[Vwdiesel] 92 Eco ip pump leak
Area31 Research Facility
stephensrw at stn.net
Sat Jan 6 15:24:24 EST 2007
I changed this o-ring on my 1980, 1.5L Rabbit engine on the engine. It is
in my DIY 3-phase 10 kW generating plant indoors. I eased out the block
only far enough to access the o-ring and used a longer bolt in one of the
four mounting bolt holes to keep it from coming out further. Slid the
o-ring by stretching it carefully over the end block. No problems.
A bunch of black spooge drained out of the gap into my catch can when I
pulled out the end block past the seal. Ever since the stumbling problem
when cold has gone away.
Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marvin Jansen" <marvinjansen50 at gmail.com>
To: <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 2:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] 92 Eco ip pump leak
>A neighbor has a 92 Ecodiesel Jetta with a leak at what appears to be
> the joint between the ip head (where the lines fasten on) and the
> body. I replaced an o ring on one off the car, anyone ever change it
> on the vehicle? He is selling the car in Tuscaloosa if anybody is
> interested.
>
> On 1/6/07, vwdiesel-request at vwfans.com <vwdiesel-request at vwfans.com>
> wrote:
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>> Today's Topics:
>>
>> 1. Re: Injection Pump Timing - determining TDC of #1 cylinder
>> (Erik Lane)
>> 2. Re: Offical Rant: Stupid German Engineers! and more (jon)
>> 3. Re: Relocating battery (LBaird119 at aol.com)
>> 4. Re: Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend (Bryan K Walton)
>> 5. Re: Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend (Val Christian)
>> 6. Re: Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend (LBaird119 at aol.com)
>> 7. Re: Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend (Bryan K Walton)
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: "Erik Lane" <eriklane at gmail.com>
>> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>> Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2007 17:21:09 -0800
>> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Injection Pump Timing - determining TDC of #1
>> cylinder
>> That will let you know when the camshaft is about at the right position,
>> but
>> if the timing has slipped it will not say much about the piston. I would
>> not
>> rely on it. Definitely follow the procedure step by step is the best bet.
>> Anything else is just wasting your time and money in the long run as far
>> as
>> I'm concerned. Do you have a copy of the correct procedure? I don't have
>> it
>> in front of me, but I could track it down.
>>
>> Erik
>>
>> On 1/5/07, MWoodland at dentsply.com <MWoodland at dentsply.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > HI Folks,
>> > Q. Likely a silly question once I hear the answer but ...
>> > When setting the timing of a diesel injection pump, how do you verify
>> > #1
>> > cylinder TDC with only the valve cover off?
>> >
>> > A. The cam lobes for #1 cylinder will point to 10:00 and 2:00 when
>> > viewed
>> > from the front (cam pulley)of the engine.
>> > Mark
>> >
>> > -----------------------------------------------------------
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>> > with authority, states them to be the views of DENTSPLY
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>> > Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: jon <jon at kenneke.com>
>> To: Sandy Cameron <scameron at compmore.net>
>> Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2007 16:44:37 -0800 (PST)
>> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Offical Rant: Stupid German Engineers! and more
>>
>> > I have a couple of duds here, I think an autopsy is indicated.
>>
>> And, make sure you share pics of the autopsy! This is the internet,
>> afterall. ;)
>>
>> Jon
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: LBaird119 at aol.com
>> To: Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>> Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2007 22:39:56 EST
>> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Relocating battery
>> In a message dated 1/5/2007 8:46:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>> jhsg at sasktel.net writes:
>>
>> > They are similar to the compression ones you are familiar with, without
>> > the compression part- it's just a straight copper sleeve. I've made
>> > ends out of copper pipe before too, just flatten it and install, drill
>> > the end out later for a bolt..
>> >
>>
>> Dad recently made up some HD copper cables, 00 wire. They
>> were straight, solder type but they have a hydraulic hose crimper
>> on the orchard. ;-) Some crimp, some Boeing Surplus shrink tube
>> and he ended up with some really nice looking cables. House type
>> wire in that size is nearly as stiff as rebar!
>> Loren
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: Bryan K Walton <bryankwalton at machlink.com>
>> To: VW Diesel Fans <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
>> Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2007 22:51:32 -0600
>> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend
>> Hi everybody,
>> Its Friday night, about 10:41PM. I'm calling it quits for the
>> evening with regards to my IP swap on this rabbit. I knew this would
>> be a difficult project, but I didn't think I'd have difficulties this
>> early in the process. Argh.
>> Unfortunately, my Rabbit has A/C (not working, yet still
>> there.) So, if I understand Bentley correctly, I need to at least
>> loosen the tension on the A/C compressor tensioner in order to loosen
>> the A/C belt so that I can remove the outer crankshaft pulley. Is
>> this correct? I had no problems getting the alternator belt loose and
>> the alternator out. Do I really need to loosen the tension on the A/C
>> compressor belt? The reason I ask is that I can't get my 17mm wrench
>> (or socket) in there to move the nuts. I don't know how they were
>> ever tightened up the last time.
>> Also, regarding removing the four allen bolts holding the
>> outer crankshaft pulley. The second I try to loosen any of those
>> bolts, the pulley spins. Any suggestions here?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Bryan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: Val Christian <val at mongobird.com>
>> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>> Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 00:27:02 -0500 (EST)
>> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend
>> Bryan,
>>
>> I haven't followed your thread closely, but I'll give a few comments.
>>
>> Sometimes you can pull the crank pulley without untensioning the AC.
>> Pull the four allen bolts. I use air impact, with a mouse. If you
>> don't have that, try a strap wrench on the pulley, to somehow lock
>> it in place. I just always use light air impact. If you don't have
>> impact, try tapping on a small breakerbar to loosen the bolts.
>>
>> Then slide the pulley off the cogbelt pulley. To put it back on,
>> you'll have to stretch it, as you'll be tightening the AC belt
>> as you pull the pulley over the center hub. Slip one of the four
>> bolts in (the one farthest from the AC works best). The ledge
>> on the pulley, and the crank bolt will give you points to lever
>> off of. Don't undo that 12 point bolt. You'll have more work
>> to do otherwise.
>>
>> If the AC belt is tight, then you'll use screwdrivers, prybars and
>> like ilk.
>>
>> For loosening the 17mm AC retainer bolts...I use a combination of
>> combo wrenches, crows foot wrenches and sockets. The exact recipe
>> depends on the particular car. One of them I recall cramming a 1/4"
>> screwdriver against a nut and casting to hold it while I spun it's
>> partner. Get the picture? It's doable, just not in the text book.
>> The German's must have a really long term for whatever is involved.
>>
>> Oh, on those allen head bolts...keep some spares. If they are rusty,
>> and you haven't been pulling your pulley off much recently, you may
>> mung the head. The best thing then is to hammer in slightly larger
>> tools you may have gotten in the same set of tools. Like Torx head
>> tools. This is what they were really made for, until someone invented
>> torx bolts. In a pinch, going up a size might help. One time I put
>> braze material on the allen tool, and filed it down until it was very
>> snug.
>>
>> Copious penetrant gives you something else to blame for slipped tools
>> and skinned knuckles.
>>
>> Use a hammer, and firmly tap the allen bit into the socket head prior
>> to attempting to turn it. If using impact, limit the flow so that you
>> don't exceed about 35 ft lb. Rock the direction back and forth,
>> accepting small motion of the screw at first.
>>
>> Putting back together use neversieze. I use flat washers as well.
>> Torque with the calibrated "brrapp" of the 3/8" impact mouse.
>> If you don't have one, about 15 to 20 ft lbs.
>>
>> Good luck.
>>
>> Val
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > Hi everybody,
>> > Its Friday night, about 10:41PM. I'm calling it quits for the
>> > evening with regards to my IP swap on this rabbit. I knew this would
>> > be a difficult project, but I didn't think I'd have difficulties this
>> > early in the process. Argh.
>> > Unfortunately, my Rabbit has A/C (not working, yet still
>> > there.) So, if I understand Bentley correctly, I need to at least
>> > loosen the tension on the A/C compressor tensioner in order to loosen
>> > the A/C belt so that I can remove the outer crankshaft pulley. Is
>> > this correct? I had no problems getting the alternator belt loose and
>> > the alternator out. Do I really need to loosen the tension on the A/C
>> > compressor belt? The reason I ask is that I can't get my 17mm wrench
>> > (or socket) in there to move the nuts. I don't know how they were
>> > ever tightened up the last time.
>> > Also, regarding removing the four allen bolts holding the
>> > outer crankshaft pulley. The second I try to loosen any of those
>> > bolts, the pulley spins. Any suggestions here?
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> > Bryan
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Vwdiesel mailing list
>> > Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: LBaird119 at aol.com
>> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
>> Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 03:28:30 EST
>> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend
>> I take it you're doing a timing belt at the same time? Otherwise
>> no need to pull the A/C pulley. I've pulled the allens without an air
>> impact but that's usually the easiest way. Just like with CV bolts,
>> scrape them out, tap the socket in, hold pressure and then whack!
>> Slip and you're kinda screwed. You can however use a chisel or such
>> and bit into the face of the bolt and get it loosened or put a slot into
>> it
>> and "impact" it out with a large, steel shank through the handle, blade
>> screwdriver and a hammer.
>> Loren
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: Bryan K Walton <bryankwalton at machlink.com>
>> To: LBaird119 at aol.com
>> Date: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 08:17:04 -0600
>> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Injection Pump Replacement This Weekend
>> On Sat, Jan 06, 2007 at 03:28:30AM -0500, LBaird119 at aol.com wrote:
>> > I take it you're doing a timing belt at the same time? Otherwise
>> > no need to pull the A/C pulley.
>>
>> Well, I thought I probably should, given that I had an IP leak. But
>> also, the manual says I need to. Your saying that it isn't necessary
>> in order to replace the IP?
>>
>> -Bryan
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Vwdiesel mailing list
>> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
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>>
>>
>>
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