Re: Rear Diff Oil Seal Replacement Questions

["Fred Munro" <munrof@isys.ca>]

----- Original Message -----
From: Levis-Fithian, Jeff E <LevisJE@LOUISVILLE.STORTEK.COM>
To: 'Quattro-List' <quattro@audifans.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 1999 11:34 PM
Subject: Rear Diff Oil Seal Replacement Questions


> I noticed a few drops of oil under the rear diff of my 95 A6Q.  Upon
further
> inspection, it appears that the right side oil seal is leaking.  I've done
> some research on fixing this myself and it looks doable, but I have a
couple
> of questions I was wondering if the more experienced q-listers could
answer:
> 1. Can a backyard/weekend mechanic do this job?  Or am I asking for
> trouble?
> 2. The 6 bolts that hold the drive axle to the flanged shaft look like
> torx bolts.  ETKA says they are BM10x48x26 size w/ polygon head.  What
size
> torx socket do I need to get for these?  Also, should I replace these?  If
> so, do I need to use Loctite and what kind?  Bentley says "bolts are
> microencapsulated with locking compound" and "always install new bolts".
> 3. The fill plug is described as M24x1.5.  Does this mean a 24mm allen?
> 4. Do I need to get tool 2062 to press in the oil seal, or could I
> fabricate something? (wooden rod?)
> 5. What type of oil should I refill the diff with when I am done?
>
> Thanks for any help!
> -Jeff
> Bleeding 95 A6Q
>

Hi Jeff;

    I've done the right diff seal on my '91 200q. My observations:

1. I had no problem with this job. Took my time, did the e-brake cables at
the same time. The job took about 4 hours start to finish.

2. The bolts use "triple square" bits, not Torx bits. These fasteners are
common on VW, Audi, & Porsche cars. Bits are available at most tool stores.
Make sure you clean out the bolt heads before inserting the bit. The new
bolts come with locking compound pre-applied. I re-used my old bolts with
blue Loctite.

3. The plug on my car was 17 mm Allen. Some of the newer Audi's apparently
have a centre post in these plugs to preclude the use of a regular Allen
key. I suppose this is to discourage untrained and generally unwashed owners
from attempting the highly skilled job of replacing the diff oil. A Dremel
style grinder should resolve this little problem if your car is so equipped.

4. The tool makes sure the seal is installed square to the case and to the
proper depth. I measured the depth before removing the old seal. If you can
drive the seal in square, you should not require the tool. Remember to put
some lithium grease between the lips of the seal before inserting the axle
flange.

5. I'd use synthetic diff lube in the weight recommended for your car. I use
the Audi lubes on my car, but appropriate after market lubes should be just
as good.

HTH

Fred Munro
'91 200q  281k km