Urq sorting out

[DGraber460@aol.com]

Steve,
I think it is time to check the fuel pressure.

Frederick,
I went through steps 1-4 that you posted earlier, and had generally good 
results. Some things seem to be sporadic, and a little confusing. At one 
point, pulling the idle switch connector would drop the idle slightly, at 
another time, it doesn't (this does not affect the DC reading). Sometimes 
blipping the throttle raises the DC to 61.9 from 49.7, other times it 
doesn't. Several blips resulted in DC increase to 61.9, then drop to 4.8, and 
gradually return to 49.7.
 
Several times it will maintain a DC of 4.8, only changing by disconnecting 
the O2 sensor, and behaving normally at reconnect.

Several drive and check tests resulted in DC readings of 49.7, but a 
noticeable misfire/rich running condition. I seem to be chasing a ghost. The 
only two constants are the WOT and idle switches. They change the DC reading 
the same amount every time. The ECU doesn't seem to be able to control the 
fuel mixture, hence the statement about the fuel pressure.

Another thing that took me awhile to figure out, is that the DC test port and 
meter are polarity sensitive. Why do I get a reading of 61.9 with the 
positive lead only, and 49.7 if both leads are connected?

I remember reading a post stating that the throttle plate mixture screw 
should be turned completely in to do all these setup tests. This car won't 
idle if that screw is bottomed in.

Any slight setting changes have a marked affect on the way the car runs, 
which from my carburetor days means I'm close to peak conditions, but I'm 
missing my base reference point from which to logically diagnose.

Dennis