5 seconds of cranking to start

[cobram at juno.com]

For the same money you can get one from BMP which is easier to use and
has all the adapters:

http://www.bmpdesign.com/product-exec/product_id/447/search_year/1983/se

Back to the original problem...on the turbos the injectors/seals are
almost always the culprit. Chances are good the injectors are long
overdue for replacement.  It's normal for the turbo to take up to 2.5
revolutions to start, Phil the UR guru said it takes those first couple
turns for the ECU to figure out what's going on before it'll let the
engine run. 

BCNU,
http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/
I live on a one-way street that's also a dead end. I'm not sure how I got
here, or how I'm going to get out.
 

"frank j. bauer" <frankbauer at thevine.net> writes:
> a quite serviceable cis pressure test kit is available at jc whitney 
> for 
> $60 plus the usual:
>
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:20081
26/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2008126/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-1
0101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=cis+fuel+pressure+gauge
 
> cody at 5000tq.com wrote:
> > Grant that would not work on a 5ktq. They only run the fuel pump 
> when  
> > the engine is turning, whether by the starter or by running of 
> course.
> > 
> > Jeff, this is not 'normal' for your car, but not uncommon at all 
> among  
> > CIS fuled cars. Grant's suggestion of the leaking check valve is a 
>  
> > likely culprit, as are the fuel pressure accumulator, o-ring on 
> the  
> > pressure by-pass piston in the fuel distributor, warm-up  
> > regulator/differential pressure regulator, and leaking injectors.
> > 
> > Diagnosing this issue without a CIS pressure gauge set can be 
> tricky.  
> > Start by watching carefully for a puff of white smoke when 
> starting.  
> > This would hint at leaky injectors. Next you could install a fuse 
> in  
> > the top of the fuel pump relay, which would put the car in 
> diagnostic  
> > mode and make the fuel pump run any time the ignition is on. Now  
> 
> > Grant's test is valid - when it's cold like it normally would be 
> you  
> > turn the key on and just let the pump run for a few seconds, then 
> try  
> > to start. If it starts right away, or at least faster then usual, 
> then  
> > we have determined that you have a problem with fuel pressure 
> leakage.  
> >  From there it is hard to diagnose without a gauge set, so you may 
>  
> > want to either purchase one or visit a friendy shop that is 
> properly  
> > equipped. You *could* try removing the fuel injectors (engine not  
> 
> > running) and look for leakage, but from there it's all guesses 
> without  
> > a gauge set.
>  
> > -Cody Forbes
> > http://www.5000tq.com
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Quoting Grant Lenahan <glenahan at vfemail.net>:
> > 
> >> Uncommon.  But the real question is "did something change?"
> >>
> >> I have foudn that long cranking can be a sign of a weak fuel pump 
> or
> >> leaking check valve. On older cars, try this:
> >>
> >> 1. turn key to run, listen for fuel pump.
> >> 2. after 3-5 sec, start car
> >>
> >> Did it catch faster?
> >>
> >> Grant
> >> On Oct 7, 2007, at 10:00 PM, JeffreyZentner at aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >>> Hi All
> >>> I have a question I have a 88 5KTQ and when I start it when it 
> is cold
> >>> it
> >>> takes about 5 seconds of cranking to start it. It always starts 
> but it
> >>> seams like
> >>> that is a lot of creaking is this normal or do I have a 
> problem?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Jeff Zentner
> >>> Alta CA
> >>>
> >>> 88 5KTQ