[s-cars] few basic questions

[Robert Rossato]

> > Yes, you do want a replacement drain plug washer. In a 
> pinch, you can anneal
> > it by heating it red hot with a torch, flatten it and let 
> it cool and hope
> > it doesn't leak. You really DON'T want to over torque the 
> drain plug, the
> > oil pan is cast (as in soft, with less than strong threads) 
> aluminum. Many
> > listers have averted the possibility of stripped threads by 
> installing a
> > Fumoto drain valve, www.fumoto.com which means never having to risk
> > threading a plug again.
> 
> it's hard to find washers that big.  24mm?  in a pinch, it's easier to
> use silicone RTV or permatex gasket sealant.  it worked fine for me.
> 
> -teddy

The drain plug gaskets are 26mm diameter and any of the audi on-line
parts suppliers should have them.  And they're cheap enough that it's
not worth re-using them.  That being said, I have reused them once or
twice when I was out of them without any issues.  I didn't bother to
anneal them. Never any leaks.  Just clean all the surfaces and make sure
they are re-installed in the same orientation as they came out.  If you
flip it around you'll be guaranteed to leak.  Here is a link for the
gaskets.  Spend $5 and you'll be set for a long, long time.
http://tinyurl.com/znm3v

As for the oil filters, I use the Mann 719/30, or the Mahle equivalent.
The Audi part number is 034 115 561 A.  Mahle or Mann are OEM suppliers.
I don't know what the long life version is that is referenced at the
bottom of the link below.
http://tinyurl.com/hctqd

I'm probably the only dissenter regarding Fumoto drain valves, so I
guess I'll reiterate my concerns.  While they are convenient to use, you
end up leaving a good 1/2" level of dirty oil in the drain pan due to
the higher drain port.  Not something I want to do.  The biggest problem
with the stock drain plug is that people over torque them and they don't
use the right tools to remove them.  Use a good 6-pt 1/2" drive socket
(I think it's 17mm) on an 18"+ breaker bar and you won't have any
problems removing them.  If you use a 12-pt socket or a combination
wrench you'll be very likely to butcher the plug.  When installing it,
only torque them to 22 lb-ft.  The only other thing I have to do is
remove the 10mm bolt to loosen the starter cable housing in order to
gain clearance for the 1/2" drive breaker bar and socket.  This seems to
vary from car to car, but mine is a bit tight in that area.

Bob