quattro Digest, Vol 81, Issue 10

tom at tomwintermedia.com tom at tomwintermedia.com
Mon Jul 5 06:53:13 PDT 2010


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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: 100/200 Headlight Relay Harness (Dag B?sterud)
>    2. Re: 89 Audi 90 stumbling (Tony Hoffman)
>    3. Re: 100/200 Headlight Relay Harness (Kent McLean)
>    4. Re: 89 Audi 90 stumbling (Huw Powell)
>    5. Re: 89 Audi 90 stumbling (Huw Powell)
>    6. Re: 100/200 Headlight Relay Harness (kneale at knitknacks.com)
>    7. Re: 89 Audi 90 stumbling (Mark Rutherford)
>    8. 1988 90Q sunroof issue (Huw Powell)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 21:12:49 +0200
> From: Dag B?sterud <dag.boesterud at consulgranada.net>
> Subject: Re: 100/200 Headlight Relay Harness
> To: <wadd-wadd at usa.net>,	<quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <003801cb1bac$e4de2640$6400a8c0 at dagc22fb907b23>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
>
> http://audi100.net/Forum_/Shop/shop.html
>
> This guy sells a really good harness. Used it on my 92 V8 4,2 and when I
> purchased my 90 100 TQ Sport, I bought another from him.
> You plug it into the main fuse box, so you don't mess up the autocheck or
>  anything.
>
>  Take a look under "Beleuchtung & Licht Updates:"
>
>  /Dag
>  1990 Audi 100 TQ Sport Exklusiv
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <wadd-wadd at usa.net>
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 2:38 PM
> Subject: 100/200 Headlight Relay Harness
>
>
>> I'd like to buy a harness to relay my headlights.
>>
>> Would any of you recommend sellers that sell quality harnesses?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> quattro mailing list
>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
>> http://www.audifans.com/kb/List_information
>>
>
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 14:33:47 -0500
> From: Tony Hoffman <auditony at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: 89 Audi 90 stumbling
> To: Mark Rutherford <mark.rutherford at emerytelcom.net>
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID:
> 	<AANLkTilaHcaAFA549SeB0npwu4OERKXKZL3Sw9Rf8ute at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> I usually pull them apart by the bottom, simply pulling the roll pin
> out. Don't know that I've ever taken one off the top that wasn't
> keyed. The interchange on the dizzys is usually simply determined by
> how many windows there are in the disc. So, if they both have one, you
> should be good.
>
> Tony
>
> On Sun, Jul 4, 2010 at 11:50 AM, Mark Rutherford
> <mark.rutherford at emerytelcom.net> wrote:
>> Checked the hall sender plug, looked good. ?Decided to change the
>> distributor to see if it produced a change in behavior. ?Pulled the one
>> from
>> my parts car and found one of the wires had broken off the plug. ?I then
>> decided to change the pick up in the distributor. ?Pulled the shaft on
>> the
>> old one, put the new one in the press and removed it. ?In my haste I did
>> not
>> get a reference mark between the windowed disk and the shaft. ?Anyone
>> have a
>> picture of a NG distributor, or is there a mark I can not see. ?I also
>> have
>> several MC distributors on hand. ?Are these interchangeable?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Mark
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 16:56:58 -0400
> From: Kent McLean <kentmclean at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: 100/200 Headlight Relay Harness
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <4C30F59A.50207 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> wadd-wadd at usa.net wrote:
>> I'd like to buy a harness to relay my headlights.
>> Would any of you recommend sellers that sell quality harnesses?
>
> Years ago I got one for my '89 200 from www.blauparts.com that I
> was happy with, but I couldn't find it on their web site.  It may
> be a lack of demand.
>
> --
> Kent McLean
> 1990 V8 w/5-speed and other mods
> 1991 200 TQA #3, with mods
> 1999 A4 Avant, V6 Tiptronic
> gone: '91 200 TQA x2, '94 100 S Avant, '89 200 TQ "Bad Puppy"
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 18:48:03 -0400
> From: Huw Powell <audi at humanspeakers.com>
> Subject: Re: 89 Audi 90 stumbling
> To: Mark Rutherford <mark.rutherford at emerytelcom.net>, 	audifans
> 	<quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <4C310FA3.7040906 at humanspeakers.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>
>
> On 7/4/2010 10:20 AM, Mark Rutherford wrote:
>> Changed the ECU with the one from the parts car.  The behavior of the
>> car
>> did not change.  However the check engine light did start working at
>> this
>> point. What pointed you to a bad ECU on your car.  Is corrosion on the
>> terminals a problem on the 90.
>
> My bad ECU was a long time ago so I don't really remember, but the
> diagnosis would either have been a quick test at the pressure actuator,
> or a simple "swap and see".
>
> The corrosion problem I have is rather unique - I never truly "swapped"
> the ECU, I just left it hanging by the harness/connector.  Then when my
> heater core let go this spring, some of the coolant ran down the wiring
> and into the connector.  There's just one socket that looks icky, and I
> now have to start it two or three times when its warm (!) to get it to
> run properly.
>
> But I don't really care to fix it since I'll be porting over to a "new"
> one as soon as I get its sunroof closed... oh yeah, that reminds me, I
> need to post a question about that...
>
> Oh, and try unplugging the knock sensor.  What are the exact stumble
> conditions?
>
>> Thanks
>> Mark
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Huw Powell [mailto:one at humanspeakers.com]
>> Sent: Sunday, July 04, 2010 12:12 AM
>> To: Mark Rutherford
>> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
>> Subject: Re: 89 Audi 90 stumbling
>>
>> ECU connection?  ECU bad? (btdt)
>>
>> On 7/3/2010 8:22 PM, Mark Rutherford wrote:
>>> I have a 1989 Audi 90 that has developed a hesitation.  I own several
>> Audi's
>>> and have done all of my own repairs for over a decade.  However on this
>> one
>>> I am stumped.  I hope the group can give me some ideas about where to
>>> turn
>>> next.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> History:
>>>
>>> About 5 years ago I install a manual transmission to replace a failed
>>> Automatic.   Drove the car for about a year no problems.  The car sat
>>> for
>>> about 4 years after that.  This spring I decided to sell the car.  To
>>> get
>>> the car started I installed a old fuel pump I had, and fixed a vacuum
>>> lead
>>> in the intake boot.  Car ran fine for about a month.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Symptoms:
>>>
>>> Car will be running fine and then loose power and shake under
>>> acceleration
>>> then recover and run fine.  The problem has become more frequent with
>> time.
>>> It will not do it when it is cold but will start to before it reaches
>>> full
>>> temperature.  It will happen repeatedly when making a right turn.  Will
>>> sometimes do it when driving straight.  Rarely does it turning left.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Repairs done so far:
>>>
>>> When investigating the problem found that there was no bulb in the
>>> check
>>> engine light.  Installed one and tried to pull codes.  Check engine
>>> light
>>> will turn on when jumping diagnostic  connector, but will not flash
>>> codes.
>>> Placed LED in diagnostic connector with appropriate resistor, no codes.
>> Put
>>> a volt meter across the connector and found the ECU was producing codes
>> but
>>> at a voltage of 1.5 volts, I do not know if this is normal for this car
>> but
>>> I do not believe it is.  Also noticed small unchanging voltage from o2
>>> sensor ( .2 volts ).  Adjusting the mixture produced no change in o2
>>> reading.  Replaced o2 sensor.  No change in problem or o2 readings.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 1.       From the pulses on the volt meter found a code for the knock
>>> sensor.  The insulation on the cable was rotted away and in general bad
>>> condition.  Replaced with new sensor torqued to 22 Nm.  No change in
>>> problem, ECU produces 4444
>>>
>>> 2.       The used fuel pump was making noise, replaced with new one, no
>>> change.  Also replaced fuel filter.  Read an article in the archive
>>> about
>> a
>>> strainer on the fuel head that can become plugged.  Removed it per
>>> archive
>>> suggestion.  Still no change in problem, ECU 4444.  The car will run
>>> fine
>>> under full load in high gear up hill for several minutes.  This leads
>>> me
>> to
>>> believe the fuel system is capable of delivering the amount of fuel
>> needed.
>>>
>>> 3.       Since I have a parts car I changed.
>>>
>>> a.        The coil, No change
>>>
>>> b.      Installed additional ground wires from the battery to the
>>> intake
>>> manifold, engine, body and bell housing.
>>>
>>> c.       Coolant Temp sensor - No change
>>>
>>> d.      Fuel distributor including - No change
>>>
>>>                                                                  i.
>> Fuel
>>> head
>>>
>>>                                                                ii.
>>> Potentiometer
>>>
>>>                                                               iii.
>>> Differential pressure regulator
>>>
>>>                                                              iv.
>>> Fuel
>>> pressure regulator
>>>
>>> e.      All of the o2 sensors I have seen produce a voltage that
>>> changes
>>> from about .4  to .6 volts.  This one produces a steady voltage between
>>> 0
>>> and .5 volts depending on the mixture.  Adjusting the mixture full rich
>>> until the motor dies still produces a reading of .5 volts.  Install a
>>> new
>> O2
>>> sensor same results as above.   The above happens plugged in on not.
>>> This
>>> part still makes no sense to me.
>>>
>>> f.        Changed ignition computer - No change
>>>
>>> g.       Changed fuel computer - no change in problem , but the check
>> engine
>>> light works as it should.
>>>
>>> h.      Checked wiring from All data CD and diagnostic procedures.  No
>>> problems found.
>>>
>>> i.         The car had a exhaust leak, thought that it could be pulling
>>> in
>>> air and effecting the o2 reading.   Repaired the leaks - problem still
>>> there.  O2 still behaving strangely.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I really do not know where to go next.  Only things out of the ordinary
>> are
>>> O2 sensor reading, and check engine light with original computer.  I
>>> have
>>> not check fuel pressure, due to lack of tools.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for any help
>>>
>>> Mark Rutherford
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> quattro mailing list
>>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
>>> http://www.audifans.com/kb/List_information
>>>
>>
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 18:55:22 -0400
> From: Huw Powell <audi at humanspeakers.com>
> Subject: Re: 89 Audi 90 stumbling
> To: Mark Rutherford <mark.rutherford at emerytelcom.net>
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com, 'Tony Hoffman' <auditony at gmail.com>
> Message-ID: <4C31115A.7060109 at humanspeakers.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
>
>
> On 7/4/2010 12:50 PM, Mark Rutherford wrote:
>> Checked the hall sender plug, looked good.  Decided to change the
>> distributor to see if it produced a change in behavior.  Pulled the one
>> from
>> my parts car and found one of the wires had broken off the plug.  I then
>> decided to change the pick up in the distributor.  Pulled the shaft on
>> the
>> old one, put the new one in the press and removed it.  In my haste I did
>> not
>> get a reference mark between the windowed disk and the shaft.  Anyone
>> have a
>> picture of a NG distributor, or is there a mark I can not see.  I also
>> have
>> several MC distributors on hand.  Are these interchangeable?
>
> There should be a TDC mark on the upper outside edge of the housing,
> visible with cap off.  Rotor should point at it when camshaft is at TDC
> (crank might get you off 180).  Then fine tune with timing light.
>
> The crude version is that the rotor should point at the #1 spark wire at
> TDC.
>
> The MC is a one-window set up versus five, so, no compatibility.
>
> And as I said in other mail, try unplugging the knock sensor.
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 19:33:19 -0400
> From: "kneale at knitknacks.com" <kneale at knitknacks.com>
> Subject: Re: 100/200 Headlight Relay Harness
> To: kentmclean at comcast.net,  quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <380-22010704233319372 at M2W110.mail2web.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
>
> I make my own with a fused power supply to four relays, one for each side
> high beams and one for each side lows.  Last couple cost me maybe $25-30
> each.
>
> Original Message:
> -----------------
> From: Kent McLean kentmclean at comcast.net
> Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 16:56:58 -0400
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: 100/200 Headlight Relay Harness
>
>
> wadd-wadd at usa.net wrote:
>> I'd like to buy a harness to relay my headlights.
>> Would any of you recommend sellers that sell quality harnesses?
>
> Years ago I got one for my '89 200 from www.blauparts.com that I
> was happy with, but I couldn't find it on their web site.  It may
> be a lack of demand.
>
> --
> Kent McLean
> 1990 V8 w/5-speed and other mods
> 1991 200 TQA #3, with mods
> 1999 A4 Avant, V6 Tiptronic
> gone: '91 200 TQA x2, '94 100 S Avant, '89 200 TQ "Bad Puppy"
>
> _______________________________________________
> quattro mailing list
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
> http://www.audifans.com/kb/List_information
>
> --
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 18:06:09 -0600
> From: Mark Rutherford <mark.rutherford at emerytelcom.net>
> Subject: Re: 89 Audi 90 stumbling
> To: "audi at humanspeakers.com" <audi at humanspeakers.com>
> Cc: "quattro at audifans.com" <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <C5F1533C-2695-4EE8-A662-6AD7211F1D69 at emerytelcom.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset=us-ascii
>
> Did the knock sensor thing first.  Made no difference.  It was in general
> poor condition so I replaced it.  Made no change.  The one window thing
> explains why it will not start with MC distributor.
>
> I documented the symptom in my original e-mail.  The short version is:
>
> As an example approach a 90 degree right turn, decelerate and shift down.
> Pressing the gas results in nothing, (feels like no fuel or timing is
> retarded),after about 2 seconds it will shake then catch it's self at
> about 3000 RPM.
>
> Thanks
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jul 4, 2010, at 4:55 PM, Huw Powell <audi at humanspeakers.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> On 7/4/2010 12:50 PM, Mark Rutherford wrote:
>>> Checked the hall sender plug, looked good.  Decided to change the
>>> distributor to see if it produced a change in behavior.  Pulled the one
>>> from
>>> my parts car and found one of the wires had broken off the plug.  I
>>> then
>>> decided to change the pick up in the distributor.  Pulled the shaft on
>>> the
>>> old one, put the new one in the press and removed it.  In my haste I
>>> did not
>>> get a reference mark between the windowed disk and the shaft.  Anyone
>>> have a
>>> picture of a NG distributor, or is there a mark I can not see.  I also
>>> have
>>> several MC distributors on hand.  Are these interchangeable?
>>
>> There should be a TDC mark on the upper outside edge of the housing,
>> visible with cap off.  Rotor should point at it when camshaft is at TDC
>> (crank might get you off 180).  Then fine tune with timing light.
>>
>> The crude version is that the rotor should point at the #1 spark wire at
>> TDC.
>>
>> The MC is a one-window set up versus five, so, no compatibility.
>>
>> And as I said in other mail, try unplugging the knock sensor.
>>
>> --
>> Huw Powell
>>
>> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi
>>
>> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 21:35:31 -0400
> From: Huw Powell <audi at humanspeakers.com>
> Subject: 1988 90Q sunroof issue
> To: audifans <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <4C3136E3.5030604 at humanspeakers.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> So, I've got this nice "new" car which I'll be switching over to as soon
> as I resolve one teeny issue: the sunroof is stuck open.
>
> Something stops it from sliding forward, leaving about a 2" gap.  It
> also seems to be incapable of opening all the way.  Right now as it
> sits, water doesn't get into the car because 1. there's a wind deflector
> over the gap and 2. the car is is on slightly sloping ground.
>
>  From my exploration of the Bentley, it "appears" that the entire
> sunroof assembly is bolted to the roof.  Does anyone know if this is
> true, because if so I could pull it and bring it inside and try to fix
> it on the bench.
>
> I don't mind pulling the headliner, since that's one of the many things
> I have to swap over anyway.  I might end up swapping over the entire
> setup if necessary.
>
> Any ideas, btdts, photos, etc. would be appreciated!
>
> PS, ironically, when I "test drove" it, the sunroof worked just fine,
> although it didn't to want to "stop" automatically between tilt and
> slide motion.  But I have spare parts if that ends up being an issue.  I
> have *lots* of spare parts.
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> quattro mailing list
> quattro at audifans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
>
>
> End of quattro Digest, Vol 81, Issue 10
> ***************************************
>
>



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