[s-cars] Brake wear sensor question

[LL - NY]

If you're only getting ~ 1V, that lead is already (poorly) grounded. Check both
leads for 12V. If neither is getting at least 12V, then there is a
break further up
the line. I'm dealing with that myself (when I find the time) and if I
don't get 12V
at the connector, I'm banking on the break being where the cable enters the 
engine compartment, which is where the wire is most stressed by bending. 

LL - NY

On 6/1/05, Ivan Demkovitch <idemkovitch at hotmail.com> wrote:
> Steel fighting that problem... Were looking at Bentley just to see that left
> side connected to ground and then to the right side and then to the
> computer...
> It made me think I should have juice on a right. Started to test and found
> fluctuating ~1V at one of the pins.
> Shortening it to the ground would not turn off that brake lining light.
> Should it go off immediately? Wife was watching it while I was connecting.
> Light stays on..
> 
> Wiring seem to be solid all the way.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kent McLean [mailto:kentmclean at mindspring.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2005 8:08 PM
> To: Ivan Demkovitch
> Cc: s-car-list at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Brake wear sensor question
> 
> 
> Ivan Demkovitch wrote:
> > Is there 2 front caliper sensors??
> >
> > Also, how do I know which pins? There is 3 wholes in connector. By
> > just "looking" I seen copper in 2 of them. Is that correct approach??
> 
> Each pair of pads in a front caliper will have a sensor,
> so there is a sensor on the left front brake and another
> on the right front brake.  The circuit goes to the left
> front first, which is why that is the side you want to
> short to ground.
> 
> If you have a voltmeter, attach the negative lead to
> a good ground, then test the holes with the positive
> lead.  (Be sure the ignition is on, to provide juice
> to the circuit.)  One of the holes should show 12V.
> If not, then you may have a break in the wiring
> "upstream". As one lister said, look by the firewall.
> 
> If you don't have a voltmeter, a test light should
> also work. Ground one lead, then insert the other
> into each hole. The "live" terminal is the one that
> lights the light.
> 
> Whichever terminal has 12V, that is the one you want
> to connect to ground.
> 
> --
> Kent McLean
> '94 100 S Avant, "Moody"
> '89 200 TQ, "Bad Puppy" up in smoke
> '56 Austin-Healey 100 BN2, for sale
> 
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