Subject: AC Rebuild on 1990 200

[Christopher Ritchie]

Al Powell wrote (in part):

Friends, last week the AC compressor grenaded on my 200

Any comments from those who've BTDT about staying with R-12 vs.
converting to
R-134A?  I've converted a Chevy pickup to R-134A and the system
worked fine.
However,  with the @30% cooling efficiency loss which comes
with R-134,
cooling was nil at idle, but good when moving with traffic.

Also, any comments about how thorough one needs to be with
changing seals,
O-rings, etc. when converting?  I didn't go through the seals
when converting
the Chevy, but that's not an Audi...with all its perversity.
personally I'm
inclined to think that the system doesn't have to be gone
through, as small
leaks could be tolerated and R-134A is cheap.  However, Audis
don't have a
"top off" function - the AC needs to be discharged before being
re-charged.
I don't need to get into frequent system re-charges.

Instinct tells me to keep the system the way it was designed and
stay with
R-12, but I'm open to discussion from those who've tried it.
Replies
directly to me are encouraged.

Also - I'm checking parts sources for compressor, clutch and
dryer.  I will
check Blaufergnugen and Linda at Carlsen - anyone else have
great sources
they want to suggest?


I went to R-134a because I can buy that and recharge myself.  With an old 
evaporator, condenser, and hoses, I figured there would be pinhole leaks.  I 
also replaced all the "O" rings.  It's easy and cheap.  I got them all at 
carparts.com.  Compressors are expensive.  Blau had the best price I found.  
The cheapest price I found on a dryer was at hancockindustries.com.  Don't 
forget to replace the restrictor valve.  Remove it before flushing.

On the difference between a Chevy and an Audi with R-134a.  Mine cools fine 
at idle.  Don't forget that with the Audi, the fan is always on when the A/C 
is on.  So air is pulled through the condenser at idle when the car is 
stationary.

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