but they are
right next to one another so it is pretty convenient.
this way you can roll up the window immediately, too.
--
rocky mullin
http://caliban.sf.ca.us/
two strokes are faster than four!
this message was composed using the vi editor.
'83 ur-q - yamaha rz350 - suzuki ts250 - chaotic good
Does anyone know of a good web source for used Audis?
I tried Yahoo, but didn't have much luck....
Bob W.
Hi all,
No replies yet, so I'll resend-
Yesterday my dash lights and light warning buzzer stopped working.
Everything else on fuse 12 is still OK. Any BTDTs on common problems here
before I get out the Bentley and start measuring everything? It's a type
89/B3 model 90q.
Addition: the lights on the heater controls (three knobs, no a/c in this
car!) are also RIP. Does this ring a bell for anyone? I've tried reading
wiring diagrams, but they're abracadabra to me...
TIA for all your suggestions!
Tom
_______________________________________________________________________
Tom Nas Zeist, The Netherlands
tnas@euronet.nl
1987 Audi 90q 2.3E, Tizianrot metallic, 167,000km
Imagination is more important than knowledge.
-- Albert Einstein
Hi all,
I'm getting my bent Ronal straightened out today (hopefully), so I can go
back from steels+M&S to alloys (the M&S tyres are not speed rated for my
car, so it won't pass the annual test with them). Whilst taking the Ronals
off, I noticed that two of them had home-made centre caps held on by
nothing more than good luck. Anyway, I can't get them on like the previous
owner did (they've broken off, actually), and have been trying every source
I can think of to find some replacements. NLA for years here, apparently.
I know that Ronal 16-spoke wheels are pretty common in the US, and I hope
that the caps for the 4k/CGT Ronals are the same as those on my 15x7s.
They're marked 'RONAL 0555 71053', are 145mm in diameter, exactly 3mm thick
and have a metal retaining ring 50mm in diameter in the centre. I can
provide digi-pics. (Mine don't have the Audi logo BTW, but they've been
resprayed)
I'm looking for two caps (don't have to be perfect- as long as they still
clamp onto the wheel they're OK). I'm in Holland, but these things don't
weigh much so they should be cheap to ship.
Is anyone on the list in posession of two caps that are surplus to
requirements, and willing to sell them to me for a realistic price? I can
pay you in US$, or-ideally- trade for Audi stuff (brochures, models, etc)-
provided they're identical in size to my existing caps. The fit is pretty
snug, so I think small variations in size can make a difference between
fitting and falling off.
TIA very much for your responses!
Tom
_______________________________________________________________________
Tom Nas Zeist, The Netherlands
tnas@euronet.nl
1987 Audi 90q 2.3E, Tizianrot metallic, 167,000km
Imagination is more important than knowledge.
-- Albert Einstein
Hi all,
Just thought I'd write a little 'review' of two Audi books I've acquired
recently.
One is 'Audi A8' by Jurgen Lewandowski, published by Delius Klasing Verlag
in Germany, ISBN 3-7688-0851-3.
Non-tech book on the general history of Audi with special focus on
aluminium constructions. Audi Avus, Spyder and ASF get special mentions,
some never-published pics of Avus and Spyder design alternatives and
excellent text on the design intricacies of the A8 and its production
process. Good reading material for all-round Audi nuts. Text in German and
English. Pretty expensive for its limited appeal, though. First published
1994, 160 pages, full-color.
The other is 'The Audi Quattro book' by Dave Pollard. Haynes Publishers,
ISBN 1 85960 403 X. Coffee table book about the UrQ, pretty nice quality,
UK-centred. Heritage, rally history, some tech stuff (though I recall Phil
Payne citing some inaccuracies). Given the limited amount of reading
material about our cars, this is pretty good, though. Quality of the
pictures is excellent, and it seems well-produced to me- although its
purpose shouldn't be as the be-all end-all in UrQ wrenching books but more
as a general introduction.
175 pages, both f/c and black & white. First published 1998.
Tom