[Vwdiesel] Another leaky pump... Jury fix question???

[G. Matthew Bulley]

I haven't fixed ours.
The weather warmed back up into the 80's and 90's after a freak cold
snap, and although there is still a slight leak, it isn't more than a
drop every minute or so. I think when the pump body is cold, the leak is
worse.

Okay, I have a whacked out idea toward "fixing" this.  Since I have
nothing to loose, I will probably try this, but want to know if anyone
can pretest for me. There are certain brands of "Oil Stop Leak" which
are thin petroleum distillates, and work by causing the rubber seals in
the motor to swell up very slightly. I am thinking of buying a bottle of
same, and with the motor running at a high idle, pour about 4 oz into
the fuel filter through the vent line. Run the motor for 10-15 seconds
more (until the chemical is sucked into the pump), then cut the motor
off, and let it sit overnight.

Before I do this, is there any reason I wouldn't want to do this? Also,
does anyone have an old pump disassembled, such that they can take one
of these old distribution block seals, measure with a micrometer, then
immerse in "Bearing Seal"?

Thanks,

Developing business and guiding change since 1996,

G. Matthew Bulley
Bulley-Hewlett
Marketing & Communications
Business: www.bulley-hewlett.com
Phone: +1.919.658.1278


-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Hillsgrove [mailto:hillsgrove at adelphia.net]
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 12:38 AM
To: vwdiesel at audifans.com; Audi-VW-Diesels at yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Audi-VW-Diesels] Another leaky pump.....



  Seems like there is a bunch of them lately. Add mine to the list.
:-((

 '85 Jetta 1.6 NA, 143K, car has been sitting since last Fall when I
parked
it for the winter. No sign of the leak then. Now, when I went to fire it
up
to do the front brakes and get it ready for the road, it took some
cranking
to get it started and I noticed some diesel fuel on the ground under it.
There is a steady drip from between the distribution block and body of
the
pump while it is running which gets worse with increased RPM. Apparently
it
drips enough to make the pump lose prime over a long period of time,
too.
That has never happened to me before.
 I need to get the car running ASAP for wife to drive, as her car is out
of
commission due to a moose strike and the rental car has to go back soon.
I
wasn't expecting to find this or I would have got started on it earlier.
 I have a spare '86 pump to swap in, but none of the required special
tools
to do so. I know I will need the cam lock plate, pump lock pin,
tensioner
pin wrench, and dial indicator with adapter. Am I missing anything?
Might as
well change the timing belt while I'm in there, so that means a new belt
and
tensioner. I don't think I want to tackle the water pump or
crank/cam/aux.
shaft seals right now due to time constraints, although I know that now
would be the time to do them.
 Best prices I have found online are from Adirondack  - $9 for the pump
pin,
$15 for the cam plate, and $125 for the indicator and adapter. The pin
wrench can be found on eBay for $9.99 + $3.50. They also have the belt
for
$13.50 and the tensioner for $19. Sound about right?
 Any problem upgrading to an '86 pump with the idle speed increase? The
cold
start advance knob should be the same, right? Only difference I can
think of
is that the '86 car has a detent in the knob to help denote the
difference
between just timing advance and idle speed increase with timing advance.
At
least it feels like there is a detent there. Whoopee.
 Took the car out for a road test after doing the front brakes. I
haven't
driven it since I got my TDI in November. Where'd the power go? This
thing
needs a turbo!

 Comments welcome,

  Lee
  Oo-v-oO
  PP-ASEL
  KB1GNI


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