[s-cars] 034 high output coils

Thu May 24 14:17:36 EDT 2007

I sent 034 an email this morning about the brackets & plug wire lengths - no 
response yet.  Like I said, I got my kit last week so they would seem to be 
turning a blind eye to the problems.

034 has a lot of cool stuff, but if they can't support it and back it up we 
might as well be cobbing the stuff together ourselves.  And you have to 
wonder about the markups on their more proprietary stuff when you see the 
prices they charge for commodities - like turbos, etc.  I don't mind paying 
a little more to a company that provides stellar support, but the support 
had better be there, including really good instructions to start out with. 
I'm seriously considering their stand-alone ECU, but this does make me 
hesitate.

Take a really big spark, make it jump in a very compressed environment in a 
very short time and no wonder it'll search out a path of less resistance. 
If the insulation on the plug wires is up to it no problemo, but if it's 
not - new circuit and blammmo.  The problems Audi Motorsport had with con 
rod failures due to sparks jumping inside the distributor are well 
documented; my crank would probably never make it out the bottom before a 
rod came out through the side...  I'm taking the spark plug wires 
seriously - no need to rediscover what is already known.

PJM

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <cody at 5000tq.com>
To: <manuelsanchez at starpower.net>
Cc: <s-car-list at audifans.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 1:15 PM
Subject: Re: [s-cars] 034 high output coils

> It's nice to hear that others had issues too. Javad made it out to me
> like I was doing something wrong and that he's never heard so much as
> a peep about the coils not fitting (likewise about the GT2071 turbo
> install issues I had).
>
> When did you guys buy your coil kits? I installed them in December of
> this past year IIRC and it was then that Javad insured me that
> documention was going to be a major priority and supplied with furure
> kits ASAP.  I also suggested to him that if he revised the bracket
> just so it would shift forward about an inch it would solve
> everything. I guess he ignored that suggestion as well. We spent a few
> hours on the phone, after some heated e-mails, and I really thought
> some of these issues were to be fixed. I also had a ton of issues with
> the installation of thier GT2071 kit, so I became pretty displeased
> with thier product quality, and especially so with thier pricing. I
> can provide links to websites and piece together a GT2081 setup at
> full retail prices for $200 less then thier kit, and in many cases
> using higher quality products doing so. :-/
>
>
> Phil you mentioned you had no signs of cross firing. You won't notice
> anything until one day your driving along and suddenly your crankshaft
> comes through the oil pan ;-). Seriously it's not pretty when the
> wrong spark finds the wrong hole, and it only takes one time to
> destroy your engine. It's very likely to not be something you can see
> hapening. As the boost pressure and likewise the peak cylinder
> pressure increases the air in the cylinder becomes more resistant to
> the arc, and the path of least resistance to ground can become a path
> through the wire insulation. You best chances of a cross fire event is
> at maximum boost and engine load, hardly likely that you'd be under
> the hood to see any arcing ;-). Just a warning, feel free to excersize
> you own opinion, I'm not trying to be rude or anyting ;-).
>
>
> The plug wire tool I use is this one by MSD:
> http://www.msdignition.com/tool_7.htm
>
> Super easy, and it provides a gauge for measuring the insulation cuts
> which is nice. You squeeze it in a vice to make the crimp.
>
> More expensive, more professional, tool:
> http://www.msdignition.com/wire_13.htm
>
> Then you'll just need some crimp ends. I re-used the boots that came
> on the wires to keep the clean look. On MSD's website they list boots
> and crimps together in packs of 100, which just may be more then
> you'll need ;-). I'm sure you can find them locally in smaller
> quanities.
>
>
> -Cody Forbes
>
>
> Quoting manuelsanchez at starpower.net:
>
>>
>> Brian,
>>
>> I had many of the same experiences and sentiments Cody has described:
>>
>> 1. The 034 Bracket did not fit on my strut bar, instead of a new
>> bracket I mounted them by using only one of the 2 flanges on the
>> U'shaped piece, thus pushing them forward in the engine bay the
>> thickness of the strut tower bar. Javad told me they were working on
>>  an alternate bracket design, but I have not heard or inquired about
>>  it in a couple of months(although I did tell him I would be
>> interested once they figured something out)
>>
>> 2. Wires are way long (I have not trimmed them yet as I don't have
>> the proper tool)
>>
>> 3. I managed to get the wires under the coilpack cover as well, I
>> removed the black rubber o-ring like gasket the runs around the
>> perimeter of the cover as well as that black plastic piece where the
>>  wires run out from under the cover. I made little spacers, similar
>> to the ones supplied to separate the coils from one another, and
>> used those to space all the original bolts that were used to hold
>> the OE coils in place. This way I know where all the bolts are in
>> case I need to revert back to OEM coils one day, and I was able to
>> retain the OE coil spring thingies that help provide tension on the
>> bolts that hold the coilpack cover onto the head.
>>
>> 4. I mounted mine a bit more toward the centerline of the engine
>> bay, as I too was worried about the heat from the downpipe, but the
>> heatshield looks like a good idea too.
>>
>> 5. No instructions in my kit either.
>>
>> I don't have any pics, but I hope to get some together soon.
>>
>> Kit is a little pricey, but for what the new POS's were going to
>> cost I decided to try this route for a little lookey-see. Time will
>> tell.
>>
>> -Manny
>> 95.5 UrS6 Avant (mostly RS2'd)
>>
>>
>> brian hoeft wrote:
>>> anyone have experience with them pro or con?
>>
>> I installed them a few months ago for a friend on his '93 urS4. They
>> function great, never any issues and the car is very strong (GT2871 w/ 
>> MRC
>> eRS2 software and eRS2 injectors).
>>
>>  I did have some issues with fitment and the installation as a whole.
>>
>> 1) They do not come with any documentation at all, though Javad assured 
>> me
>> that they were going to fix that.
>>
>> 2) The bracket didn't fit. I was installing the coils with the 034 
>> bracket,
>> and they simply did not fit at all. The bracket, even without the coils 
>> on
>> it, hit the fuel lines on the fire wall. I made some brackets for the
>> bracket that are welded to the strut tower brace which brought the coils
>> forward away from the firewall, and dropped them down a bit. I mounted 
>> them
>> upside down according to Javad, but I liked having the heat sink on top 
>> as
>> that just seemed more logical to me since heat rises. Javad assured me 
>> that
>> he had never had this fitment issue before and had no idea why they 
>> wouldn't
>> fit in this car.
>>
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2683
>>
>> 3) The coils didn't fit on the bracket well. They hit each other solidly. 
>> I
>> had to use washers to space the coils away from each other.
>>
>> 4) The plug wires supplied were insanely too long. I have supplies to 
>> make
>> wires, so I simply cut them to size and put new ends on the coil end of 
>> each
>> wires.
>>
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/P1010060
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2689 - This is the ammount 
>> of
>> wire removed, the shortest in this photo is about 4 inches long.
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2683 - Here you can see how
>> much better they fit after cutting.
>>
>> I also thought that in this position they would be prone to being 
>> overheated
>> by the heat from the turbo and downpipe, so I made a heat shield.
>>
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2682
>>
>> I measured the temperatures with an infrared thermometer and saw over 
>> 500F
>> degrees on the downpipe, 350F on the heat shield, and the coils directly
>> behind the shield were at about 120 degrees F.
>>
>> I was told that the coil wires would not fit under the AAN coil cover, 
>> but
>> they do. I had to cut the ruber seal at the back where the wires exit the
>> cover. They still fit a tad snug, I would recomend grinding the cover 
>> just a
>> little to give some extra room.
>>
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2688
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2687
>>
>>
>> All photos of install:
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/P1010056
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/P1010057
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/P1010058
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/P1010060
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/P1010061
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2682
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2683
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2687
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2688
>> http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/tmwricksurs4/CIMG2689
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> All in all I would do it again, but I would save the money on the 034
>> bracket and just make my own. I also might have also used my own (MSD 8mm
>> spiral wound super-conductor) coil wires instead of the ones supplied 
>> since
>> I had to modify them anyways. If you don't have the ability or equipment 
>> to
>> shorten the wires yourself you just need to be very careful about routing
>> and make sure you tie them to something PLASTIC and also make sure they 
>> DO
>> NOT touch, especially when tied - tie each wire separately so they can 
>> not
>> cross-fire.
>>
>>
>> -Cody Forbes
>> http://www.5000tq.com
>> '87 5ktq - Fast.
>> '86 5ktqCD
>> '86 5k
>> '86 5k
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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