Re: Just how hard is a EM R&R on a CGT??

["Alan Kramer" <ackramer@hotmail.com>]

I'd say definitely pull the head.  It's not a difficult thing to do.  Who 
knows, you might find something that made you glad you did it...

Anyway, I just removed the E/M and I/M from my CGT about 4 days ago (head 
and engine already out of car).  Would NOT want to even attempt it in the 
car.  Simply not enough room to see anything.

I'd also go with the 4kq exhaust.  Used manifolds are going for $50 on the 
list, and new downpipes are going for $100.  (Used $50).  If you want to 
keep your existing cat, you'll have to have an OXS bung welded onto the 
downpipe, or switch to the 4kq cat.

Alan




>From: Huw Powell <audi@mediaone.net>
>Reply-To: one@humanspeakers.com
>To: only5kgt@uswest.net
>CC: quattro@audifans.com
>Subject: Re: Just how hard is a EM R&R on a CGT??
>Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 02:35:32 -0400
>
> > Anyone have a real-world, step-by-step description of the
> > exhaust manifold removal procedure, specifically for a Coupe
> > GT? I understand perfectly what's involved (get the intake
> > out of the way, remove cracked EM, remove broken studs by
> > hook or crook, installation is reverse of removal etc
> > etc)... but how long does this really take, assuming access
> > to reasonable facilities and tools? Thinking of putting a
> > 4kq "header" in and solving the last outstanding mechanical
> > question mark on the '85.
>
>looking briefly at a head on the bench with both manifolds still
>basically rusted onto it, you could pull the EM alone.  If you can get
>at the nuts, turn them, etc.
>
>The rearmost bottom one is a real PITA, no socket will go there, on the
>4kq EM the rear lower two I think require boring wrench turning (1/12
>turn at a time).
>
>there is a boss on the tranny that should be cut off, it will touch the
>4kq DP otherwise.
>
>If you pull the IM first (might as well, right?) go really slowly on
>those bolts - you *do not* want to have to drill them out and they are
>very easy to strip.  Clean them out first (they are allen heads) and
>make sure your tool is seated well.  IF you have have to drill any out
>your life will start to suck.  After you drill the head of the bolt off
>with a 90 degree head drill, you can only slide the IM out about 1/4"
>from the head because in that straight line direction forced by the rest
>of the bolt, the EM is in the way and you have to go in with a sawzall
>or something and cut off the offending bolt near the head.  Fun.  (of
>course by then it might just turn by hand with a long needle nose
>pliers)
>
>this is not to say don't do it, just be careful with some of those
>fasteners.
>
>For the price of a head gasket and bolts, why not do it all with the
>head off the car?
>
>heck might as well pull the block too, oh nevermind
>
>--
>Huw Powell
>
>http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/
>
>82 Audi Coupe; 84 4kq; 85 Coupe GT; 73 F250

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