RE: 90 MC knock sensor #1

["Buchholz, Steven" <Steven.Buchholz@kla-tencor.com>]

I'm not completely familiar with the dual knock sensor MC, but I dealt with
the same thing on my earlier MC ... they are different sensors and
incompatible.  

There was a change in the connector housing to one that has gold plated
contacts ... I don't know if the MC-II already has these or not, but if you
can tell that the old KS has silve metal pins you might want to get three
gold pins and replace the old one.  It has been quite a while since I did
mine, but I seem to recall that the original sensor had a red band on it
while the gold pinned replacement looked the same but had a green band &
connector.  

BTW, there is some chance that your current KS was simply not torqued to the
proper value, which caused the fault you saw.  I did try retorquing my
sensor, but even after that I still got the KS fault codes ...

HTH!
Steve Buchholz
San Jose, CA (USA)

> ----------
> From: 	bsullivan@pcconnection.com[SMTP:bsullivan@pcconnection.com]
> Sent: 	Thursday, May 20, 1999 9:29 AM
> To: 	quattro@audifans.com
> Subject: 	90 MC knock sensor #1
> 
> Any BTDTs on this? 
> 
> Just received a replacement knock sensor from TPC for the number 1 sensor
> on
> my MC engine. The design is different, but maybe the old design was
> superceded. The old ones look like little hexagonal towers, with the wires
> coming out of the end. The replacement I got is more like a donut, with
> the
> wires coming out of the side. It would require a 8mm bolt to attach it to
> the engine. As I said, not necessarily a problem. What is a problem is
> that
> the lead wire is 6 inches too short. Before I slice and solder, I want to
> make sure I've got one that'll work, and I don't have any non-slice
> options.
> 
> ETKA lists what I need as 054 905 377 C. TPC and a few others can't seem
> to
> pull this up, so I guess the one I got is match for the plain old 054 905
> 377. It would be long enough, if it were for the #2 sensor. In fact, the
> original sensors have different length leads, to work perfectly from the
> position they're in (so I can't switch 'em and put the new one at #2.
> 
> Do I have the wrong part, or is slicing and soldering just a required
> operation on parts like this?
> 
> Thanks.
>