[V8] Timing Belt Saga 2

Thu Sep 8 14:41:21 EDT 2005

My manual is the factory one with four loose-leaf binders.

I usually put parts in a row on a bench to keep 'em straight for reinstall.
 If it's something with a bunch of little parts, I use a cupcake tin and
put stuff into the different cups in the order they came off.

I understand that the manual doesn't go as far as to tell you "lefty,
loosey, righty, tighty" and that they're designed for use by mechanics,
but, for example, the distributor caps having a bolt instead of a spring
clip would seem to me to be different enough to merit a mention.  

Anyway, that's why those of us new to such tasks have folks like you guys
to help us muddle through, thankfully.

At 09:47 AM 9/8/2005 -0600, dsaad at icehouse.net wrote:
>Which manual do you have?
>
>It has been a few years since I did this, but I remember being pleasantly
>suprised at how detailed the procedure was. No manual will go to the extent of
>saying which socket extension to use - but they did spell out where special
>tools were needed. I simply followed every instuction to a "T" and things went
>great.
>Then again - my usual method is to remove things that get in my way. I never 
>try
>to work around something if I don't have too. I do seem to recall removing the
>fuel lines btw. Takes all of 2 minutes.
>
>I use a white grease pencil or a black sharpie pen to mark parts with. On a
>complicated job like this, I keep parts/nuts/bolts from specific areas and
>assemblies in labeled plastic zip lock bags. It works like a charm, and you
>don't lose, forget or leave parts out.
>Lots of people also take digital pictures. Not a bad idea if you have a
camera.
>
>
>
>Dave
>
>Quoting Kneale Brownson <kneale at coslink.net>:
>
>> I have the manual, Dave.  Thanks.  I agree about how it would be nice for
>> others to have it available on-line.
>>
>> My problems are in the details.  Like I didn't know the distributor caps
>> were bolted on.  Every other distributor I've encountered has some sort of
>> spring clip.
>>
>> The manual says remove the distributors.  It doesn't say you have to take
>> off the engine cover and the filter housing.   It doesn't say that you need
>> two different socket set-ups for easiest removal.   That stuff may be
>> intuitive, but it would be nice to have some of those details included in
>> the otherwise fairly good write-up in the knowledge base.
>>
>> Does anyone try to reposition the "flexible" fuel lines that restrict space
>> around the passenger side distributor?
>>
>> At 07:49 AM 9/8/2005 -0600, dsaad at icehouse.net wrote:
>> >Kneale - do you have the t-belt procedure from the manual?
>> >If not, I can e-mail it to you.
>> >
>> >For that matter, I wonder if the whole manual could be posted on myv8q?
>> >At the very least, common sections like this one should be if there is
>> enough
>> >room on the server. The whole manual was a tad under 400 Meg as I recall.
>> >On that note, I have improved the web interface slightly over the years -
>> it
>> >still sorta sucks, but it sucks less than it used to.
>> >Anyone good with HTML is welcome to have a go at it. I would love to see
>> the
>> >whole thing online.
>> >
>> >Anyway - what I would do:
>> >
>> >Remove all spark plugs and wires. I know it is not strictly required - but
>> I
>> >usually find it is easier to get things out of the way rather than work
>> around
>> >them and risk breaking something. You also want the plugs out so you can
>> rotate
>> >the crank easily. Yes - you can do it with the plugs in - but again why
>> >fight it
>> >when it is so easy to just remove them.
>> >
>> >Remove both dist caps and rotate the crank until you have TDC on the crank
>> >pointer, and the rotor lines up with the mark on the dist housing.
>> >At this point you can install one of the cam locks. You may have to
>> slightly
>> >rock the crank to get it into place.
>> >If the second cam lock slips into place, then your timing was spot on and
>> you
>> >are lucky. More likely you will have to rotate the cam a little, but you
>> can
>> >not
>> >do this until the t-belt is off and you can rotate the cams individually.
>> >It would not be silly to remove the valve covers to observe the timing
>> marks on
>> >the sprockets, and inspect the chains as well.
>> >
>> >Again - the manual covers this in pretty good detail.
>> >
>> >Dave
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >Quoting Kneale Brownson <kneale at coslink.net>:
>> >
>> >> What'd you use to undo the bolts then?  Where do you put the caps with
>> >> wires while removing the distributors?
>> >>
>> >> At 03:18 PM 9/7/2005 -0400, Coleman, David wrote:
>> >> >WAIT... You don't need to remove the wires to get to the bolts.  I was
>> >> >changing caps at the time...
>> >> >
>> >> >-dc-
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >> -----Original Message-----
>> >> >> From: v8-bounces at audifans.com
>> >> >> [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Coleman, David
>> >> >> Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2005 3:17 PM
>> >> >> To: Kneale Brownson; Buchholz, Steven; v8 at audifans.com
>> >> >> Subject: Re: [V8] Timing Belt Saga 2
>> >> >>
>> >> >> > Since the distributors have to come off anyway to attach
>> >> >> the locking
>> >> >> > plates,  (remember, this is a new experience for me), it looks as
>> >> >> > though I need to remove the plug wires to get to the little
>> >> >> bolts that
>> >> >> > hold on the distributor covers.
>> >> >>
>> >> >> I marked the wires w/ white-out and took a picture of each
>> >> >> side.  Belt and suspenders.
>> >> >>
>> >> >>
>> >> >> > I'll forego the valve cover procedure for now, I guess.  As I
>> >> >> > understand it, the locking plates only go on if the alignment is
>> >> >> > correct???
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Yup.
>> >> >>
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