RE: UR-Q Timing belt BROKE (was: '85 UR-Q Won't Start)

[quk@isham-research.demon.co.uk (Phil Payne)]

In message <LOBBJPOCJCJLNHEGFLBKMEODDAAA.epicfoto@lava.net> "David Thoresen" writes:

> Well I found out that the rotor did not rotate when I tried to start the
> engine,  then I noticed the cam did not rotate either.  Then I looked for
> the timing belt in the window by the timing belt cover... IT WAS GONE...

Guys - this is the _second_ one on the list in a few months, and I know
of two others within the UK club.

Absolute limits (never drive the car further - ever) are 60,000 miles for
the belt, water pump and idler roller, and six years for the belt.

As Jim Haseltine will attest - this is an expen$ive failure.

The following may need slight adaptation for a WR - there's no turbo
water cooling, for instance:

========================================================================

MB/1B engine - cylinder head removal

Drain coolant
Remove oil filter to empty head galleries
[MB] Remove headlight trims, radiator grill, bonnet release cable,  transom & auxiliary radiator
[1B] Remove radiator grill & intercooler
Loosen hydraulic pump pivot bolt, slacken and remove belt, remove adjuster, remove pivot bolt & tie pump out of way
Detach hydraulic pump mounting from head and temporarily re-attach to pump
Remove injector cooling fan deflector, plug wires, plug wire shroud & distributor cap
Unplug Hall sensor
Remove spark plugs
Remove upper cambelt cover & upper securing stud
Turn engine to TDC (cam/distributor) using spanner on cam wheel bolt or #2079 on harmonic balancer bolt
Lock crankshaft with tool #2084
Loosen water pump & rotate to loosen cambelt
Apply cable tie to cambelt below cam gear
Break cam gear bolt loose (80Nm) - use #3036 if available in preference to cable tie
Undo cable tie and pull cambelt off cam gear
Remove cam gear & Woodruff key
[MB] Unplug & unscrew injector cooling fan & turbo after-run water pump from side of block
Unplug control pressure regulator, unbolt from side of block & place on metering head - fuel lines stay attached
Unplug cold start injector, unscrew from manifold & place on metering head
Pull out injectors & place on metering head
Unplug fuel consumption potentiometer & fuel frequency valve, switch on throttle body & cut cable ties to metering head
[MB] Loosely tie detached fuel pipes to metering head, undo fuel feed & return, pull off breather hose, disconnect accordion hose, unclip air filter housing, llift out entire fuel injection system & remove air filter housing
[1B] Remove air filter cover
Tie loose loom back to filter housing bracket
Remove crankcase & cam cover breathers
Disconnect injector cooling fan thermoswitch & remove heatshield & coil grounding strap from cam cover
Remove right CV joint heat shield
Disconnect downpipe from centre exhaust section & detach downpipe from gearbox mounting
Using a 3/8ths drive 13mm six-point socket & a taped UJ, undo wastegate to downpipe nuts - assistant required
Detach both vacuum pipes from wastegate
Unbolt wastegate from exhaust manifold & remove
Undo turbo oil & water connections & remove upper oil line
Detach bracket holding upper turbo water feed from side of block
Detach downpipe from turbo & push aside
Detach turbo to intercooler hose
Detach turbo from manifold & remove from car
Detach accelerator cable
Detach temperature sender wire, wastegate main feed, wastegate control valve feed, ECU feed & differential lock feed from rear of head & manifold
Remove injector air supply hose
Using a mirror and "removal grade" Allen drivers, unscrew and remove inlet manifold
Unbolt top water hose from side of  head
Detach wire from temperature sender below steering pump
Remove cam cover
Slacken head bolts from outside inwards, half turn at a time

--
 Phil Payne
 UK Audi quattro Owners Club
 Phone: 07785 302803   Fax: 0870 0883933