Rear brake advice after new pad install

[iain.atkinson at tesco.net]

Thanks Mark and everyone, after taking it all part this pm, the pads were too tight on the carriers, i have now taken off the paint and little file of the pad backing plate, re grease it now seems fine as it should be, i did back off the   piston a little in the caliper and then gently before applying the handbarke push the brake pedal. The handbrake now feels normal rather than just too tight.

i should point out that i did use non audi pads, i wonder if this was the problem???

iain
> 
> From: Mark R <speedracer.mark at gmail.com>
> Date: 2006/02/06 Mon PM 02:19:03 GMT
> To: "iain.atkinson at tesco.net" <iain.atkinson at tesco.net>
> CC: kyle leatherwood <kyle_leatherwood at hotmail.com>,  quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: RE: Rear brake advice after new pad install
> 
> This would be a classic symptom of calipers and/or pads not being "knocked
> back."  First, the caliper sliders on a floating caliper need proper
> assembly lubrication.  Are the guide pins within specifications?  If not,
> the calipers will "drag" on the pins not fully releasing the brakes.  ALWAYS
> relubricate the guide pins if so equipped.  Simply clean them with a rag,
> inspect for pitting, corrosion, or deformation, and repack with new grease.
> 
> Also, the pad to bracket or pad to caliper (floating or fixed caliper
> design) interferance is fairly critical.  Too loose, and you'll get noise,
> too tight and they can't move as designed.  Also, the pad contact surfaces
> should also get a light coat of assembly lubrication (NOT on the friction
> surface, or "pad face").  The pads need to slide.  If you need a hammer to
> put them into place, either the mouting surface is corroded, or more likely,
> the pad backing plate is slightly oversized and needs filing or belt
> sanding.
> 
> I personally use Permatex high-temperature synthetic assembly lube.
> 
> As an aside, knock back is critical for braking performance and cooling,
> especially with track useage.  .001-.003" total runout (hub/rotor runout
> versus the caliper) is often all that's required, but a true .000" runout
> won't knock back the pads away from the rotor face.
> 
> I hope this helps,
> Mark Rosenkrantz (who does a lot of brake education with his Stoptech
> customers)
> 
>