[s-cars] Spark Plugs - anti-seize compound = NO

[QSHIPQ at aol.com]

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[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
NO, NO or NO.  Can I spell that for you?

Problems you create:
-  A-S changes heat range of plug
-  A-S anywhere other than the threads on the plug itself can cause misfire
-  A-S anywhere other than the threads on the plug will kill the O2 sensor
-  All A-S are not the same, in torque value "R" correction OR heat transfer
properties
-  Thread damage from the 1/4 turn method is high, as are the chances of
overseating the plug too far into the head
-  Retorquing spark plugs isn't unique to urs cars, it's part of the design
of plugs, the heat cycles of heads (more mods more heat extremes)
-  With known problems of spark plug back out on the urs, everyone should own
a torque wrench that is accurate at 22ft/lbs, it takes .5 hour to ck the
torque values and inspect the coil extensions
-  There is NO manufacturer of plugs or automotive manufacturer that
recommends this procedure that I'm aware of.  Bosch (who makes the F5 oem for
the S car) says specifically not to.
-  Spark plug manufacturers have changed the nickel compound of the threads
on spark plugs over the years to reduce galling/stripping, and different
manufacturers use different cocktails, so your method isn't at all universal.

Marc, IF you are going to recommend this procedure, I'd highly suggest you
get some data up here, specifically what "1/4 turn method" equates to in
torque value, and the specific brand/formulation and R correction you are
recommending.  Otherwise, this is a shadetree personal experience that could
get you some bad karma from your followers....

A-S should be used knowlegeably.  Using it on spark plugs just isn't, it
ignores the physical properties of the procedure itself (effective heat range
change) as well as, the exact procedures outlined by audi in all TSR/TSB's.
For under 50bux for a torque wrench and .5 hour twice a year, backing out of
plugs on urs can be avoided.

I'm happy to fix what you guys break, but this recommendation is to be
avoided at ALL costs IMO/E.  Marc, FYI I've *never* used A-S on any of my
motors, and never had a plug back out or seize.

My .02

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
Chicago
'91 v8
'87 t44tqw
'84 RS2URQ project
'83 urq



In a message dated 5/2/2003 1:52:24 AM Central Daylight Time,
thecyberpoet at cyberpoet.net writes:

It would seem that I am the starter of great debates this particular
month (well, April, the month just past). H/T, and the ever famous gray
stuff (molybdenum disulfide, with a valid operating range of 0 - 750
degrees F, aka anti-seize paste). You could also be talking about some
of the other anti-seize pastes, such as copper anti-seize paste, or
nickel anti-seize (I wasn't, but I could see that you might be).

I can see the reasons for not using molybdenum disulfide (MBD), if your
plugs already tend to come loose (seemingly true for quite a few of
you) or if you live in a fairly cold weather climate (someplace that
drops below zero degrees F). Actually, now I wonder if there is a
correlation -- are those of you who lose plugs living in severe cold
weather climates?