[Vwdiesel] *HELP - injection pump for '93 EV needed*
rOLf peCHUkas
rbp at 4u2bu.org
Sat Dec 11 19:51:28 EST 2004
hey all
I've got a '93 EuroVan diesel (Canadian) that needs an injection pump
we sent the pump out to Cummins to rebuild, who sent it back saying it
was too far gone
but I can't afford or justify the expense of a new pump
anyone know where I could find a good used pump for (relatively) cheap
money?
thanks for any ideas
--
rOLf peCHUkas
rbp at 4u2bu.org
CAMbridge, MA
(617)335-4006
On Dec 11, 2004, at 6:13 PM, vwdiesel-request at vwfans.com wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: pump numbers (82 Diesel Westy)
> 2. Re: Rabbit droppings # 132 --- ( message for Gavrik Peterson
> Esq. ) (LBaird119 at aol.com)
> 3. Rabbit droppings # 133 ---- ( compression talk for beginners
> ) (H . Hagar.)
> 4. Fw: [Vwdiesel] pump numbers (Gerry Wolfe)
> 5. Hagar's leak down test and cold running (raymond greeley)
> 6. Compression testing for beginners. (H . Hagar.)
> 7. OT equipment search help NW or Canada area. (James??)
> (LBaird119 at aol.com)
> 8. RE: TDI questions (James Hansen)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2004 06:59:47 -0800 (PST)
> From: 82 Diesel Westy <dieselwesty at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] pump numbers
> To: LBaird119 at aol.com, vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Message-ID: <20041211145947.34515.qmail at web42003.mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> I second all his idea's on other places air could be
> getting into your system. The steal lines get brittle
> with age it seems and they are fairly pricey to
> replace, most likely about $100 for all 4. Guessing.
>
> Lots of places are possible.
>
> Be careful on timing belt, a good mechanic helped me
> retime my motor but he over tightened the belt. I
> said to him it seemed to tight, he said no, all TDI's
> are that tight. 800 miles later the front shaft
> bushings in my pump were gone and it was spewing fuel.
> Lets, see, that was another $325 to have my pump guy
> fix that pump.
>
>
> Bryan
>
> --- LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Clean and (if possible) blow off the injectors to
>> see if you have any leaks
>>
>> from them. Could be between the body halves, hoses,
>> nipples to the
>> hoses or supply line fittings. Could be leaking
>> from the lines at the pump,
>> return line from the pump, between the aluminum and
>> steel part of the pump
>> or the timing advance.
>> Timing for that pump is on my list and shows this:
>> 068-130-109 0-460-494-130 .92 Rabbit 84
>>
>> VW number, Bosch number, timing, what it was on and
>> what year. Looks
>> like you're a bit advanced at 1.00mm, sounded like
>> it from your description
>> too.
>> Pumps shouldn't growl or whine, is the timing belt
>> too tight?
>> Loren
>> _______________________________________________
>> Vwdiesel mailing list
>> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2004 10:39:17 EST
> From: LBaird119 at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 132 --- ( message for
> Gavrik Peterson Esq. )
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Message-ID: <fb.6635e2e9.2eec6ea5 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> I like to expand on my statement --- that I run Bunny Bondo " Super
> Lean " .
>
> In turn that cleaned out the Turbo to the point where I do no longer
> need to
> clean it. Those turbos if run too cold and RICH wind up with a
> lot of
> soot buildup.
>
>
> Gooey soot would be from oil getting into the combustion chamber
> though. Unless you're constantly blowing a black cloud (fuel set too
> high and your foot constantly to the floor) you shouldn't be able to
> soot up the engine enough to clog things other than the oil. Most
> likley it was a combination of all the maintenance you did that
> cleaned it up. Sounds like it'd been pretty neglected before you
> bought it, which usually means infrequent oil changes of "S" only
> rated oil. That'll plug up rings, breather screen, valves, etc.
> Loren
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2004 08:44:41 -0800
> From: "H . Hagar." <h_hagar at prcn.org>
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] Rabbit droppings # 133 ---- ( compression talk for
> beginners )
> To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Message-ID: <001801c4dfa0$fa8925b0$73ed7240 at bunneyblue>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Bart Whinelanders whining (just kidden) ----kind of made me think
> back to when I first got shown these tricks .
>
> Us OLD geezers are so used to think that it is simple and straight
> forward.
>
> Now I realize that a compression test is a test open to
> interpretation. So first lets
> tell the beginners about the pressure. ---- it is not absolute
> pressure. it is psiG.
>
> And the reading on the GAUGE is just that a relative reading --
> that you must
> learn to interpret. All four the same ? good news. 275 psi ?
> kind of low.
>
> But you are not done just yet .. Do one hot and then do one at
> the time after squirting in some HEAVY oil in cylinder. That will tell
> if it is Ring trubles or wear.It could be valves.
>
> The heavyweigts in this forum are Loren, James Hansen and the flyboys
> . The biggest
> problem for beginners is CRANKING SPEED. ---- get her snapping real
> good.
>
> Ask the Heavyweights how the pressure reading varies with RPM . I
> never checked that
> but think now that I will in the future. . But remember copression
> Ratio ? about 23 times
> atmosphere ? so we are praying for at least 14 times 23 = 322
> PSI. . I am getting
> this gut feeling that the Whinelander express may be ok ? I think I
> would try
> another gauge or at least test it for readings. Anyways Bart let us
> know how it all ends ?.
>
> If you suspect the pump ? use the other one for a while. To proof
> test the engine-
>
> I said it here many times USE BOSCH glowplugs. the NEW type. they
> were special
> when they came out and they had a patent so they were the only game in
> town
> a few years ago. And yes you can use new type in the old systems. Do
> not use the Old style in the new systems. Glowtime is the problem
> --the new type has a ballast resistor
> buildt right in and can be left on for 3 minutes at the time . Without
> burning out.
>
> Price ? maybe 15 to 20 dollars a piece. Mine hardly ever burn
> out so I am not up to date
> on pricing. Yes I have lots of the old ones here that burned
> out.Some had complete
> melt downs. (2).
>
> So why did BOSCH completely re design the glow plugs ? -----Smoking
> turbos when cold.
>
> The new system uses afterglow ( glow after start) the old type turned
> off as soon as you
> hit the start switch.
>
> I am talking about Old Rabbits mostly 77 to 84 .
>
> As one of the flyboys I am leaning on my Leakdown tester a lot.
> ----It tells me
> all I want to now about the engine. We use airpressure from a
> comprssor to
> supply pressure to the Gauges You will need two. .
>
> I am passing on Val Christians warning -----if you put oil in
> cylinder be careful it may
> just fire up and give you a very very high reading.
>
> When I lived in Quebec ---I had an old US Army Jeep with 5 psi
> compression..
> gasser ---and I was the only one that could start in town when it
> was really cold.
>
> St Camille de Bellshasse.? Q. Now I am in BC for the last
> few laps.
>
> Hagar.
>
> PS : That jeep was not exacty a Hummer ---but for hunting and
> fishing ? ---it was great.
> incredible design.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2004 09:57:51 -0800
> From: "Gerry Wolfe" <gjwolfe at telus.net>
> Subject: Fw: [Vwdiesel] pump numbers
> To: <vwdiesel at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <002201c4dfaa$eecf1680$9bfbd8cf at bc.hsia.telus.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Stanadyne filter is electric heat.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Kair" <scott3491 at insightbb.com>
> To: <vwdiesel at audifans.com>; "Bart Wineland" <bwinelan at allegheny.edu>
> Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2004 04:23
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] pump numbers
>
>
>> IIRC, the valve runs about $6-8. It was a dealer-only item when I
>> bought it, but I'd check with Halsey before bending over and spreading
>> my cheeks again. It pays to buy two.
>> The other device you describe sounds like it might be an
>> aftermarket inline fuel heater. Stanadyne and MB both make them,
>> although I can't remember which is powered electrically and which has
>> coolant plumbed through it.
>> On the bright side, a complete failure is easier to detect than a
>> hairline crack. If you replace with the newer unit, be sure to orient
>> the whole unit and connect the lines correctly.
>> Good luck,
>> Scott
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Bart Wineland" <bwinelan at allegheny.edu>
>> To: "Scott Kair" <scott3491 at insightbb.com>; <vwdiesel at audifans.com>
>> Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 9:49 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] pump numbers
>>
>>
>>> Thanks Scott. It is the plastic housing you describe that holds the
>> little
>>> wafer that came apart and will not seal again. When I parked the
>> car in
>>> the garage tonight and shut the engine off I could hear it hissing.
>> It
>>> leaks fuel out pretty good when the engine is running and lets air
>> in when
>>> I shut it off. It makes starting the car a real chore. I probably
>> whacked
>>> it at some point when swapping the engines. In addition to what you
>>> describe mine has another device that attaches to the filter
>> bracket. I
>>> think it is a heater since it has power running to it but is not
>> plumbed
>>> together in anyway to the filter since I've owned the car.
>>>
>>> Bart
>>>
>>> At 06:32 PM 12/10/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>> I have a old style fuel filter housing
>>>>> I want to install instead of the newer style. The newer style
>> has an
>>>> extra
>>>>> line that I don't know what to do with but will figure it out.
>>>>>
>>>>> Bart<<
>>>>
>>>> The newer style incorporates a thermostatic wafer in a plastic
>>>> housing that runs return fuel from the pump back through the filter
>> at
>>>> temps below 50F. IIRC, two of the fuel lines are coupled to the
>>>> housing, which sits atop the filter. Over time, the plastic gets
>>>> brittle and cracks or breaks when you try to tighten the line
>> clamp.
>>>> The new style doesn't become apparent until the thermovalve
>>>> housing cracks and leaks, or when you find out the filter is more
>>>> expensive and the housing a dealer-only item, or when the
>> temperature
>>>> gets below about 10F.
>>>> At cold outside temps, you get warm fuel to the pump pretty
>>>> quickly, rather than the cold stumbles for several minutes.
>> Replacing
>>>> the newer style with the old involves a bit of re-plumbing the
>> extra
>>>> lines, and does save money and increased risk of leaks, but a
>> couple
>>>> of mornings at -10F made me a believer in the newer style.
>>>> HTH,
>>>> Scott Kair
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Vwdiesel mailing list
>>>> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>>>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Vwdiesel mailing list
>> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>>
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>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2004 18:58:47 +0000
> From: "raymond greeley" <rgreeley2 at hotmail.com>
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] Hagar's leak down test and cold running
> To: Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Message-ID: <BAY101-F368617314F10FAD5F23B78EAA90 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
> You said it requires two gauges, wouldn't one show you where you
> started and
> where it
> leaked to. I've never done a leak down, don't they all leak some, so
> what
> amount is
> acceptable.
> I had the slow turning/hard starting 1.6 na a month ago(corrected with
> better grounding of starter)
> With over nights getting into the 20's in chicago, I find the car
> starts
> well yet, it doesn't
> run on all 4cyl's for say 2 mins, Am i to believe one or more glow
> plugs
> isn't warming
> completely.
> You mentioned using the bosch gp, i assumed one must also use the
> relay for
> those plugs.
> ray
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2004 12:47:43 -0800
> From: "H . Hagar." <h_hagar at prcn.org>
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] Compression testing for beginners.
> To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Message-ID: <000c01c4dfc2$ec2677d0$62ed7240 at bunneyblue>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> CP63-P7 Look up on net.
>
>
>
> If you have an abnormally low cylinder, you should start the
> engine and run it on the ground or even fly around the pattern once.
> Test it again. If it is still low, use a length of garden hose as a
> "stethoscope" and listen at the exhaust of the ailing cylinder. If you
> hear a hissing escape of compressed air here, you have an exhaust
> valve that is not seating. Similarly, listen carefully with the
> "stethoscope" at the carb or intake airbox. A hissing sound here would
> indicate leakage under the intake valve. If neither of these areas is
> leaking significantly, listen at the breather or oil dipstick/filler
> tube. A leak in this area is indicative of ring blow-by. This could be
> ring wear, barrel wear or scoring, or all the ring gaps may be lined
> up. Hissing between cylinder cooling fins is bad news, possibly a
> cracked cylinder. Valve leakage is the most commonly found cause of a
> low cylinder.
> The differential compression test has its limitations but it
> still remains one of the best, most cost effective preventive
> maintenance procedures available to the builder/flyer. The method
> described here is simple and it works. Done every 100 hours regularly,
> you could save big bucks in the long run.
> If you would like to learn more about this procedure and many
> other cost saving tips for keeping your engine in good shape, you
> could not do better than to obtain a copy of "Top End" from the Light
> Plane Maintenance Library.
> Write to: Light Plane Maintenance
> 1111 East Putnam Ave.
> Riverside, CT 06878
>
> Hagar.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> A single compression test does not necessarily mean anything. A
> single oil analysis also means very little. No single diagnostic test
> should ever be used to decide the health of your engine. The key is to
> do these tests regularly and keep good records of what you see.
> Compare each test and make your decision based on several tests
> conducted over a reasonable period of time.
> If you have an abnormally low cylinder, you should start the
> engine and run it on the ground or even fly around the pattern once.
> Test it again. If it is still low, use a length of garden hose as a
> "stethoscope" and listen at the exhaust of the ailing cylinder. If you
> hear a hissing escape of compressed air here, you have an exhaust
> valve that is not seating. Similarly, listen carefully with the
> "stethoscope" at the carb or intake airbox. A hissing sound here would
> indicate leakage under the intake valve. If neither of these areas is
> leaking significantly, listen at the breather or oil dipstick/filler
> tube. A leak in this area is indicative of ring blow-by. This could be
> ring wear, barrel wear or scoring, or all the ring gaps may be lined
> up. Hissing between cylinder cooling fins is bad news, possibly a
> cracked cylinder. Valve leakage is the most commonly found cause of a
> low cylinder.
> The differential compression test has its limitations but it
> still remains one of the best, most cost effective preventive
> maintenance procedures available to the builder/flyer. The method
> described here is simple and it works. Done every 100 hours regularly,
> you could save big bucks in the long run.
> If you would like to learn more about this procedure and many
> other cost saving tips for keeping your engine in good shape, you
> could not do better than to obtain a copy of "Top End" from the Light
> Plane Maintenance Library.
> Write to: Light Plane Maintenance
> 1111 East Putnam Ave.
> Riverside, CT 06878
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2004 17:40:45 EST
> From: LBaird119 at aol.com
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] OT equipment search help NW or Canada area.
> (James??)
> To: vwdiesel at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <192.34f89187.2eecd16d at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
> Cheapskate Baird Bros. found a good deal on a diesel powered water
> pump.
> They passed up the idea. This was about Spring. Now they've decided
> they're
>
> interested again but can't remember where they found the deal. It was
> in BC
> best as they can remember.
> Anyway, if anybody knows of a source for about 30+psi @ about 200gpm
> with a diesel powerplant, lemme know. :-) Just when I think I'm
> getting
> them trained... ;-)
> Loren
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2004 17:13:25 -0600
> From: James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net>
> Subject: RE: [Vwdiesel] TDI questions
> To: VW-Diesel List <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Message-ID: <JEEPKILLLHNMCEPFOCELCEICCGAA.jhsg at sasktel.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=Windows-1252
>
>
>
> Greetings all!
>
> I have been on the list for a while now, just don't post very often...
>
> The wife bought a Jetta Wagon, and I got the 96 Passat TDI ~180K miles
> _____
> You have the better car in my opinion.
>
>
>
> A few questions
>
> How the %%%% do you change the light bulb for the heat controls? I
> have had
> about 3/4 of the dash apart, and still could not pull the control unit
> out
> to get at that bulb!
> ___
> Dunno
>
> When on the freeway, if I floor it, when it gets to about 75-80 ~ 3000
> RPM
> under load, then, it is like someone flicks a switch - 1/2 power!
> Pulls
> VERY slowly after that... I'm thinking wastegate?
> _____
> Yes. It's actually loss of warp field due to a difference between
> boost
> called for, and actual boost. Check all little hoses carefully from N71
> boost control relay (by master cylinder) over to the wastegate, up to
> the
> ECU. They can leak, or get filled with oil. Our 97 Passat had the
> wastegate
> filled with oil that had migrated up the hose over the years, and
> wouldn't
> let the thing actualte fast enough. There will be codes, but no MIL
> light.
> It's self resetting after a stop/start cycle. It's real common.
> Dealership
> would start with changing all the vacuum lines, then the turbo. yeah,
> no
> kidding...
>
>
>
>
>
> The air filter and fuel filter are fairly new.
>
> Also, are the glow plugs as easy to change as it looks?
>
> _____
>
> Yes, but clean the harness plug well with a contact cleaner and then
> after
> it dries, lube the plug ends with a dilectric grease to keep moisture
> out.
>
> Good luck
> -James
> ---
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> ------------------------------
>
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>
> End of Vwdiesel Digest, Vol 14, Issue 12
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