rekeying locks in a type 44

[Mike Arman]

Rekeying locks in a type 44 is no real big deal as long as you match them
to the ignition switch, which IS a big deal - taking out the ignition lock
cylinder isn't something I want to do.

The door handles, trunk lock and glove box lock are easy.

Here's how you do it -

Visit a junkyard and get some lock cylinders - pick and pulls are great for
this, since you can get all kinds of tiny bits for next to nothing. They
don't even have to match, or be from the same model Audi as yours, because
you are going to fix that.

The door locks are in the door handles, which are removed with a
screwdriver (and you need some spares, anyway, right?), the trunk lock
comes off the car in ten seconds - a pair of 5mm allen screws hold it in
place.

Start with one of the door locks, and remove the lock cylinder from the
junkyard door handle. We're going to learn our way around this stuff on
junkyard parts, not your very own car! Pay attention to the orientation of
the levers, and if you have the factory alarm system, pay extra close
attention, because I understand that this has to go back exactly right or
it won't work.

Take a shallow bowl and put some mineral spirits in it, then slosh the lock
cylinder around in it for a while. You'll be amazed at the accumulated crud
that comes off. Slowly withdraw the inner cylinder, and be careful that the
springs don't pop the tumblers out - and they probably won't because these
are often totally gummed up, and the only reason they work at all is
because the key is slightly harder than the accumulated goo!

If I recall correctly, the door lock assemblies are held together with a
screw, and the trunk lock is held together with a roll pin. A pair of
long-nose pliers takes the roll pin right out.


What we want to do is extract the stamped brass wafers which are the
tumblers, which look like squeezed, skinny letter "O"s, with flat sides,
and also the even smaller springs that move them around. Wash them well,
and get everything clean.

Now examine the lock parts. The way these work is when there is no key in
the keyhole, the springs push the wafers into the notch in the inside of
the outer barrel, so the inner barrel can't turn, and the lock thus won't
unlock. When the key is inserted, it pushes the wafers back slightly,
depending on the cut of the key, so the tops of the wafers are exactly
flush with the inner barrel, and then it will turn. Note that if you use
the wrong key, it may push some of the wafers too far so they extend out
the other side, and some not far enough, so they never retract out of the
outer barrel's notch.

The goal here is to mix and match the wafers in the slots so that when YOUR
ignition key is inserted, all of them line up exactly flush with the
surface of the inner barrel. This is the other reason you got some extra
lock cylinders - some of the wafers will not work (wrong size) no matter
where you put them, and some of the little spings will be rusty, and you'll
need extras.

With a little practice, you'll be able to see the differences between the
wafers - the rectangular slot on the inside is higher or lower in the
wafer, so it moves the wafer more or less when the key is inserted.

Do one at a time, and when you find the wafer that comes out just right,
lay it on a clean sheet of paper, in the correct position. It shouldn't
take more than five minutes to do each lock if you have enough spare parts.

Once you have selected the correct wafers, put them all in place (with the
springs) and re-assemble the inner cylinder to the outer barrel. Lubricate
with graphite, and try it out. You'll be amazed how easily the lock now
works! Now install it in your car, and go on to the next one.

As I recall, there are ten different sizes for the wafers, times seven
slots, so there are quite a few possible key combinations available. Don't
get lazy and leave some of the wafers out if you can't find one that fits -
that will work, but it does compromise the security of the lock.

This is really no big deal, and you should easily be able to do a lock an
hour the first time, and faster with a little practice. Also, you are most
likely to break things on the first try or two, and that is when you'll be
working on the junkyard parts, so it is no real loss or problem. (Good idea
- if you have to take something apart for the first time, tear it apart on
a car in the pick-and-pull, so if you screw it up, it doesn't matter.)

And while you are getting door handles, get some of the plastic ball ends
for the actuator rods in the doors, too . . .

This is also THE time to buy the rubber pads that go under the door
handles, and the rubber grommet that surrounds the trunk lock. Buy these
new, because the ones in the junkyard will be in the same condition yours
are (or worse).


Best Regards,

Mike Arman