Valve seal replacement finished/tips
Eric Huppert
dragracer at netstep.net
Mon Jan 8 17:46:35 EST 2007
Derek, per your email (and any others interested)
Finished the valve seal job last night...
Lessons learned and things that would have made the job easier (other than
paying someone else):
Parts:
Valve seals
Valve cover gasket
Cam seal (Do not fully seat as you'll block oil return hole!)
throttle body gasket (re-used mine, wasn't able to get one in time)
Cam chain fairly cheap, might as well do it while you have it off! Less
than $50
Intake gasket and water manifold if removed
Electrical cleaner for all electrical connections you touch or have easier
access to
Cap and rotor, easier to get to with TB removed. Ensure you have the right
rotor (Google Audifans!) I ended up with the wrong new one. Rotor in the
car had been cut down to 11mm. Very interesting, probably done with a
dremel! Left the same one in. Cap had oil residue, could have cleaned up but
replaced as access easier
Vacuum lines as needed. Once again, with everything ripped apart much
easier to access
If you still have plastic gear on dist now is the time to replace! Luckily
mine had already been done by PO.
Ideal time to do timing belt, WP, plugs wire etc, etc, if due or needed.
Tools (other than normal hand tools):
Valve spring compressor, one I borrowed was a generic type, but worked
Valve seal pliers, would have gone easier but I was able to carefully split
the lower seal band and grab with needle nose vise grips. Definitely don't
endorse this method! Get the right tool
Valve seal install tool. Another "oh crap". Didn't have it, but 6 pt 1/4"
drive deep 11mm and ext did the trick. Pushed down by hand firmly until
seated. Don't recommend this either! Get, or borrow the tool!
Throttle body requires 5mm allen bit. Had some craftsm at n long t handle
drivers, but I need to invest in the long bits!
Allen head bits for manifold. Didn't remove mine, but if I was to do job
again I'd remove. Can do without removing, no problem, but dist is easier
and I would have liked to replace the coolant manifold gasket
Lessons learned.....
Make sure you beg, borrow, steal the right tools for the job! Should go
without saying, you definitely need decent air compressor to hold valves
shut.
Manifold doesn't need to come off, just take TB loose and with accel cable
still attached lay up on the IM.
You cannot follow the initial torque sequence in Bentley until cam is fully
seated in journals. Tighten gradually and evenly as best you can until
caps all seated. I then backed off and followed sequence.
Distributor... Bentley says to remove, but I left it in.. With IM in it is
still a little difficult to remove! While tightening cam journals (by
hand!!)I watched dist drive gear and cam dist drive gear ("prepositioned for
#1) With my right hand I gently wiggled rotor as gears engaged to ensure
that it didn't bind. Would not do this with a plastic gear, but was fairly
confident with metal gear and "gentle" care.
I am especially cautious when it comes to cam timing, TDC etc. etc. Always
have been, always will, on ANY car! Luckily my paranoia and resulting
plea for help was answered by Chuck P and another. Following link from AW
forum was especially useful, I was indeed one link off. Audi was not so
precise in gear markings. Bentley was also a little vague...Leaves some
room for personal judgment which I don't care for in this situation.
http://forums.audiworld.com/i5/msgs/387.phtml
Whatever you do, make sure cam gear is tight before turning engine. I
normally slip gear and belt on, crank a few revs by hand and verify all
timing marks... Well, this always worked on the 10V's as it uses a separate
steel key. 20V is a cast key on cam gear and as soon as I started turning
engine it wiped the key. Set me back a day waiting for the used one. No
need to chastise, I did a very excellent job humiliating myself already.
Make sure you put the oil fill baffle on the intake, not the exhaust
side... Yes, it would keep the oil off the valve cover on that side, but
not the oil fill cap. Only cost me about five minutes extra as I was
starting to bolt vc down. Baffle is plastic and fairly brittle, careful
This is by no means a comprehensive list or directions. Many have documented
this procedure already, it's just my observations. One of the biggest issues
was the cam gear timing, link above was vital to my quelling my paranoia!
Cheers, Eric
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