[V8] Alternator

Fri May 5 12:17:47 EDT 2006

When doing the alternator you can easily remove the belt from the Alt pulley by grasping the belt in the middle of its length as it runs along the oil pan, pull slowly down on the belt, slide a drill bit or other suitable device into the hole by the tensioner arm and your done.   A mirror really helps to locate the hole the first time.  I only use the 13mm nut when on the top side of the motor.   Seems like the manual may even reference this technique, or maybe some fellow lister passed this on, can't remember for sure, been awhile, getting old..................................

Bob
90 V8Q 164K Pearl-Grey Sports 17"Avus New Euros and heater core and a pile of parts waiting to install!

-----Original Message-----
From: v8-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Moy, Bob
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 10:56 AM
To: V8 at audifans.com
Subject: [V8] Alternator

I usually remove the viscousity fan in order to get a 13mm deep socket 6 point with a ½" breaker bar onto that acorn nut.  One push of the breaker bar CCW and the belt is off. 

You can see from the link below where the pin (in this case a punch) is used to hold the tensioner.

http://forums.audiworld.com/v8/msgs/98847.phtml

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[V8] Alternator

Kneale Brownson kneale at coslink.net <mailto:v8%40audifans.com?Subject=%5BV8%5D%20Alternator&In-Reply-To=1146686699.44590ceb93b28%40webmail.icehouse.net> 
Wed May 3 18:00:01 EDT 2006 

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At 02:04 PM 5/3/2006 -0600, dsaad at icehouse.net <http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8>  wrote:
>It has been a while since I have done this - but it is not that big a deal
>really.
>You will have to remove the bottom engine cover - or belly pan as it is 
>commonly
>known on this list. The alternator comes out from the bottom.
>No special tools required either - I think 13mm,17mm sockets and also
13mm,17mm
>wrenches is all you need. It seems like I needed a few extensions too.
>To remove the fan belt, there is a place on the tensioner arm to put a 13mm
>wrench to remove tension. There is also a hole where you can insert a pin to
>hold the tensioner open. This helps a lot. I also take the bolt out of the end
>of the tensioner damper shock. This makes moving the tensioner much easier.
>I seem to also recall removing the exhaust heat shield. Again, just a few nuts
>and easy to do.
> 
>And - before you remove the belt, make a good note of how it is positioned. It
>is not at all intuative - to me anyway.
> 
>Everything else is pretty straight forward.
> 

The serpentine belt tensioner system's 13mm "nut" for putting slack in the
belt takes quite a bit of force.  If you can get a 13mm 6-point box end on
it instead of a 12-point, you stand less chance of stripping the corners on
the "nut"  Both our V8s have bad corners on that fixture.  I can only
manipulate the spring it moves if I use a 6-point wrench.  I didn't see any
change in the amount of force required after I took the damper bolt out.
The plate with that fixture on it is listed in ETKA as a separate part, but
I'm wondering about the danger of the spring tension you'd have to relieve
and reestablish to replace it.
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