[Vwdiesel] crank pulley tool

[Marvin Jansen]

I got this idea from another member and it works great.  A flat bar
about 1/4in thick and 2 inches or so wide with a holes like the
pulley, one big and 4 small.  Bolt this bar on and it holds the crank
while you torque away, no problem.

On 1/24/07, vwdiesel-request at vwfans.com <vwdiesel-request at vwfans.com> wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re: timing belt crank pulley torque (Chuck Carnohan)
>   2. Re: Inspecting injectors (LBaird119 at aol.com)
>   3. Re: timing belt crank pulley torque (82 Diesel Westy)
>   4. New Passat TDI Bentley? (David Cook)
>   5. Re: Alternator mix and match (MLightner)
>   6. Re: Sand blasting - refinishing mags (Terry Briggs)
>   7. Re: Sand blasting - refinishing mags (James Hansen)
>   8. Re: Sand blasting - refinishing mags (James Hansen)
>   9. Re: Alternator mix and match (James Hansen)
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "Chuck Carnohan" <Chuck.Carnohan at itd.idaho.gov>
> To: "mikitka" <mikitka at earthlink.net>, <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 09:55:09 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] timing belt crank pulley torque
>  Justin & Nick,
>
> Nick's Ecodiesel sounds a little different but similar to the engine you
> are dealing with. I can't answer all of your questions but I have dealt
> with this type of pulley on my '84 Rabbit. The engine (1.6NA) came out
> of a wrecked '84 and appears to be a later Canadian VW Remanufacture
> from the paint job (green stripe, nothing else). So, the donor car was
> hit hard on the pass side wheel well and it clamped the chassis to the
> crank while it was running causing the pulley nub to shear and the
> valves to bend. No other damage. I got a new pulley and torqued it down
> with a cheater as hard as I could as I have no torque wrench that goes
> to 148!  This style is the "improved" design over the earlier keyway
> pulley.  I used oil on the threads and about a 1-foot cheater bar with
> my 1/2" breaker bar. I don't remember the size of the bolt but it wasn't
> a 12pt. Engine blocked-up on a table with my son helping me hold it. I
> used heavy fencing wire to tie the clutch plate to the block. Not the
> high-tech methodology but I sure as hell got it tight! With your size
> Justin, I doubt you would have to work as hard at it! I have now driven
> the car for over 10K miles without a problem.
>
> I hope all is well with you and yours!  Good luck with the wrecking
> yard- I maintain that a good junkyard is a license to steal!
>
>
> Chuck Carnohan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]
> On Behalf Of mikitka
> Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 6:02 PM
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] timing belt crank pulley torque
>
> I'm not up 100% on here but I have a 91 Jetta ECO diesel and my pulley
> did come loose and yes it cost me a perfectly good brand new head and
> cam.
>
> If you have the set up I'm thinking about with the twelve point bolt
> then yes that is the torque but my Bentley went farther as to the point
> once you set the torque to the 148 lbft then you have to turn the bolt
> half a turn more. Now that was interesting because I had to block the
> crank with a piece of wood between the crank journal and the block up
> inside the engine to keep it from rotating. At least it is easy to take
> the oil pan off.
>
> Nick
>
>
>
> I am installing the timing belt crank pulley on a 1.6 td.  It is the
> crank style that has a notch in the end of the crank and a nub cast into
> the pulley as a key.  Two questions.  is this a JK or CY engine?  The
> engine has a hydraulic head and my Bentley doesn't cover the hydraulic
> head engines and I want to make sure the torque of 148 ft lbs with lubed
> threads is correct (14 mm bolt).  Is there a different procedure than
> what is in the Bentley manual?  I remember there has been some
> discussion about this style of pulley coming loose and ruining a
> perfectly good crank.
> Justin
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Vwdiesel mailing list
> Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
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>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: LBaird119 at aol.com
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 11:58:54 EST
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Inspecting injectors
> In a message dated 1/23/2007 8:41:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> bdecker001 at centurytel.net writes:
>
> > When removing injectors on your VW diesel the first and most important is
> > to
> > not put torque sideways on the injector. It is easy to crack the head. The
> > second thing I would recommend is to take them to your local diesel injector
> > rebuilder and have him work his magic. It was money well spent for me.
> > Smoother running and more power.
> > Brian Decker
> >
>
>  I'll second that in triplicate!  Just remember...  PUSH when
> removing an injector (on a transverse engine) or just push
> TOWARD the head.  Pulling is where you're more likely to
> crack the thin area around the outboard threads of the
> injector area.  Impact gun is the preferred removal, no
> lateral force.  When torquing in, same thing, only it's safest
> to just be fully aware of any lean to your tools.  Keep them
> square to the injector, no tilting leaning or wobbling.
>     Loren
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: 82 Diesel Westy <dieselwesty at yahoo.com>
> To: Chuck Carnohan <Chuck.Carnohan at itd.idaho.gov>, mikitka <mikitka at earthlink.net>, vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 10:22:22 -0800 (PST)
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] timing belt crank pulley torque
> Nice one Chuck, I like your junkyard motto!!!!
>
> Bryan from NJ
>
> --- Chuck Carnohan <Chuck.Carnohan at itd.idaho.gov>
> wrote:
>
> >  Justin & Nick,
> >
> > Nick's Ecodiesel sounds a little different but
> > similar to the engine you
> > are dealing with. I can't answer all of your
> > questions but I have dealt
> > with this type of pulley on my '84 Rabbit. The
> > engine (1.6NA) came out
> > of a wrecked '84 and appears to be a later Canadian
> > VW Remanufacture
> > from the paint job (green stripe, nothing else). So,
> > the donor car was
> > hit hard on the pass side wheel well and it clamped
> > the chassis to the
> > crank while it was running causing the pulley nub to
> > shear and the
> > valves to bend. No other damage. I got a new pulley
> > and torqued it down
> > with a cheater as hard as I could as I have no
> > torque wrench that goes
> > to 148!  This style is the "improved" design over
> > the earlier keyway
> > pulley.  I used oil on the threads and about a
> > 1-foot cheater bar with
> > my 1/2" breaker bar. I don't remember the size of
> > the bolt but it wasn't
> > a 12pt. Engine blocked-up on a table with my son
> > helping me hold it. I
> > used heavy fencing wire to tie the clutch plate to
> > the block. Not the
> > high-tech methodology but I sure as hell got it
> > tight! With your size
> > Justin, I doubt you would have to work as hard at
> > it! I have now driven
> > the car for over 10K miles without a problem.
> >
> > I hope all is well with you and yours!  Good luck
> > with the wrecking
> > yard- I maintain that a good junkyard is a license
> > to steal!
> >
> >
> > Chuck Carnohan
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com
> > [mailto:vwdiesel-bounces at vwfans.com]
> > On Behalf Of mikitka
> > Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 6:02 PM
> > To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] timing belt crank pulley
> > torque
> >
> > I'm not up 100% on here but I have a 91 Jetta ECO
> > diesel and my pulley
> > did come loose and yes it cost me a perfectly good
> > brand new head and
> > cam.
> >
> > If you have the set up I'm thinking about with the
> > twelve point bolt
> > then yes that is the torque but my Bentley went
> > farther as to the point
> > once you set the torque to the 148 lbft then you
> > have to turn the bolt
> > half a turn more. Now that was interesting because I
> > had to block the
> > crank with a piece of wood between the crank journal
> > and the block up
> > inside the engine to keep it from rotating. At least
> > it is easy to take
> > the oil pan off.
> >
> > Nick
> >
> >
> >
> > I am installing the timing belt crank pulley on a
> > 1.6 td.  It is the
> > crank style that has a notch in the end of the crank
> > and a nub cast into
> > the pulley as a key.  Two questions.  is this a JK
> > or CY engine?  The
> > engine has a hydraulic head and my Bentley doesn't
> > cover the hydraulic
> > head engines and I want to make sure the torque of
> > 148 ft lbs with lubed
> > threads is correct (14 mm bolt).  Is there a
> > different procedure than
> > what is in the Bentley manual?  I remember there has
> > been some
> > discussion about this style of pulley coming loose
> > and ruining a
> > perfectly good crank.
> > Justin
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: David Cook <vwdieselbunny at yahoo.com>
> To: audi-vw-diesels at yahoogroups.com, diesel list <vwdiesel at vwfans.com>
> Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 12:43:38 -0800 (PST)
> Subject: [Vwdiesel] New Passat TDI Bentley?
> Is there a Bentley that covers *all* B5s?  I may be
> working on replacing a timing belt on a 2005 Passat
> and was thinking about buying the Bentley for it.  In
> the future I'd like to get a '04 or '05 TDI Passat, so
> I'd like one that would cover that as well.
>
> I've seen the new Bentley for the whole B5 line, but
> it doesn't mention the TDI engine as one that is
> covered, however on a screen shot of sample pages, it
> looks like there may be some coverage of this engine.
>
> Does anyone have this manual and can comment one way
> or another?
>
> Here is a link to what I'm talking about:
> <http://www.bentleypublishers.com/gallery.htm?code=vp05&seqnum=3>
>
> Thanks,
>
> David
>
> David Cook
> Red '86 Cabriolet Diesel Powered
> Red '90 g60 Corrado
> Brown and White '78 Westy Campmobile "Bear"
> and others in various states of disrepair
> Pictures here: community.webshots.com/user/superdave5599
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
> Don't get soaked.  Take a quick peak at the forecast
> with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
> http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: MLightner <mikel at buncombe.main.nc.us>
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 21:17:04 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Alternator mix and match
> Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 11:54:31 EST
> From: LBaird119 at aol.com
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel]Alternator mix and match
>
> >  Sounds like you're on the right path but I'd suspect a
> >different amperage of alternator could just as easily
> >have different rotors(?) as well as stators.
>
> Maybe just wishful thinking, but they don't have anything obviously different, including the size of what little wiring I can see, and since not much current has to run through
> the rotor, it maybe that the same sized one is still used for higher current alternators At any rate, the 65 A armature paired with the 90 A stator seems to work as well as the original combo, ie , it's charging the battery at around 13.5 VDc; plus, it hasn't eaten another belt yet :)
>
> >  How about just using new bearings?
>
> That was the original plan, but I couldn't find the rear bearing locally, so instead I swapped the stator windings assy. and once I get the new bearings installed on the old rotor, I'll swap everything back, then get some new bearings for the 65A one and also add a W terminal to it.
>
> >I wouldn't go to all
> >the trouble of tearing one down just to put some "better"
> >used bearings in there.
>
> It ate two belts in two weeks, I had to do something and, since the units both came apart without much trouble, that seemed the least painful way to go without having to leave the car parked again for a couple days.
>
> >If things are worn sloppy how about
> >a little JB weld to tighten up the bearing to case fit?
>
> I like that idea, I was thinking along those lines.
>
> > I had a good 90A with a spun bearing surface on the shaft.  I'd
> >intended to have it turned and a smaller ID bearing put in.
> >Sure enough the local rebuilder has the bearings in stock.
> >One of the uncles on the orchard had decided it needed
> >thrown away.
>
> Ouch, some people have no idea of the value of good junk  :)
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Terry Briggs <vbriggs at stny.rr.com>
> To: vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2007 00:46:14 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Sand blasting - refinishing mags
> Powder coating is EXTREMELY durable, I have a friend who has repainted
> his enduro race bike several times and he had to do it a few times a
> season, he had it powder coated last season and it still looks like
> new, no chips, nothing. Not very expensive if you do the work getting
> the old paint off first.
> On Jan 23, 2007, at 5:03 AM, William J Toensing wrote:
>
> > I haven't tried this but wouldn't powdercoating work even better? I
> > understand powdercoating is susposed to be much more durable.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> >
> >
> Third Wheel engineering
> Custom Design and Fabrication
> 2576 King Circle
> Corning, New York 14830
> Vbriggs at stny.rr.com
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net>
> To: William J Toensing <toensing at wildblue.net>
> Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2007 00:11:57 -0600
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Sand blasting - refinishing mags
> It is, but if you tap a curb with the rim, it isn't tough enough to not
> scrape up, and retouches with paint just don't look right on powder coat.
> That said, powder coat is tougher than a pig's nose,and would work well,
> just that any road rash that tends to scrape paint, would also scrape
> powder coat on a wheel.
> On a tubular chassis, powder coat is absolutely stellar. I've seen a few
> stock cars and a few street rods with powder coated chassis, and it just
> looks soooooo good.
> Then there's us street stockers that just slog some more tremclad on
> cause we know it's going to get scraped off again anyway...
> -james
>
> William J Toensing wrote:
> > I haven't tried this but wouldn't powdercoating work even better? I understand powdercoating is susposed to be much more durable.
> > _______________________________________________
> > Vwdiesel mailing list
> > Vwdiesel at vwfans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/vwdiesel
> >
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net>
> To: mikitka <mikitka at earthlink.net>
> Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2007 00:20:16 -0600
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Sand blasting - refinishing mags
>
> > There seems to be a demand for powder coating around here. If I had the
> > funds I would set something up. Problem is to get an oven big enough to put
> > large items in can get expensive.
> > Nick
>
> A powdercoating shop in Saskatoon just had a natural gas explosion on
> Friday in their easy bake oven. Not cool, took out 2 buildings, and 3
> guys that were in the powdercoat building were unharmed- said an oven
> door passed within 3 feet of them as it left the building.  Big oven, I
> think this is the place that was doing complete chassis and stuff.
> -j
>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: James Hansen <jhsg at sasktel.net>
> To: MLightner <mikel at buncombe.main.nc.us>
> Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2007 00:46:23 -0600
> Subject: Re: [Vwdiesel] Alternator mix and match
>
> >
> >     1) how hard is it to remove the bearings from one of these
> > armatures? I have a bearing puller I've used before on electric motors,
> > but it seems there was more clearance behind the bearings on the ones
> > I've previously used it on - just wondering if there's any special
> > tricks that might come in handy during non-destructive disassembly.
>
> Don't even think about re-using a bearing you have pulled off using a
> puller- unless you can grab the inner race, not the outer.  Grabbing the
> outer race with any force brinells the race, guaranteeing later failure.
> These bearings are typically 5 bucks or less. false economy to try to
> save one.
>
> Mind the clearance on the plastic insulator (on the end bearing) that
> was loose.  It has to take up the space, and needs replacing if worn,
> except at times the case wears, so be"wear" of that...
> but it is an insulator, so don't fudge it together with shims and stuff
> if it may not still function as one. (an insulator that is)
>
> >
> >     2) The two armatures look identical except for the smaller rear
> > bearing, could it be that they are indeed the same?
> >
> >     3) From reading in the archives and elsewhere I've gathered that to
> > add a W terminal to an alternator you just need to solder a wire  to the
> > Y junction of the three stator coils, can anyone confirm this?
>
> Or is it to a single diode?
> -james
>
>
>
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>
>