[s-cars] Re Check Engine Light/No Start

[Ronald Whiton]

Greg,

I have been in there a few times lately and have been getting pretty good at it.

Disconnect the bowden cable hood release.

Remove the piece that the cable attaches to.  (8 or so 10mm screws
(body colored) and a couple phillips screws.  There are also two 10mm
metal screws at the top of the radiator that I always forget about.
Place it out of the way up on the coil cover area.

Remove the black plastic air intake tube.  couple screws.

These two steps are optional if your socket+wrench are shallow enough
to get on the sprocket bolt with all those pieces in place.  That is
if you can get the t-belt guard off before removing these pieces.  If
you can, see if you can get your wrench on the sprocket bolt.

Remove upper t-belt guard.  Make sure to get all the clips undone
first.  I broke mine.

Zap-strap the belt to the upper sprocket through a couple of the holes
in the sprocket.  Use a bungee to hang from the underside of the hood
that you can hook to the sprocket once removed.  The proper length
bungee will provide the tension needed to keep the belt from jumping a
cog on the lower sprocket. (about a 2 1/2 footer)

Remove the top sprocket and hook it to the bungee/hood.

There is a black plastic plate in front of the sensor.  remove it (1
or 2 more 10mm screws)

There is the sensor.  Unplug the electrical end.  Remove the allen
srews holding it in place.  It may need a little gentle prying to
convince it out.  It seems impossible to get the whole thing out in
one piece, but if you again gently pry one of the fuel lines (i think)
out of the way that should give you the room to get it out.

Reassemble is the reverse of disassemble.  I used loctite on the
sensor allen screws and also the sprocket bolt, don't want that thing
working its way loose.

Depending on your time limitations I may have one of the hall sender
units available from the group buy.  Once I get mine I am going to try
it out in my brand new ($200) CPS.  Yup, I am still not starting after
replacing my CPS and still getting the CPS code.

I bet I could change a CPS in about five minutes at this point.

HTH

Ron Whiton



On 6/14/06, Gregory Wolters <gjwarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> When I looked at the Bentley, it has more to do with
> the older engine with the hall sender at the rear of
> the engine.
>
> I guess I know the answer, but does the bumper,
> radiator, etc. have to be removed to replace the CPS?
> If so, it may be a great time to replace my dented
> passenger side fender (I need one in green if anyone
> knows of one.)  I will contact the usual vendors
> again, too.
>
> Thanks for the tip about tying the belt to the
> sprocket.
>
> Any write ups available for this procedure?
>
> Thanks Again,
>
> Greg
> 94 S4
>
> --- Tom Green <trgreen at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > As Tony indicates, the 2113 code is specific for the
> > CPS.  The
> > intermittent failure mode
> > and symptoms are typical.
> > If you replace by removing the sprocket with timing
> > belt in place,
> > tie the belt to the sprocket
> > before removal and you wont disturb the timing.
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