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Re: Audi 5000CD Turbo




> 1. The car will start OK, but will run horribly rough.  You have to
> drive with one foot on the gas and use your other to brake and
> clutch.  If he drives it for about 1-2 minutes, then if he shuts the car
> off, then restarts it, it idles perfect.  You don't need to hold the gas.
>  I was suspecting possible cooling sensor gone bad?  Or am I
> wrong and if so what is the problem?

Sounds like a control pressure regulator.  Check the fuel pressure when it
is trying to warm up and compare it to the specs.  See the Bentleys manual
www.amazon.com


>
> 2.  If you start the car without the headlights on, all dash lights are
> dead.  If you turn the headlights on first, then start it, they work fine.

Fix the burned out license plate lamps.  It can also be the glove box lamp
I've heard.
>
> 3. He can drive the car for hours or minutes as long as it is nice
> and warm.  If he shuts it off, it will always start as long as he
> doesn't wait longer than 10 minutes or so.  Anytime shortly
> afterwards, the car will not start.  It will roll over and over, get fuel,
> but there will be NO spark at all.  If you wait 3-8 hours, depending
> on how cool it is outside, it will start up again.  For example, today,
> he drove it to work (20-40 minute drive), shut it off. Waited 5
> minutes.  It started right up.  Waited 10 minutes and now no spark.
>  4 hours later, still no spark.  But it will start tonight when he leaves
> work like 5-6 hours later.  What could this be???

Could be the control pressure regulator also.  It could also be an improper
mixture adjustment..
>
> 4.  He had a problem with the cold start fuel injector (can't
> remember exactly what) and someone had rigged it up to a switch
> so he could manually switch on this injector.  What problems can
> this cause?

This does not sound too good.  It should be fixed the right way if there is
a problem.
>
> 5.  The front power window swiches won't work.  If you hook up the
> front windows to the rear window switch on the driver's side door
> panel, they work.  Bad switch?

Probably.  It can also be cracked wires in the door jamb.  It is common to
have cracked and shorted wires in the rubber boot in the door jamb.  This
usually means cutting and splicing in new wire piece by piece.


Also see  the web site below.  This site has some very informative info.

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/

Jack







>
> Is there any way to pull fault codes from the vehicle without having
> the dealer do it?  I know some cars flash the check engine light,
> giving out problem codes from the computer.
>
> I know there is more, but I think I have bothered you all too much
> already.  Please either reply back to the digest here or drop me an
> email at golden@qwpage.com
>
> Desperately Yours..
> Craig Golden
>