Would NG engine mate to 4KQ tranny/chassis?

[Huw Powell]

> So to be clear I could easily put a hybrid then by:
>
> Mating NG block and its internals to a JT head, exhaust and intake
> manifolds hooked to JT's CIS-e and ECU as well as the stock JT's
> flywheel/pressure plate and clutch disk and through-out bearing?.

Yes, the head would bolt to the block, but you have no idea what the 
compression ratio or displacement will be.  Some i5s have more 
combustion chamber in the head, others in the block.

You are far better off getting an NF out of a 5 speed '87 or so 5k. 
That will drop in, CIS-E will run it fine or you can add the 
knock-sensing ignition controller.

The NG out of an automatic just creates far too many questions and 
problems for the "value" of the upgrade.

Now, FWIW, I have driven a handful of n/a i5 cars, usually with quite 
old engines - >150k is the norm (my coupe was young when I bought it at 
146k), and at this age they vary a *lot* in performance.

I have seen a JT 4kq that was easily as strong as my black 90Q, though 
most aren't.  My grey 90Q is *noticeably* faster than the black one, 
mostly on the top end - the first time I had to mat it pulling onto the 
local 55 mph highway I barely had time to shift, it seemed - it got to 
redline before I expected it to.

Factor that in.  What if you have a "good example" JT, still pulling 115 
hp, or maybe even better (?), and the NG is a more "worn" example.  You 
do all this work and get nothing, perhaps.

If you really want to do a useful engine swap in the 4kq, put in a turbo 
engine with aftermarket management.  The BTDT out there on such a job is 
very deep, making it not only much easier, but also making a serious 
upgrade in power - a stock MC1 makes 160hp, IIRC, and who runs a 
turbocharged engine "stock" anyway?

On another tack, swapping in the cam is *much* easier, so even if there 
isn't much difference, you won't mind, especially if you combine the job 
with, say, a water pump/TB swap.  You'll need a cam front seal, and a 
new rubber cam cover gasket would be nice.  $30 in parts, IIRC.  Remove 
front cover, remove cam cover, remove cam pulley (don't lose woodruff 
key), gradually undo the cap bolts in the correct order, set caps aside, 
swap cam, install new seal, torque caps in correct order and position, 
put covers back on.  I probably forgot a step or a part, but you get the 
picture.

> Would the NG block take a stock JT's pilot bearing?
>
> Separately, I take it the loves(?) in the NG's cam are bigger than
> the JT's cam and,thus, more aggressive since it "opens up" the valves
> more?
>
> Such swap would not cause the valves to hit the pistons, right? Just
> would get valves closer to the pistons.
>
> If just doing the CAM swap, I take it I re-use the JT's CAM bolt or
> should the NG's one be used?
>
> Also, keep the JT's Cam pulley, right?
>
> Thanks again to all for your valuable input!!
>
> Regards,
>
> -Louis
>
>
>
>
>
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-- 
Huw Powell

http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi

http://www.humanthoughts.org/