switch LEDs replaced, still NG

[Kent McLean]

Fred Munro wrote:
>If that is an original switch, those are light bulbs (mit filaments), not
>LEDs.

When I apply juice to the leads, they are polarity
sensitive. That is, I put the + voltage to one side
(and - to the other), they light. Put the + voltage
to the other side, they don't light. So I assume it's
and LED (or there is a diode also buried in that tiny
bulb).


>On the fog light switch, the lower bulbs only light when the switch is in
>the "ON" position, otherwise the bulb circuit is open.

Yup. Switch is depressed (on) when the lights should
light but don't. I have the original bulbs that work
if I need to put them back. But I'm not getting juice,
so I figure that's the problem.


>The red switch illumination bulb is always on.

I think the red is on only with the headlights.

>Did you try pushing the switch "ON" to see if the lower bulbs lit?

Yes. On, Off, it doesn't matter.

>The other problem with these switches is that the contacts are lubed with
>some green goop at the factory. This gets hard with age and insulates the
>contacts. You have to open the switch and clean it off the get the
>contacts working again - this includes the contacts for the lower set of bulbs.

Since the switch is toast, I have nothing to loose
by opening it up. But how?

There are little white tabs on either side of the
switch housing. But I pressed hard and they didn't
budge.

There are some vertical tabs on the PC board that
look like they locate the PC boardd to the switch.
Do you need to unsolder them to release the PC
board?

I managed to mangle the side of the casing in my
effort. Now that I have a hole in the side, can I
just spray contact cleaner through the hole?

Thanks,
Kent McLean
'89 200 TQ, "Bad Puppy"