[Vwdiesel] 92 Eco ip pump leak
Marvin Jansen
marvinjansen50 at gmail.com
Sat Jan 6 14:37:53 EST 2007
A neighbor has a 92 Ecodiesel Jetta with a leak at what appears to be
the joint between the ip head (where the lines fasten on) and the
body. I replaced an o ring on one off the car, anyone ever change it
on the vehicle? He is selling the car in Tuscaloosa if anybody is
interested.
On 1/6/07, vwdiesel-request at vwfans.com <vwdiesel-request at vwfans.com> wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Injection Pump Timing - determining TDC of #1 cylinder
> (Erik Lane)
> 2. Re: Offical Rant: Stupid German Engineers! and more (jon)
> 3. Re: Relocating battery (LBaird119 at aol.com)
> 4. Re: Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend (Bryan K Walton)
> 5. Re: Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend (Val Christian)
> 6. Re: Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend (LBaird119 at aol.com)
> 7. Re: Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend (Bryan K Walton)
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "Erik Lane" <eriklane at gmail.com>
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2007 17:21:09 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Injection Pump Timing - determining TDC of #1 cylinder
> That will let you know when the camshaft is about at the right position, but
> if the timing has slipped it will not say much about the piston. I would not
> rely on it. Definitely follow the procedure step by step is the best bet.
> Anything else is just wasting your time and money in the long run as far as
> I'm concerned. Do you have a copy of the correct procedure? I don't have it
> in front of me, but I could track it down.
>
> Erik
>
> On 1/5/07, MWoodland at dentsply.com <MWoodland at dentsply.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > HI Folks,
> > Q. Likely a silly question once I hear the answer but ...
> > When setting the timing of a diesel injection pump, how do you verify #1
> > cylinder TDC with only the valve cover off?
> >
> > A. The cam lobes for #1 cylinder will point to 10:00 and 2:00 when viewed
> > from the front (cam pulley)of the engine.
> > Mark
> >
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>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: jon <jon at kenneke.com>
> To: Sandy Cameron <scameron at compmore.net>
> Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2007 16:44:37 -0800 (PST)
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Offical Rant: Stupid German Engineers! and more
>
> > I have a couple of duds here, I think an autopsy is indicated.
>
> And, make sure you share pics of the autopsy! This is the internet,
> afterall. ;)
>
> Jon
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: LBaird119 at aol.com
> To: Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2007 22:39:56 EST
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Relocating battery
> In a message dated 1/5/2007 8:46:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> jhsg at sasktel.net writes:
>
> > They are similar to the compression ones you are familiar with, without
> > the compression part- it's just a straight copper sleeve. I've made
> > ends out of copper pipe before too, just flatten it and install, drill
> > the end out later for a bolt..
> >
>
> Dad recently made up some HD copper cables, 00 wire. They
> were straight, solder type but they have a hydraulic hose crimper
> on the orchard. ;-) Some crimp, some Boeing Surplus shrink tube
> and he ended up with some really nice looking cables. House type
> wire in that size is nearly as stiff as rebar!
> Loren
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Bryan K Walton <bryankwalton at machlink.com>
> To: VW Diesel Fans <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2007 22:51:32 -0600
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend
> Hi everybody,
> Its Friday night, about 10:41PM. I'm calling it quits for the
> evening with regards to my IP swap on this rabbit. I knew this would
> be a difficult project, but I didn't think I'd have difficulties this
> early in the process. Argh.
> Unfortunately, my Rabbit has A/C (not working, yet still
> there.) So, if I understand Bentley correctly, I need to at least
> loosen the tension on the A/C compressor tensioner in order to loosen
> the A/C belt so that I can remove the outer crankshaft pulley. Is
> this correct? I had no problems getting the alternator belt loose and
> the alternator out. Do I really need to loosen the tension on the A/C
> compressor belt? The reason I ask is that I can't get my 17mm wrench
> (or socket) in there to move the nuts. I don't know how they were
> ever tightened up the last time.
> Also, regarding removing the four allen bolts holding the
> outer crankshaft pulley. The second I try to loosen any of those
> bolts, the pulley spins. Any suggestions here?
>
> Thanks,
> Bryan
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Val Christian <val at mongobird.com>
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 00:27:02 -0500 (EST)
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend
> Bryan,
>
> I haven't followed your thread closely, but I'll give a few comments.
>
> Sometimes you can pull the crank pulley without untensioning the AC.
> Pull the four allen bolts. I use air impact, with a mouse. If you
> don't have that, try a strap wrench on the pulley, to somehow lock
> it in place. I just always use light air impact. If you don't have
> impact, try tapping on a small breakerbar to loosen the bolts.
>
> Then slide the pulley off the cogbelt pulley. To put it back on,
> you'll have to stretch it, as you'll be tightening the AC belt
> as you pull the pulley over the center hub. Slip one of the four
> bolts in (the one farthest from the AC works best). The ledge
> on the pulley, and the crank bolt will give you points to lever
> off of. Don't undo that 12 point bolt. You'll have more work
> to do otherwise.
>
> If the AC belt is tight, then you'll use screwdrivers, prybars and
> like ilk.
>
> For loosening the 17mm AC retainer bolts...I use a combination of
> combo wrenches, crows foot wrenches and sockets. The exact recipe
> depends on the particular car. One of them I recall cramming a 1/4"
> screwdriver against a nut and casting to hold it while I spun it's
> partner. Get the picture? It's doable, just not in the text book.
> The German's must have a really long term for whatever is involved.
>
> Oh, on those allen head bolts...keep some spares. If they are rusty,
> and you haven't been pulling your pulley off much recently, you may
> mung the head. The best thing then is to hammer in slightly larger
> tools you may have gotten in the same set of tools. Like Torx head
> tools. This is what they were really made for, until someone invented
> torx bolts. In a pinch, going up a size might help. One time I put
> braze material on the allen tool, and filed it down until it was very
> snug.
>
> Copious penetrant gives you something else to blame for slipped tools
> and skinned knuckles.
>
> Use a hammer, and firmly tap the allen bit into the socket head prior
> to attempting to turn it. If using impact, limit the flow so that you
> don't exceed about 35 ft lb. Rock the direction back and forth,
> accepting small motion of the screw at first.
>
> Putting back together use neversieze. I use flat washers as well.
> Torque with the calibrated "brrapp" of the 3/8" impact mouse.
> If you don't have one, about 15 to 20 ft lbs.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Val
>
>
>
>
>
> > Hi everybody,
> > Its Friday night, about 10:41PM. I'm calling it quits for the
> > evening with regards to my IP swap on this rabbit. I knew this would
> > be a difficult project, but I didn't think I'd have difficulties this
> > early in the process. Argh.
> > Unfortunately, my Rabbit has A/C (not working, yet still
> > there.) So, if I understand Bentley correctly, I need to at least
> > loosen the tension on the A/C compressor tensioner in order to loosen
> > the A/C belt so that I can remove the outer crankshaft pulley. Is
> > this correct? I had no problems getting the alternator belt loose and
> > the alternator out. Do I really need to loosen the tension on the A/C
> > compressor belt? The reason I ask is that I can't get my 17mm wrench
> > (or socket) in there to move the nuts. I don't know how they were
> > ever tightened up the last time.
> > Also, regarding removing the four allen bolts holding the
> > outer crankshaft pulley. The second I try to loosen any of those
> > bolts, the pulley spins. Any suggestions here?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bryan
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: LBaird119 at aol.com
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 03:28:30 EST
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend
> I take it you're doing a timing belt at the same time? Otherwise
> no need to pull the A/C pulley. I've pulled the allens without an air
> impact but that's usually the easiest way. Just like with CV bolts,
> scrape them out, tap the socket in, hold pressure and then whack!
> Slip and you're kinda screwed. You can however use a chisel or such
> and bit into the face of the bolt and get it loosened or put a slot into it
> and "impact" it out with a large, steel shank through the handle, blade
> screwdriver and a hammer.
> Loren
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Bryan K Walton <bryankwalton at machlink.com>
> To: LBaird119 at aol.com
> Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 08:17:04 -0600
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend
> On Sat, Jan 06, 2007 at 03:28:30AM -0500, LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
> > I take it you're doing a timing belt at the same time? Otherwise
> > no need to pull the A/C pulley.
>
> Well, I thought I probably should, given that I had an IP leak. But
> also, the manual says I need to. Your saying that it isn't necessary
> in order to replace the IP?
>
> -Bryan
>
>
>
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