Re: Notes on CV boot replacement / Triple Sq. bolt removal

["Alan Kramer" <ackramer@hotmail.com>]

Good writeup.  I have found the following method **very** easy to remove the 
triple square bolts on my CGT:

Tools needed:
  8mm triple square (10mm for 5k)
  13mm deep socket
  2 8" drive extensions
  1 universal joint (ball type the best, or spring type OK)
  1 air-ratchet  (if you don't have one, this will justify the $30 cost with 
the first use)
  1 small persuader (hammer)

1)  Clean out the triple square bolt head
2)  Slide the triple square tool into the bolt head and apply persuasion if 
necessary to ensure complete fit.
3)  Attach extensions to 13mm deep socket, w/ u-joint in middle.  Slide 
socket over triple square tool.
4)  Attach air ratchet to extensions. The ratchet will be just shy of the 
inside of the tire (use longer extensions and no u-joint if tire off)
5)  Make sure ratchet is in reverse direction and zap off bolt.  Usually 
takes about 1 minute a side.

Installation reverse of removal once bolts are started by hand.  Run in the 
bolt with the ratchet but *don't tighten* with ratchet; use torque wrench 
instead to ensure final proper tightness.

If you don't have the air ratchet, a regular ratchet will work but will be 
harder 'cause the driveshaft will want to spin.  Don't try it with an 
air-impact wrench, it'll spin way too fast, even at low settings.

HTH,
Alan



>From: Andrew Pawlisz <apawlisz@tufts.edu>
>To: Quattro List <quattro@audifans.com>
>Subject: Notes on CV boot replacement
>Date: Fri, 24 Sep 1999 09:00:24 -0400
>
>Well I did it.  I managed to change an outer CV boot despite several,
>potentially-serious, stumbling points.  Here are my observations.
>
>1. The tools needed: 10-mm 12-point (triple square) (Auto zone $13,
>PepBoys $12 for a set of 4), 13-mm socket and wrench, 32-mm axle nut, a
>large breaker bar, floor jack, vise grips, circlip pliers, and boot kit
>($17 from Foreign Import, includes axle nut, two circlips, boot, grease,
>and sealing rings (Made in Germany)).
>
>2. Forget split boots ($15-$20 Autoz, Pep (Quick Boot)) the do not fit,
>they do not work, and are a waste of time.
>
>3. I found it impossible to find a remanufactured shaft ($100).  At most
>places you have to bring in your old shaft and wait one week before it
>gets fixed.  Since the actual condition of the "remanufactured" shaft is
>unknown, that my joints were still good, and the fact that I cannot do
>without a car I decided to do the job myself.
>
>4. Set the wheels straight.
>5. Put the gear in neutral, apply a parking brake, and block the rear
>wheels.
>6. Loosen the wheel bolts.
>7. Loosen the axle nut. This required me to stand and bounce on the
>breaker bar.
>8. Lift the car.
>9. Remove the wheel bolts and the wheel.
>10. Undo the axle nut.
>11. Get under the car and unbolt the heat shield (13-mm wrench) around
>the inner CV joint.
>12. Get your triple square, 13-mm socket, and proceed to unbolt the
>inner CV joint.  This one was a PITA.  The bolts were very tight (I
>almost could not undo them and the triple square kept on tilting to the
>point of slipping out and stripping some of the "squares."  I found that
>the best method was to align one nut next to the exhaust pipe where
>there is the most clearance, clamp the shaft with vise grips, and pull
>hard with my left hand while steadying the wrench with my right hand
>sneaked around the exhaust pipe and suspension.  One that bolt was loose
>I would align the next bolt and repeat the process.  I found this system
>effective but very tiring and time consuming.
>13. Once I removed all the bolts the CV joint was free.  Not that if you
>start with the wheels all the way to the right.(I was replacing the
>right boot) you will not be able to move the inner joint because it
>interferes with the drive flange.  Instead start with the wheels
>straight, unbolt the joint, move it up, and then turn the wheels to the
>right.  This will allow you to slip out the shaft without much trouble.
>14. Take the driveshaft to the bench and put it in a vise.  The vise is
>extreemely helpful in keeping everything steady.
>15. Degrease the outer CV joint.  Brake parts cleaner works well but
>only well.
>16. Take your circlip pliers and spread the circlip as much as you can.
>Lots of rubber elastics can be used to keep everything in place.
>17. Hammer out the outer CV joint.  Hit the inner part of the joint
>only.
>18. In my case, this was the biggest PITA of the job.  It started with
>one of the ears of the circlip braking off the moment I applied the
>circlip pliers. I hardly use expletives but at that moment I did.  I
>suddenly saw flashes of list archives mentioning the unthinkable,
>worst-case scennario of the circlip breaking up.  I also recalled the
>lack of any mention of any fix to this problem.
>
>I tried to spread the circlip by applying the circlip pliers to the good
>tab and the broken end of the circlip.  No luck, the tips kept on
>slipping.  I tried to insert pieces of wire under the circlip ends and
>spread it that way.  No luck, I kept on hammering but nothing moved.  In
>desparation I weighed my options.  Hammer harder and risk the
>possibility of hitting and breaking the cage? Remove the inner joint and
>slip the boot backwards? Take the shaft to a garage and let them fix it?
>
>Then I remembered.  Perhaps Chris Miller, the host of the NE Tech Day
>would have any suggestions.  The luck was on my side.  He was home and
>answered the call.  After a short conversation and a quick check with
>the bible (Bentley) he said that I was on the right track.  He also
>mentioned that it might be possible to slide the circlip out.  That
>option was a long shot since the circlip was already proven to be very
>brittle.  Anyhow, his information and moral support was of great help as
>it eventually led to the conquest of the stuborn CV joint.
>
>I went back to the bench, tried a few more things, and decided on the
>final option.  I decided to slide the sucker out.  Carefully, I pulled
>and deflected the good end of the circlip to the side just enough to
>clear the edge of the CV joint.  Then I tapped lightly on the good end
>to ease it out and around the shaft.  Little by little it came out!
>From now on, the job was a breeze.  I tapped lightly (as indicated in
>the manual) on the joint and it came out without any problems.
>
>19. Install the boot, the new circlip, the grease, and the rings.  Tap
>the joint back on making sure that the new circlip has been seated.
>20. Insert the shaft back into the hub.
>21. Set the wheels straight and bolt the shaft to the drive flange.
>22. Spin on the new axle nut (finger-tight) and put on the wheel.
>23. Lower the car and tighen the axle nut.
>
>The job took 4 hours (a first timer).  Most of this time was wasted on
>the stupid circlip, a bad design. Million thanks to Chris Miller for his
>invaluable infromation and moral support.
>
>Andrew Pawlisz
>Boston, MA
>88 5ksq
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