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How to get more boost-my mods
Ok, 210 hp is gonna be 2.0 bar (roughly and according to others'
estimates).
I use a cockpit adjustable wastegate. I tee'd the bottom line of the wg an
ran a six foot section of vacuum hose in through the interior of the
vehicle on the pass side grommet. My car had an unused one there. Use a
valve of your choice- I use a home depot mini "t" bar valve. The hose
fitting are compression fittings and don't seal well. They are flared
tubes inside nut fittings. What I did was removed the t bar valve (it's
screwed in) and its rubber seals, heat in oven to 150 degrees and mix JB
weld while it's coming up to temp, maybe seven minutes. Remove valve from
oven, apply jb weld. It will flow like liquid solder and set almost
instantly. Has held for two years. You can solder, but the jb was easier
and I didn't get any pin holes.
Plumb this hose onto the vac line run from bottom of wg. Tee off the hose
going to the top of the wg, run another six foot vac hose section to the
interior. The valve goes in between and you now have 2.0 bar capability,
but should you need it, you can close the valve for mileage, valet,
traction, problems. The beauty is that this can be done from inside the
car while driving. there are different dynamic and static setting from
this. I can actually reduce engine boost to 1.1 bar for better traction in
inclement weather.
On mc engines, I suggest shimming the wg spring to get 1.6 bar baseline
(for the best results) or using the Charlie Smith spring. This will give
you variability to the onset of power. As I've mentioned in my previous
posts, the boost basically went from 1.3 bar to 2.0 and I lost traction.
Very unusable power. On quattros, this may not be the case, but drivetrain
shock is sdtill a factor. The remedy was a stiffer spring, believe it or
not. It's actually logical if you think of the pneumatics.
Note: on mc engines: Ok teeing of the top wg line, I found that the
frequency valve was either defective of not allowing boost beyond 1.5. I
disconnected it. I found this interesting because my kh engine (with a
different frequency valve) allowed full boost with the valve plumbed and
connected. This weekend, I'm gonna swap valves and their corresponding
wiring and see what's up.
Make sure your hoses are in good shape! You will blow them on the first
few shifts! I use 3" truck radiator hose for my ic-tb connection. $10
right there. A low restriction exhaust yields absolutely astonishing
results, as well. I basically hollowed the kitty on my old car and ran
straight pipe in place of the center muffler. Raw sound, but
worked...well.
iris.nyit.edu/~sbabbar (no www in address)
This site will show you what the reinforced ic to tb hose looks like.
Make sure you use wide clamps.
Make sure your fuel system is good, fuel and air filters must be clean. i
suggest injector cleaner prior to the mod, thourogh soap and water
cleaning of the intake parts of sludge.
Ingnition must be good and plugs must be new or near new. I've found that
.7mm gap works the best. Bosch silvers give the best top end result, IME.
Reinforce intercooler!!! Go to marine supply and get big hose clamps
Insulate the metal downpipe from the airboot to the intake side of turbo.
Better known as the metal knee. Do this after the mod so you can actually
feel its difference.
OK... (hands clasped) flames?
****************************************************************************
*Steve Sachelle Babbar
*'87 5000CS Turbo 5spd 1.3-2.0 bar <SBABBAR@IRIS.NYIT.EDU>
*Cockpit adjustable wastegate, AudiSport badge
*
*Disclaimer:"Any information contained herein is based purely on my own
*personal experience and may not necessarily reflect yours. Use caution as
*your results may vary from mine."
********************************************************************************
On Tue, 23 Nov 1999, Iain Mannix wrote:
> Steve - I, for one, appreciate your comments. I just bought an 87
> turbo quattro wagon, and I want to increase power moderately - nothing
> silly, but I'd like a little extra. I don't want to compromise
> reliability, durability & I don't want to work on it a lot.
>
> IIRC, the car has 160ish hp stock. If I could get it to 210
> or so, I'd be happy.
>
> How would you go about getting 210ish hp out of one of these without
> spending a million dollars? Is it unrealistic? $800 for a chip +
> spring seems expensive to me - the claimed results are great, but
> it seems to me that I could get similar results for less cash.
>
> I live at altitude(Denver), don't know if that is a consideration.
>
> Thanks for your help & always interesting reading!
>
>
> Iain Mannix
>
> On Tue, 23 Nov 1999, Sachelle Babbar wrote:
>
> >
> > Looks like my posts have been pretty controversial, ie: overfilling oil,
> > turbo wastegate, etc.
> >
> > I really hope that I didn't start a torsen-like thread based on the
> > misunderstanding of listers that have replied to me.
> >
> > I think I'll keep my mouth shut for a while.
> >
> > Happy Thanksgiving, list friends. I'll be away until Saturday. Enjoy the
> > holiday.
> >
> > ****************************************************************************
> > *Steve Sachelle Babbar
> > *'87 5000CS Turbo 5spd 1.3-2.0 bar <SBABBAR@IRIS.NYIT.EDU>
> > *Cockpit adjustable wastegate, AudiSport badge
> > *
> > *Disclaimer:"Any information contained herein is based purely on my own
> > *personal experience and may not necessarily reflect yours. Use caution as
> > *your results may vary from mine."
> > ********************************************************************************
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>