1984 4k - no start

[Bares, Vittorio]

I cleaned up the grounds - put 2 new grounds in, one direct from the
batt to the valve cover and one from the valve cover to the body up
front.

Started, ran better - but still had a very slight hesitation when
cruising. So I thought I'd clean up the contacts on the coil its self -
busted one of the posts :( - but I had a new coil that I had bought and
had tested with.

The new coil had a slightly different set of posts for the (-) neg side
- so I switched them.

Now I have no-start again...so I thought, let me see if I'm getting
anything to the distributor - I don't really understand how the power
flows to the/from the coil/distributor - but I thought that if I put a
test light on the wire that goes to the distributor I'd see it light up
- I don't. 

Should it?

Vittorio -

-----Original Message-----
From: john at westcoastgarage.net [mailto:john at westcoastgarage.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 6:17 PM
To: Robert Rossato
Cc: 'Brett Dikeman'; Bares, Vittorio; quattro at audifans.com
Subject: Re: 1984 4k - no start

Robert Rossato wrote:
> I'm assuming Brett was referring to replacing the hall sensor element
> itself.  Depends on how handy you are, but shouldn't be all too
> difficult.
>
> An example of cost:
>
http://www.bbautomacao.com/products.asp?cat=14&gclid=CObMnrCnjZwCFSDxDAo
> dgCJOYw
>
> Never looked at the hall sensor in the distributor, so not sure if any
> of these are the right ones but the HME301 is used as the Cam Position
> Sensor on the AAN.  If you do go this way get the versions with hollow
> rivets for ease of installation.
>
> Bob
>
>   
>> As the problem is nearly always the wiring inside the distributor,
I'm wondering whether or not the low bucks unit comes with wiring, and
if that wiring is appropriate for this application in terms of diameter
and resistance to flex damage.  John
>>