[Vwdiesel] TDC for Chuck

Chuck Carnohan CCarnoha at itd.state.id.us
Thu Apr 29 12:15:10 EDT 2004 

Thanks to all of you that have given me insight into the recalibration
of my engine.  Yep, the timing belt is off due to damage to the water
pump, alternator and intermediate shaft when the car was crashed.  I
think I've got the picture now! Keep your light around me in hopes that
no damage was done when the engine was forcibly stopped in such a
manner!

Chuck

-----Original Message-----
From: James Hansen [mailto:jhsg at sasktel.net] 
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 9:53 AM
To: VW-Diesel List
Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] TDC for Chuck


It's only supposed to go on one way Chuck.  Try assembling with the
clutch disc out, you'll see what I mean. It's only supposed to go on,
and sit flat in relation to the drive plate when on one way. All
positions seem the same, but there is a difference if all is right.

Other than that, be more Holmesian.(as in Sherlock...)  Pop Valve cover
off. Cam lobes on #1 point up at tdc. Use this or there is a notch on
the driver's side of the injection pump sprocket. It is supposed to
match the casting mold mark at the top of the pump to tell you if you
are putting the belt on with the pump at TDC or a half turn out. (can be
done both ways, but the engine only runs when done the right way).

You have the t-belt off as well?  then...
Put the crank pulley on temporarily as well as the waterpump pulley.
Notch on the crank pulley rim lines up with the waterpump puley edge
when viewed from the horizontal. (bottom edge of waterpump pulley)

Pop an injector (#1) and use a piece of light wire or some solid core
solder to stick through tthe precup and into the combustion space to
feel for the piston when it comes to the top of it's stroke.  Not exact,
but  you really only need ballpark here, not within a degree...

Good reasons for putting engine at TDC and putting a centerpunch mark to
reference to on the block after the transmission is off and flywheel is
off.

You are doing the rear seal too, right?  Dont forget to loctite the
bolts that go into the crank flange. Don't ever forget that, or the
flywheel eventually becomes a lathe and parts off the transmission with
spectacular results. -James


> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com 
> [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]On
> Behalf Of Chuck Carnohan
> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2004 8:23 AM
> To: TexasTDI; vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 67. -----(starting da
> bubblemachine )
>
>
> Yeah, well Chris- in real life "you get what you work for".  Pay 
> attention.  Respect your elders!  Golden Rules for Happy Dubbing (and 
> other life's pursuits as well).  My grandmother had a saying that 
> rings true in so many applications:  "If you keep your fist closed so 
> tightly that nothing can fall out, nothing can get in either".  I must

> say, CJT vs. HH make this forum much more entertaining and 
> enlightening!  Thanks guys.
>
> As one among the masses of the uniformed I have a question for you 
> all....  When an idiot takes the fly wheel off of a 1.6NA without 
> noting the aspect, how does this same fool get it back on where the 
> timing mark is as TDC?  I deserve the grief I receive for this one and

> it fully exposes my novice-level of expertise (as if my previous 
> entries haven't already done that).  Thanks!
>
> Chuck
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TexasTDI [mailto:TexasVWdriver at hotmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2004 5:12 PM
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 67. -----(starting da 
> bubblemachine )
>
>
> "I am passionate about blottertest --- they work and do not cost."
>
> Ever hear the phrase, "You get what you pay for?"
>
> Christopher J. Thornton
> 1991 VW Jetta 2 Door 1.6 Diesel - 241k miles
> 2000 VW Golf 1.9TDI (turbo diesel) - 99k miles
> Amsoil Synthetic Lubricants Dealer #1098500 http://www.amsoil.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "H.Hagar" <h_hagar at prcn.org>
> To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2004 1:46 PM
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 67. -----(starting da bubble 
> machine )
>
>
> I am passionate about blottertest --- they work and do not cost. 
> Likewise I am
> promoting the " Bubblemachine"     --- liquid dish detergent works
> better
> than  "snoop".
>
> Case history :    GM pickup right front wheel ---very slow leaker.   I
> tanked the wheel
> no sign of leaks.      ----    but it kept leaking on truck.
>
> One day I was washing the truck  (using dish liquid) ------do not tell

> your wife. Anyway  I soaped the front end ---and the phone rang.
>
> Much later  (next day)   I noticed a patch of very small bubbles on
> sidewall. It was  Leaking
> only when sidewall was flexed.
>
> Is it a good test for testing coolant systems for leaks to combustion
> chambers.???   IMHO
> IMHO   the best. ---    If you have to look for your Bunny in the
> suds ----bingo  we have a leak.
> Very funny --the amount of suds --- from a good leaker. Reminds me of 
> putting laundry soap in the dishwasher. 1 foot deep all over kitchen 
> floor.
>
> Leak testing heat-shields ? ---- go soapy . (from a cold start)   Try
> not to
> get water on a running
> hot injection pump..
>
> Leaky windshields ?  ---sudsy has the answer.   Pressurize Bunny with
> your
> shop vac. Brush on
> the liquid ----you will not fail to find the leak.
>
> And what about that cute little grand daughter ??? let her blow a few 
> bubbles. Here it was little
> "HOPE"   hopie to me ----Blowing bubbles is a lot safer than rolling
> truck
> wheels down the drive way across the highway. Now I am just a grumpy 
> old man.
>
> Hagar.
>
> PS:  I use the soapy test on all liquid cooled engines.-------problem 
> or no problem.
>
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