[s-cars] 034 high output coils
cody at 5000tq.com
cody at 5000tq.com
Thu May 24 13:15:45 EDT 2007
It's nice to hear that others had issues too. Javad made it out to me
like I was doing something wrong and that he's never heard so much as
a peep about the coils not fitting (likewise about the GT2071 turbo
install issues I had).
When did you guys buy your coil kits? I installed them in December of
this past year IIRC and it was then that Javad insured me that
documention was going to be a major priority and supplied with furure
kits ASAP. I also suggested to him that if he revised the bracket
just so it would shift forward about an inch it would solve
everything. I guess he ignored that suggestion as well. We spent a few
hours on the phone, after some heated e-mails, and I really thought
some of these issues were to be fixed. I also had a ton of issues with
the installation of thier GT2071 kit, so I became pretty displeased
with thier product quality, and especially so with thier pricing. I
can provide links to websites and piece together a GT2081 setup at
full retail prices for $200 less then thier kit, and in many cases
using higher quality products doing so. :-/
Phil you mentioned you had no signs of cross firing. You won't notice
anything until one day your driving along and suddenly your crankshaft
comes through the oil pan ;-). Seriously it's not pretty when the
wrong spark finds the wrong hole, and it only takes one time to
destroy your engine. It's very likely to not be something you can see
hapening. As the boost pressure and likewise the peak cylinder
pressure increases the air in the cylinder becomes more resistant to
the arc, and the path of least resistance to ground can become a path
through the wire insulation. You best chances of a cross fire event is
at maximum boost and engine load, hardly likely that you'd be under
the hood to see any arcing ;-). Just a warning, feel free to excersize
you own opinion, I'm not trying to be rude or anyting ;-).
The plug wire tool I use is this one by MSD:
http://www.msdignition.com/tool_7.htm
Super easy, and it provides a gauge for measuring the insulation cuts
which is nice. You squeeze it in a vice to make the crimp.
More expensive, more professional, tool:
http://www.msdignition.com/wire_13.htm
Then you'll just need some crimp ends. I re-used the boots that came
on the wires to keep the clean look. On MSD's website they list boots
and crimps together in packs of 100, which just may be more then
you'll need ;-). I'm sure you can find them locally in smaller
quanities.
-Cody Forbes
Quoting manuelsanchez at starpower.net:
>
> Brian,
>
> I had many of the same experiences and sentiments Cody has described:
>
> 1. The 034 Bracket did not fit on my strut bar, instead of a new
> bracket I mounted them by using only one of the 2 flanges on the
> U'shaped piece, thus pushing them forward in the engine bay the
> thickness of the strut tower bar. Javad told me they were working on
> an alternate bracket design, but I have not heard or inquired about
> it in a couple of months(although I did tell him I would be
> interested once they figured something out)
>
> 2. Wires are way long (I have not trimmed them yet as I don't have
> the proper tool)
>
> 3. I managed to get the wires under the coilpack cover as well, I
> removed the black rubber o-ring like gasket the runs around the
> perimeter of the cover as well as that black plastic piece where the
> wires run out from under the cover. I made little spacers, similar
> to the ones supplied to separate the coils from one another, and
> used those to space all the original bolts that were used to hold
> the OE coils in place. This way I know where all the bolts are in
> case I need to revert back to OEM coils one day, and I was able to
> retain the OE coil spring thingies that help provide tension on the
> bolts that hold the coilpack cover onto the head.
>
> 4. I mounted mine a bit more toward the centerline of the engine
> bay, as I too was worried about the heat from the downpipe, but the
> heatshield looks like a good idea too.
>
> 5. No instructions in my kit either.
>
> I don't have any pics, but I hope to get some together soon.
>
> Kit is a little pricey, but for what the new POS's were going to
> cost I decided to try this route for a little lookey-see. Time will
> tell.
>
> -Manny
> 95.5 UrS6 Avant (mostly RS2'd)
>
>
> brian hoeft wrote:
>> anyone have experience with them pro or con?
>
> I installed them a few months ago for a friend on his '93 urS4. They
> function great, never any issues and the car is very strong (GT2871 w/ MRC
> eRS2 software and eRS2 injectors).
>
> I did have some issues with fitment and the installation as a whole.
>
> 1) They do not come with any documentation at all, though Javad assured me
> that they were going to fix that.
>
> 2) The bracket didn't fit. I was installing the coils with the 034 bracket,
> and they simply did not fit at all. The bracket, even without the coils on
> it, hit the fuel lines on the fire wall. I made some brackets for the
> bracket that are welded to the strut tower brace which brought the coils
> forward away from the firewall, and dropped them down a bit. I mounted them
> upside down according to Javad, but I liked having the heat sink on top as
> that just seemed more logical to me since heat rises. Javad assured me that
> he had never had this fitment issue before and had no idea why they wouldn't
> fit in this car.
>
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2683
>
> 3) The coils didn't fit on the bracket well. They hit each other solidly. I
> had to use washers to space the coils away from each other.
>
> 4) The plug wires supplied were insanely too long. I have supplies to make
> wires, so I simply cut them to size and put new ends on the coil end of each
> wires.
>
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/P1010060
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2689 - This is the ammount of
> wire removed, the shortest in this photo is about 4 inches long.
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2683 - Here you can see how
> much better they fit after cutting.
>
> I also thought that in this position they would be prone to being overheated
> by the heat from the turbo and downpipe, so I made a heat shield.
>
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2682
>
> I measured the temperatures with an infrared thermometer and saw over 500F
> degrees on the downpipe, 350F on the heat shield, and the coils directly
> behind the shield were at about 120 degrees F.
>
> I was told that the coil wires would not fit under the AAN coil cover, but
> they do. I had to cut the ruber seal at the back where the wires exit the
> cover. They still fit a tad snug, I would recomend grinding the cover just a
> little to give some extra room.
>
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2688
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2687
>
>
> All photos of install:
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/P1010056
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/P1010057
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/P1010058
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/P1010060
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/P1010061
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2682
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2683
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2687
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2688
> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2689
>
>
>
>
> All in all I would do it again, but I would save the money on the 034
> bracket and just make my own. I also might have also used my own (MSD 8mm
> spiral wound super-conductor) coil wires instead of the ones supplied since
> I had to modify them anyways. If you don't have the ability or equipment to
> shorten the wires yourself you just need to be very careful about routing
> and make sure you tie them to something PLASTIC and also make sure they DO
> NOT touch, especially when tied - tie each wire separately so they can not
> cross-fire.
>
>
> -Cody Forbes
> http://www.5000tq.com
> '87 5ktq - Fast.
> '86 5ktqCD
> '86 5k
> '86 5k
>
>
>
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