Aligment question

[Ado Sigal]

  Denis wrote:

>I know i can go to a garage to make the job for me but i m suffering from a disease ;-) it 'i want to try it myself first ' ;-)
>
>So my 100Q tend to go tot the right ( used the 5000TQ of on dise and 100Q to the other side, i mesured it and seems to be identical on both side).
>
>I tried to screw the right tie rod end to turn the right wheel inside, but nothing changed.
>
>I notice the left wheel looks like the top goes inside the car, not as the right one,,, suppose to be smilar or identical on both side. I dont see any accident distortion or any bad parts, so i m asking what would make the left wheel to be that way. I m sure it affect the car to tend to right.
>
>thanks
>
>Ðenis
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>  
>
Denis, your attitude is right, but you must have at least simple camber 
gauge like this one: 
(http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/catalogue/product_detail.asp?CLS=MSPORT&TLGRP=M005&CODE=&PGRP=MP072&GRP=MP072&PCODE=ADACG)
 and spirit level confirmed floor surface, (or at least established 
floor lean, to be able to compensate the camber), plus two 2-3 meters 
long strong extrusion profiles for toe adjustment. I have alu "L" 
extrusions and two cheap laser beam spirit levels fixed into L slots. It 
works superbly, but its a long job indeed, and without ramp a good bit 
harder and very much longer.  You already started wrong with adjusting 
tie rod (you should return it to previous position), since one should do 
mechanical adjustments to the subframe first, since they cam move (which 
is usual on all VAGs') and this movement changes camber and castor, 
while toe doesn't change until there is a mechanical damage or wear in 
steering linkage. However, if you really want to do it, start by 
inspecting the sub bushes and realigning the subframes. All subs are 
adjustable up to 3 mm in each direction (12-15 mm at b/ball joint end), 
although on most VAG models the sub rotates around one bolt (rear/left 
bolt on Urq), which has fixed captive nut. This can be achieved by 
measuring the distance between the wheel arch floor line and disc or 
tire, or b/b/jiont. The castor adjustment done, you align the subs 
horizontally (for those subs that have all bolts adjustable), by 
adjusting the distance between the edge of the body and sub's outer edge 
(same at rear), to make it the same distance. This alters  camber on 
both sides equally. Note if adjustment on the b/ball joint is 
symmetrical on both sides (hole within slot), and if the b/joint clamp 
bolts are tight. If you find that the difference is more than 1-2 mm, 
and it corresponds to visual camber difference, you can make it same. 
Now take the car for a short ride to settle everything, and the car is 
ready for final camber, and only then final toe adjustment, but for this 
you are going to need at least those basic instruments I mentioned, or 
take it to the shop just for that. If not, keep within max permissible 
camber, and zero toe front and back (if you find the steering bit to 
alive, dial 5-15 minutes toe in). Parallelism ot he rear wheels with the 
body is also very important. Providing that all of the factors are 
exactly spot on, and there in no worn susp. parts, you should have a car 
that handles superbly on any surface. Also very important is to settle 
the susp. after every lift, and since you have no sliding plates, should 
keep one large multy page newspaper/magazine under each wheel to 
facilitate susp settling, or move the car forward and backward for at 
least one wheel revolution, before each measurement.

Good luck, HTH,

Ado