[s-cars] Window issues

Tue Sep 14 11:40:03 EDT 2004

Well, I removed that breaker and the relay was still clicking away :( and
my window went up by itself. Also, don't I want power to the J139 relay,
as with out it my windows wont work at all? (know from having to unplug it
so it wont keep clicking).

I'm not sure if cutting the wire will even work if that didn't. Any other
ideas anyone?

Thanks again fred, but unfortunatly it didn't help.

> Nick;
>
> Remove the A1 circuit breaker in the relay box under the hood, drivers
> side.
> This will take the power off the J139 relay. You won't have to cut the
> wire.
>
> I've attached a copy of the post Teddy refers to below.
>
> Fred Munro
> '94 S4
>
>>>>Thanks to Tom, Igor, Teddy, Calvin, and Dave for responding to my
>>>> current
> drain question and confirming that the drain was indeed too high.
>
> A bit of work with a digital ammeter isolated the problem to the automatic
> window closure circuit. Pulling the A1 breaker in the under-hood relay box
> dropped the drain to below 10 mA.
>
> This circuit is designed to close windows or the sunroof if they are open
> when the car is locked. This feature has never worked on my car. The
> circuit
> has it's own relay under the driver's side A-pillar kick panel. The power
> supply side is "fused" with a 30 amp breaker in the A1 position in the
> underhood relay box. The relay is triggered by a white/yellow wire from
> the
> power window control module.
>
> This is apparently a relatively common source of a battery drain problem -
> it is written up on Scott Mockry's website and the recommended fix is to
> cut
> the yellow/white wire.
>
> Removing the A1 breaker fixed my problem - this disables the auto close
> circuit and leaves the power windows operational. From this I assume my
> relay is either fused closed or is indeed being activated by the control
> module (via the yellow/white wire) and the power drain is in the circuit
> itself somewhere.
>
> The car now has a 100 mA drain for 30 seconds after the alarm is set, then
> it drops off to 10 mA with a spike to 20 mA every 5 seconds.
>
> A substantial improvement from 280 mA.
>
> When I get some time (ha!) I'll pull the relay to check it out.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
> [mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com]On Behalf Of Theodore Chen
> Sent: September 13, 2004 7:00 PM
> To: nick at newtsplace.com; s-cars
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Window issues
>
>
> nick, check the archives.  you can just pull a relay in the engine
> compartment.  fred munro did that - i think it's the A2.  there are
> two relays listed as being for the alarm/locking system.  one of them
> will shut down the system.  the other one won't produce any apparent
> effect.  that one is the correct one.  it's either A1 or A2, if i remember
> right.
>
> it's good you caught it, because a new J139 costs $300 from the dealer.
>
> -t.
>
> --- Nicholas Stuart <nick at newtsplace.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for your help guys. I think for now I'll just cut the little
>> yellow
>> wire. A lot cheaper then the $300 for a pumb ;)
>> I'll eventually replace it, but at the moment I be poor so snip snip it
> is.
>>
>> -Nick
>>
>> > you're lucky you caught it now.  that J139 relay is expensive and hard
>> > to find.  this is your relay with 329 stamped on it.
>> >
>> > the culprit is your central locking system, which is commanding the
>> J139
>> > relay to close all the windows.  it causes the relay to click rapidly,
>> > and eventually die.  mine was bad.  when i got a replacement, i found
>> > the replacement was clicking rapidly, and determined that the central
>> > locking module was killing it.
>> >
>> > it also drains the battery, too.
>> >
>> > http://sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/elec.html#windowrelayclick
>> >
>> > i just cut the wire, but another lister removed a relay (A2?) and that
>> > stopped it.  check the archives for this list, sometime this year.
>> > i think the other lister was fred munro.
>> >
>> > -teddy
>> >
>> > --- Nicholas Stuart <nick at newtsplace.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Hello all, I'm new to the list and 'semi' new to my S4. (Quick
>> >> backstory,
>> >> 1992 S4 with 240k + miles, one owner car, runs like a champ, few
>> >> expected
>> >> fixes here and there).
>> >>
>> >> Anyways, now that that's done with I have a recent problem that I'm
>> not
>> >> sure where to begin with. My power windows are acting really flaky
>> when
>> >> I
>> >> turn the car off. They work fine when driving and have no issues. But
>> >> the
>> >> will sometimes not turn off (switches still illuminated and work)
>> when
> I
>> >> turn off the car. They will also, sporadically close if i leave them
>> >> open
>> >> and leave the car. And the close while locking feature will also work
>> >> occasionally. One last thing is that the big double relay #'ed 329
>> (in
>> >> the
>> >> drivers side foot well by the door) clicks on and off really quickly
>> >> when
>> >> the car is off.
>> >>
>> >> For now, to get around this with out it killing my battery every
>> night,
>> >> I've been removing relay numbered 329 in the panel by the drivers
>> side
>> >> door. I think its a short somewhere, as it doesnt happen all the
>> time.
>> >> Where should I look for a broken where to this? Wires going through
>> the
>> >> door hing area? Or somewhere else? Or could it just be a freaky
>> relay?
>> >>
>> >> Thanks for the help/suggestions.
>> >> Nick
>> >> _______________________________________________
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>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
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