'91 100q shiftIng difficulty

[Louis-Alain (mobile)]

Replacing the master is quite obvious for any mechanic : nothing to really
scare a pro or even a good young one. 

Slave, that's another story : it's deep in there, on top of the bellhousing,
just under the firewall, right in the middle of the car. Not very
accessible, but it's doable by a guy like me, a do-it-myselfer. Corrosion
(steel slave tightly fitted into an aluminum housing) will make it stick
very solidly, so you need experience here to remove it in less than an hour.
Installation will be a piece of cake once the old units will be gone. 

Beware not to destroy the flexible hose, as I think it is no longer
available. If too old, there is always the solution to have an hydraulic
shop duplicate it with newer/better material. That's what I did on my 1983
urQuattro (same gearbox as your 100q).

Sachs-Boge is the OEM stuff, Valeo and TRW are top notch suppliers.
Beck-Arnley is a low-cost option. Don't know Pex. I, personally, would go
for the known stuff.

Keep it on the road ! 

Louis-Alain


> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : wadd-wadd at usa.net [mailto:wadd-wadd at usa.net]
> Envoyé : 17 janvier 2012 22:03
> À : Louis-Alain (mobile); wadd-wadd at usa.net
> Cc : quattro at audifans.com
> Objet : RE: '91 100q shiftIng difficulty
> 
> I will pursue this and report back. Any write ups?
> 
> I am getting Pex, Sachs-Boge, TRW, Valeo and Beck Arnley as brands for the
> master and slave. Any suggestions what brand you get?
> 
> My '91 100q is mint. All original and runs well.
> 
> Thank you for all the advice.
> 
> ------ Original Message ------
> Received: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 09:47:04 PM EST
> From: "Louis-Alain (mobile)" <5145727795 at bell.net>
> To: <wadd-wadd at usa.net>Cc: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Subject: RE: '91 100q shiftIng difficulty
> 
> > If never replaced, or age unknown, then replacing both the slave and the
> > master cylinders should cure this problem. Figure a couple of hours for
> > time, and the price of parts : according to rockauto.com, around 50$ for
> the
> > slave and 32$ to 114$ for the master.
> >
> > Then, if it's the clutch itself that is binding, and not the hydraulics,
> > these two parts would be a nice "while in there" additional repair if
> you
> do
> > plan to replace the clutch itself (part : 200$ to 450$, brand dependent,
> and
> > a good day of work). If the car is worth it, it's your call...
> >
> > Louis-Alain
> >
> >
> >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > >
> > > Yes, it does. So, how do I fix the failing clutch hydraulics?
> > >
> >
>