[V8] Knock sensor#1

[Scott Simmons]

I think the manual diagnostic procedure will allow you to check ohms on 
the sensor AND check continuity on the ECU wiring.  Page 28-110 says 
that there should be OPEN circuit between all three terminals (infinite 
ohms) and then some ways to check between ECU and wiring.

 From what I can recall, a knock sensor is normally open and when it is 
subject to the specific high frequency vibration that spark-knock 
produces, a piece of metal on the inside makes contact and completes the 
circuit.  The computer detects this as knocking and retards the timing 
until such signals cease.

~Scott S.

cobram at juno.com wrote:

>Last time I got a bad knock sensor code (Left bad), I swapped the
>connectors (L to R and R to L), still got the same code (Left bad.) 
>Ended up being a bad ECU, swapped it out with ECU from V8Q #2 and no more
>codes, put #1's ECU into #2 and got the bad knock sensor code.  It was
>definitely very detrimental to performance and fuel economy, car felt
>like it had a new engine, I think the rest of the ECU was defaulting to
>pre programmed timing etc. because of the reported bad knock sensor. 
>
>BCNU,
>http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/
>Democracy: 3 wolves and a sheep voting on what's for lunch.
>
> Scott Simmons <indischrot at gmail.com> writes:
>  
>
>>I'd check the sensor before removal.  The manual has resistance 
>>checks 
>>you can do, and since the connector is RIGHT THERE on top of the 
>>motor... I'd do that first.
>>
>>~Scott S.
>>    
>>
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