still more 90tq advice needed

[JShadzi at aol.com]

Ed, randomly turning the CO adjustment is not a good idea...in order to get anywhere towards getting your car running properly, you need to ensure that all your settings are to spec.

[assuming you're running the CIS-3 system]

Sounds like you've double checked your ignition timing (should be about 15 degrees Before TDC), have you ensured that the cam and crank are aligned properly?  Make sure to use the flywheel mark and not the crank pulley as its not reliable.  Then check the CO properly by measuring the amperage betweem the terminals of the Differential Pressure Regulator (gray box screwed to the side of the fuel distributor), it should be 0mA at idle.  When you do this follow the Bentley procedure, ensure your O2 sensor is disconnected and that your crankcase ventilation is clamped off.  Also, at this point, I'd just remove the bypass valve and block off the opening, even clamped it can be leaking a small amount of air.  Also, if you're using the turbo TB, make sure the idle bypass screw is all the way turned in, and that you have a little dab of RTV over the opening to ensure its not leaking.

Also, even though your check engine light is not on, ensure that you don't have any codes, try running the codes, if you get four long blinks then you're ok.  Ensure that you have your potentiometer (3-wire connector on side of airflow plate) connected, and that you're using the proper NG temp sensor and that it in fact has the right resistance.

CIS systems are very sensitive to any change in the inputs, one missing or bad sensor can send your car into a limp home mode that will cause it to act as you describe.

Lemme know if you have any questions.

Best,
Javad
80tq.com


>
>Hey folks,
>
>I thought I was making progress with this beast but
>I've still have mucho problems. There is still smoke
>coming from the car even after an extented warm-up and
>the spark plugs are always black upon inspection.
>
>Things improved when I removed the bypass valve from
>the system by clamping the valve inlets and outlets
>shut. There is now a steady idle, but the car misses
>and hestitates on accleration. I actually leaned out
>the CIS mixture one turn and it helped the idle
>somewhat but still smokes.
>
>I've tripled checked timing and vacuum connections and
>everything seems OK. Removing the dip stick or oil cap
>briefly affects the idle so I think this should
>indicate that there are no air leaks (?). The air
>sensor plate has nice smooth action and does not seem
>to stick. I haven't checked the spray pattern of the
>fuel injectors but they worked so well on the original
>NG engine I can't see them being bad, They have new
>seals. Once thing I also noticed is the carbon
>canister solenoid clicks like crazy but no check
>engine light comes or anything like that.
>
>What really concerns me now its that there is black
>oil dripping out the downpipe (exhaust is not
>competely tied together yet). Where could this come
>from? Are the turbo seals shot and could this affect
>mixture (I verfied that the donor did not smoke at
>idle when I first bought it)?
>
>....I've never seen a I-5 run this bad, the car can
>barely drive 100 yards! Mike, wanna come by next
>weekend and have a go at it ;)
>
>=====
>-ed
>
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