rebuilding N/A 5

["auditude" <auditude@impulsedata.net>]

I got the compression test done on the overheated/stopped '85 4ksq motor 
this weekend.  I don't have the specs with me, but they were not equal and 
all leaked down quickly.  I did it twice, and the first time the number 5 
cylinder held its compression until I released it, but all the others and the 
second time, they all lost pressure right away.

I refilled the motor with clean oil, put a new filter on, and connected all the 
connectors I unplugged (BTW, couldn't find a mate for a small blue single 
female blade connector on the left side of the block with a blue/white wire, 
looked like it wasn't connected to anything before.  Any clues here?  It's by 
the other two, which apparently were for the high and low oil pressure 
switches.)

When the motor turns over, it doesn't sound regular.  I suppose it turns over 
quickly, more so than a healthy motor.  I would expect that with the plugs 
out tho'.  I can't really describe much more about the sound.

So, I think I'll be pulling the head off to take a look.  I was wondering if some 
would like to discuss the steps involved in rebuilding it myself, and having the 
machine work done professionally.  I need to know common sense things 
like "do I buy the rings and bearings first so they are ready, or do I wait until 
the block goes to the shop so they can tell me if it needs to be bored 
oversize, or that it is junk".  Should I pull the head off in the car, and pull the 
block out afterwards?  How heavy is the block, if I take the head off and pull 
the rotating assembly out too.

If I just to the top end, how exactly does one inspect the bottom end 
(bearings, cylinder walls) to ensure they are OK?

I am torn between doing a complete rebuild, and just doing a decent enough 
job to make it until I get a house and a turbo donor car.  I would like to get 
the car mobile under it's own power, but I don't want to spend too much 
money.

If I wasn't planning on the turbo conversion, I would be buying some 
Techtonics hi compression pistons for $500, and going about it that way.  
But I am going to do the turbo.

When I get a valve job, what are some things I want to look for or specify?  
New guides and seals, etc.  How do I know if it is a good shop?

Thanks,

Ken
p.s.  It was kinda exciting to hear the ISV on the car buzzing!  The car is 
usually totally silent and immobile.  Makes me think it is a car and not a big 
paperweight!
I already have the head gasket set, and oil pan gasket as well.